Sep 12, 2020
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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pZ6nWb

Here is my current list of items to build. Mostly purchased but not put together yet.

Just lacking a SSD which will be easy but havent figured out a CPU cooler yet for this setup.

Please give me some constructive criticism about what is good, bad, needed, etc.

I am open to returning some parts. There are "warnings" with my build that I am not sure I need to be worried about regarding an extra 4pin 12v connector that my mobo has but my psu doesnt have. I kind of dont know much about my psu (gigabyte g750h) but got a good deal on it).

Thank you guys! Very much appreciated!
 
The rule of thumb is you can use a 20 pin PSU on a 24 pin MB, as long as the PSU has a 4 pin cable for the CPU.

That said, you're relying FAR too much on PCPartPicker for info. For instance it shows the far superior (and cheaper) SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750W PSU, but shows no vendors with it in stock. And this is despite them showing vendors like Amazon, but not even acknowledging that they have it in stock, and at a pretty good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-750FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073GWKDVM

BTW, this is the PSU review site you should refer to to vet ANY PSU for a high end build. They are simply THE most stringent and trustworthy. https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/07/10/seasonic-focus-plus-750-gold-750w-power-supply/6/

Other than that, don't pay the insane price of $1200 for a mere 1080 Ti just because it comes with a water cooler. The soon to be released 3080 is only going to be $700, and will stomp it easily. The new air coolers on the 3000 series are said to be very effective too.

As far as CPU coolers go, I'm a big fan of high quality air units. They are much easier to clean and maintain, and can be nearly as effective as the best AIO water coolers. If you combine them with a well ventilated case, there's really no reason to go water.

As far as the SSD goes, not sure what types you're looking at, but with as much money as you're wanting to throw away on inferior parts, you should probably be considering a 2TB m.2 drive instead, and get the more affordable parts I suggested. No reason you can't have your cake and eat it too if you have that much to spend.
 
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I was about to post to wait before buying this but I saw that you bought all the parts. You did a mistake. A big one. Buying that 1200 dollars 1080TI. Why did you do that? You can get a used 1080TI for 150 dollars on ebay. Yes you heard me. 150 dollars.

If I were you I would return everything. Yes everything. With that 2000 dollars you can get an INTEL 10900K with a better board, 32GB of RAM and a RTX 3080. For the same amount of money of the system you just bought.

The 1080TI is not worth 1200 dollars. It's worth under 499 now because of the RTX 3070.
 
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Here is what I was able to put together fast with that budget. You add that 699 dollars GTX 3080 in that system when it comes out and it's the same price as the one you built with that 1080TI. Can you see the difference? i5 9600k to i9 10900k top of the line Intel CPU with the best air cooler.
32GB of RAM instead of 16. A 850 Watts RMX gold which is the same price as the 750 Watts so why not.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($549.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($134.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($144.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $1218.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-13 04:40 EDT-0400
 
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Sep 12, 2020
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The rule of thumb is you can use a 20 pin PSU on a 24 pin MB, as long as the PSU has a 4 pin cable for the CPU.

That said, you're relying FAR too much on PCPartPicker for info. For instance it shows the far superior (and cheaper) SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750W PSU, but shows no vendors with it in stock. And this is despite them showing vendors like Amazon, but not even acknowledging that they have it in stock, and at a pretty good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-750FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073GWKDVM

BTW, this is the PSU review site you should refer to to vet ANY PSU for a high end build. They are simply THE most stringent and trustworthy. https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/07/10/seasonic-focus-plus-750-gold-750w-power-supply/6/

Other than that, don't pay the insane price of $1200 for a mere 1080 Ti just because it comes with a water cooler. The soon to be released 3080 is only going to be $700, and will stomp it easily. The new air coolers on the 3000 series are said to be very effective too.

As far as CPU coolers go, I'm a big fan of high quality air units. They are much easier to clean and maintain, and can be nearly as effective as the best AIO water coolers. If you combine them with a well ventilated case, there's really no reason to go water.

As far as the SSD goes, not sure what types you're looking at, but with as much money as you're wanting to throw away on inferior parts, you should probably be considering a 2TB m.2 drive instead, and get the more affordable parts I suggested. No reason you can't have your cake and eat it too if you have that much to spend.

Yes, partspicker was all I had at the time because I was brand new with this building stuff, as you can see haha.

I appreciate your input. I need to sell my PSU back on Ebay and get another one it seems. I did rush into that because of low price.

Also, I only paid $350 for the EVGA 1080ti 11gb GPU here locally from a guy. So I figured I got a good deal on that. And it came with a cooler so I didnt have to buy one separately.

Regarding CPU, I was told that this Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler would be good for my setup. Any thoughts on that?

And I assume it is better to get a M.2 NVME SSD first as my primary storage (because its faster), something like this, Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME SSD, and I can always get a 2.5" SSD later if needed, does that sound about right?
 
Sep 12, 2020
5
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I was about to post to wait before buying this but I saw that you bought all the parts. You did a mistake. A big one. Buying that 1200 dollars 1080TI. Why did you do that? You can get a used 1080TI for 150 dollars on ebay. Yes you heard me. 150 dollars.

If I were you I would return everything. Yes everything. With that 2000 dollars you can get an INTEL 10900K with a better board, 32GB of RAM and a RTX 3080. For the same amount of money of the system you just bought.

The 1080TI is not worth 1200 dollars. It's worth under 499 now because of the RTX 3070.

I bought the 1080ti sc2 hybrid from a guy locally for $350, not brand new as partspicker.com has stated. And I bought it for a good price and dont have to buy a cooler for my gpu, so i figured i killed 2 birds with 1 stone.
 
Yes, partspicker was all I had at the time because I was brand new with this building stuff, as you can see haha.

I appreciate your input. I need to sell my PSU back on Ebay and get another one it seems. I did rush into that because of low price.

Also, I only paid $350 for the EVGA 1080ti 11gb GPU here locally from a guy. So I figured I got a good deal on that. And it came with a cooler so I didnt have to buy one separately.

Regarding CPU, I was told that this Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler would be good for my setup. Any thoughts on that?

And I assume it is better to get a M.2 NVME SSD first as my primary storage (because its faster), something like this, Silicon Power A80 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME SSD, and I can always get a 2.5" SSD later if needed, does that sound about right?
That price on the PSU you listed isn't exactly low when you can get a way better one cheaper. For future reference, retain what you learned here, including not misleading people by listing high part prices with zero mention of how much you actually paid. Repeating that kind of thing will lead to getting your threads ignored.

As far as drives go, I'm a big fan of going with well known, trusted brands, vs the cheapest ones.
 
Sep 12, 2020
5
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That price on the PSU you listed isn't exactly low when you can get a way better one cheaper. For future reference, retain what you learned here, including not misleading people by listing high part prices with zero mention of how much you actually paid. Repeating that kind of thing will lead to getting your threads ignored.

As far as drives go, I'm a big fan of going with well known, trusted brands, vs the cheapest ones.

How are you figuring I am misleading people with how much I paid ? Never have i did this and with the partspicker link, it lists the MSRP..and not the price that I paid for the part. Sorry if it seemed that way but no way was an an attempt to mislead people.
 
How are you figuring I am misleading people with how much I paid ? Never have i did this and with the partspicker link, it lists the MSRP..and not the price that I paid for the part. Sorry if it seemed that way but no way was an an attempt to mislead people.
Doesn't matter whether it's intentional or not. When you list parts you said you've bought showing a price, without mentioning you did not pay that price, yes, it's misleading. Just common sense if you think about it. You're not seeing it from our point of view.

It also wastes our time because it leads us to believe you have tons of money to spend, which can cause us to give advice on buying something you in reality can't even afford. Get responsible and think about what you post if you want accurate advice. It's as simple as that.
 
Sep 12, 2020
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Doesn't matter whether it's intentional or not. When you list parts you said you've bought showing a price, without mentioning you did not pay that price, yes, it's misleading. Just common sense if you think about it. You're not seeing it from our point of view.

It also wastes our time because it leads us to believe you have tons of money to spend, which can cause us to give advice on buying something you in reality can't even afford. Get responsible and think about what you post if you want accurate advice. It's as simple as that.

Get responsible? Really?
I guess from your perspective, that's your opinion.

I will tell you from mine, that when I see a MSRP next to a part, I dont automatically assume that's what a person paid. THAT seems like common knowledge...and something an experienced user should be understanding.

I made an error in your eyes. Forgive me. Yes, I should have clarified regarding the prices I paid so no one was thinking I overpaid. I'm sure it happens, especially with noobs such as myself. It seems to be silly to act overly harsh to someone over the internet over such a thing.
 
I will tell you from mine, that when I see a MSRP next to a part, I dont automatically assume that's what a person paid. THAT seems like common knowledge...and something an experienced user should be understanding.

I made an error in your eyes. Forgive me. Yes, I should have clarified regarding the prices I paid so no one was thinking I overpaid. I'm sure it happens, especially with noobs such as myself. It seems to be silly to act overly harsh to someone over the internet over such a thing.
The thing is, you don't exactly scream experienced user, otherwise, would you really need to seek such advice? So I don't get why you'd even speculate how an experienced PC user would think.

Your ending by saying you should have clarified makes the first part kinda redundant to say because clearly it contradicts it. Anyway, I don't typically get caught up giving advice to people that argue common sense when asking for help, so from now on, I will leave that to someone else in your case. Nothing I said was "silly" or "overly harsh", you just viewed it selfishly.
 
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