Massive car stereo in home

[Alexilitah]

I've had thoughts on this/looked n searched...equipment I'm dealing with is 2/12"JLw6s on an old skool Alpine MRV-1507amp(2-channel MOSFET monoblock)....huge (13lbs) and wildly UNDER RATED amplifier, what I'm wondering is if I get a car battery, truck alturnator, and a belt drive electric motor, if I could use the electric motor to turn alturnator enough to create the charge needed in battery to play endless hours of movie on SUPER SURROUND!!!! (when a granade is thrown in movie, I want the couch to jump)...that and i have all this sitting around from last car and it won't fit in my truck! Too much money into it to just have sitting around, or be hooked up the wrong way.. Would this work? what am I missing? Also thought of adding a 3farred cap for digital read out of power???

 

[RealBeast]

If you want to use the amp in the house get a power converter that has the specs to do it, you don't want half a car engine in the house.

 

[Alexilitah]

Any ideas on brands or types? Size needed? Would have to say 1500w RMS

 

[mlga91]

You just need a good power supply, those works with 12 v, you can actually try with a desktop computer psu to test it, putting a motor to drive an alternator will consume much more power than the one needed.

 

[mdocod]

Various Advice:

Skip using the car amp it's not worth the hassle and introduces a bunch of pointless conversion. (Bucking down to 12V only to have the amp transform it back up again)

Use a modern dedicated switching amp that is powered from 120V, like a Crown XLS series. They start at ~1000W for ~$300 and are ideal for powering HT subs. There are lots of modern sound reinforcement amps in this class but I think the XLS offers the best balance of features, quality, and price for most peoples big-bang home theater builds.

Understand that drivers are only part of the acoustic coupling equation. When we move tight suspension rugged drivers with low efficiency long excursion motors into large rooms, they aren't going to produce a particularly impressive result unless their acoustic coupling is modified. My advice would be to sim up transmissions line, tapered transmission line (horn), and "tapped" horn and/or tapped transmission line designs for the drivers you have.

The 10" driver pictured on the left here....

Is horn loaded...

The result is efficiency and SPL capability similar to an 18" pro-sound sub in a similar size reflex box. I power that with the XLS1000.

 

[RealBeast]

While I agree that it may be cheaper to just buy a good receiver with built in amp, any high output industrial converter like the RSP-1500 for about $350 from HERE would work. You can input 120V and output 12V at up to 125amps (1500W) maximum. Larger sizes are more expensive as this is not a common need other than in industrial applications.

I have an inexpensive Yamaha receiver and 4 bookshelf speakers plus a center speaker and a 1200W Velodyne subwoofer and I can shake the entire house, you can feel it in the shower 80 feet away. That's my computer sound output from an optical Toslink cable to the receiver. I think that is a more practical approach, but if you want to experiment just be careful to adequately insulate all connections so you don't fry any pets or family.

 

[mdocod]

$350 for a 12V power supply to use a "900W" car-amp.

$300 for a "1000W" Crown Pro-sound amp.

This decision should be pretty simple. Use the alpine in a car, or sell it.

 

[RealBeast]

$350 for a 12V power supply to use a "900W" car-amp.

$300 for a "1000W" Crown Pro-sound amp.

This decision should be pretty simple. Use the alpine in a car, or sell it.

Gotta agree, makes more sense to sell the car unit and use something that is intended for indoor use.