I was jumping my alphacool pump and radiator from my motherboard using a 24 pin jumper. I had my pump plugged into the fan controller which still had the mounting bracket attached to it and since the power cord wasn't very long I had to prop it up close to the fan controller. The screw sticking out contacted one of the ports on the fan controller and it instantly shut off and doesn't seem to work anymore. Is this something that would kill a fan controller? Is there a way to reset it? Would that put my other hardware at risk? Thanks.
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[SOLVED] Metal screw contacted fan controller 4 pin port and it doesn't seem to work anymore
- Thread starter Victel
- Start date
Solution
- Dec 2, 2009
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1: Possible depending one what actually shorted. power to ground, probably not but it may have blown a fuse...
2: If its a fuse then it will need to be replaced. If its a breaker you can try unplugging the pc for half an hour AFTER you have cleared out the short.
3: Again it depends on what was actually shorted but I'm guessing "probably not" based on your description.
My power supply still turns on. When it happened the fans and pump just turned off. and the PSU remained on. That really is a harsh thing to happen by me simply touching the fan controller with metal. It's especially bad it occured to a $50 corsair one that came with my PC case. I'll need to replace it then. Will this work:
Amazon.com: Chassis Fan Hub CPU Cooling | 10 Port 12 V SATA to Fan-Header with 4 Pin PWM Controller | Dedicated Supply from PSU to Link Multiple Points: Industrial & Scientific
I don't need any of the stupid RBG controls or anything.
It will work, plus it's a powered hub so it's not just a fancy splitter.
OP, shorting electronics do result in varying results. I once accidentally shorted a GPU (still plugged in), but the only thing that died was a USB header on the mainboard, also shorted a fan/RGB hub by trying to plug in both 3-pin fan header and its Molex connector. Resulted in dead fan LED and nothing else.
(Shorted, as in, I saw electric arcing in both cases).
If OP have fan controller like mentioned in links above, it is simple powered PWM splitter. It have nothing to burn which would not become visible to naked eye. I would bet on dead PWM regulator output in motherboard for socket where shorted "controller" was connected.
By the way it would help do disconnect mentioned controller and test socked with another PWM fan. If it works then controller is damaged. If not, then problem is in motherboard behind socket. In second case OP can use different motherboard PWM fan socket - if his motherboard have any.
By the way it would help do disconnect mentioned controller and test socked with another PWM fan. If it works then controller is damaged. If not, then problem is in motherboard behind socket. In second case OP can use different motherboard PWM fan socket - if his motherboard have any.
It just seems like a million things have gone wrong since trying to set up this custom liquid loop. It seems like my entire fan controller is dead now. It's not a complete loss though since it's a stupid corsair fan speed and rgb fancy one that I don't even need. At least that's all that went bad.
Good observation but my motherboard wasn't plugged into a power source. Only my fan controller was plugged into my PSU. It was plugged into the motherboard though. I guess I should have mentioned this. I apologize
Is it possible for it to be the motherboard when it wasn't plugged into the power supply when the part stopped working?
I was using this:
Amazon.com: Corsair iCUE Commander PRO Smart RGB Lighting and Fan Speed Controller: Computers & Accessories
Well, at least this controller is not a simple splitter anymore. Checked your original post above. Good news - motherboard is fine. Bad news - controller is fried. If you say that controller remain silent, it may be fried internal power rail fuse on best case. Do you remember which port you shorted? Though seems there is no way to fix this controller without repairman involving.
Obviously none of ports work because main power rail inside controller is now disconnected somehow. I'll bet to SMD fuse on circuit board.
Second controller from Amazon seems is PWM splitter, powered from SATA cable. It just works, however all fans that you plug into it, must be PWM controlled.
Second controller from Amazon seems is PWM splitter, powered from SATA cable. It just works, however all fans that you plug into it, must be PWM controlled.
With Amazon controller you mentioned you can power fans with 12V through SATA power connector. Without control cable from CPU_FAN socket on motherboard connected they will run on full speed though. However it is not an issue - when you will put all together, fan speed will be automatically adjusted with CPU fan/pump speed.
Also if your motherboard have separate chassis fan PWM socket, you can control pump from motherboard and case fans from CHA_FAN socket. The you can separately control pump and case fan speeds.
Why not power fans directly through PWM socket on controller? Amazon controller is PWM splitter with single RPM sensor pin in red PWM connector. Other PWM connectors have only PWM fan speed control pin. Cable from CPU_FAN motherboard socket have only 2 wires. I believe one of them is RPM speed control and second - RPM sensor. Which indicate that 12 V and common ground for both connected fans come from SATA connector. Make sense - would be stupid to allow SATA and fan socket voltage cross connection with possible fiery issues in case of "smart" fan sockets (ones with both PWM and DC control support). Or fry CPU_FAN socket DC controller due to overload. In short - they may get power from one of PWM sockets, but it will be brute hack with no more than 2-3 additional fan support without magical smoke on motherboard. And then you can't power other fans through SATA connector due to same fiery issue. Don't do that.
Also if your motherboard have separate chassis fan PWM socket, you can control pump from motherboard and case fans from CHA_FAN socket. The you can separately control pump and case fan speeds.
Why not power fans directly through PWM socket on controller? Amazon controller is PWM splitter with single RPM sensor pin in red PWM connector. Other PWM connectors have only PWM fan speed control pin. Cable from CPU_FAN motherboard socket have only 2 wires. I believe one of them is RPM speed control and second - RPM sensor. Which indicate that 12 V and common ground for both connected fans come from SATA connector. Make sense - would be stupid to allow SATA and fan socket voltage cross connection with possible fiery issues in case of "smart" fan sockets (ones with both PWM and DC control support). Or fry CPU_FAN socket DC controller due to overload. In short - they may get power from one of PWM sockets, but it will be brute hack with no more than 2-3 additional fan support without magical smoke on motherboard. And then you can't power other fans through SATA connector due to same fiery issue. Don't do that.
- Dec 26, 2012
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Start please by explaining this. Because by my logic, a 24pin jumper would mean the mains was not connected to the motherboard, but to a jumper connection. The pump would run if you shorted green/black and turned on the psu, but nothing else would.
I don't know what you mean exactly. I have a 24 pin plugged into the PSU instead of the motherboard so I can run the pump connected with SATA without the motherboard being plugged in. I apparently fried out the fan controller on accident. My replacement linkd above appears to have worked since the pump now runs. Unfortunately my fan corsair fan controller still doesn't work.
We with @Karadjgne understood that you are trying to test your custom loop or AIO pump without connecting to motherboard directly from PSU. And PSU is not connected to the rest of computer at this time. 24-pin cable is plugged into PSU with other end of cable dangling in air. Actually you would share a photo of your testing setup.
About Corsair fan controller. It now depends what you shorted with a screw. If short was in one of fan PWM connectors between +12V and common ground and 12V input from SATA connector have SMD fuse on circuit board then it is 100% repairable. Replace a fuse. Short between RPM sensor and +12V in PWM controller is much worse because in such way you may fry controller chip inside fan controller. Which automatically reduce your controller into a donor board, because fuss with Corsair to get a new chip will cost you more than a new controller. Same if you shorted +5V with one of data pins in one of USB connectors. But don't despair - give controller to repairman/repair service and describe in detail what happened. It most likely is still fixable.
Unintentionally did read "alphacool pump" as "alcohol pump" which in my distorted imagination turned "my alphacool pump and radiator" part into a vision of portable moonshine machine instead of custom loop 😀
- Dec 26, 2012
- 30,760
- 4,580
- 142,790
Well, it was a direct quote from the opening post. So...
My point is this. IF you had the 24pin mains unplugged from the motherboard, and plugged by jumper to just the fan controller, then that's the center of the spider web.
From there, it's all dependent on exactly what was also plugged into the web. Fans, motherboard fan port, USB, motherboard lighting port, psu, pump etc.
You will have to try each individually. IF there was no connection to any motherboard port, then the motherboard is safe, IF you had the fans unplugged, those are safe. IF the only things actually plugged into the fan controller were the psu and pump and rad fans, then that's All that could possibly be bunk.
For testing purposes, with a side panel off, you'll not need fans. So you can hook the pump directly to psu, bypassing the fan controller. Any fans will go directly to motherboard ports to test etc. The radiator can act passively for a short period just fine.
It's just a matter of eliminating 1 potential problem at a time until you are only left with one possibility.
My point is this. IF you had the 24pin mains unplugged from the motherboard, and plugged by jumper to just the fan controller, then that's the center of the spider web.
From there, it's all dependent on exactly what was also plugged into the web. Fans, motherboard fan port, USB, motherboard lighting port, psu, pump etc.
You will have to try each individually. IF there was no connection to any motherboard port, then the motherboard is safe, IF you had the fans unplugged, those are safe. IF the only things actually plugged into the fan controller were the psu and pump and rad fans, then that's All that could possibly be bunk.
For testing purposes, with a side panel off, you'll not need fans. So you can hook the pump directly to psu, bypassing the fan controller. Any fans will go directly to motherboard ports to test etc. The radiator can act passively for a short period just fine.
It's just a matter of eliminating 1 potential problem at a time until you are only left with one possibility.
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