Mobo capacitor broken off

vanhalen991

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Jan 5, 2016
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Hi all, I recently bought a new computer. I wanted to sell my old one, but after unninstalling CPU fan and GPU (im reutilizing both) I realized there's one capacitor missing, that I probably broke off after that.
I reinstalled WIndows 10 without a problem, It loads normally, temperatures on HWmonitor are fine, but if I try to open a game, I get a BSOD saying: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR. After that, I restarted, ant this time i got the same error after trying to open HWMonitor.

I guess it's because of that capacitor missing because it used to work fine. My question is, is it possible to fix this? how? If it's possible to get a new capacitor to solder it by myself, how can I know what type it is and where I can find the exact capacitor? And, is it possible that any component get damaged after this? I only ran the PC with that capacitor missing 30 minutes or so, and stopped after second same BSOD.

Here's a photo of the mobo:
wTDziui.jpg

wTDziui

As you can see, there's a capacitor missing, just below the processor, on the left.

Thanks all guys
 
Solution
Your best option may be to take it to a local electronics repair shop. From my experience of replacing blown caps on a tv's power supply, and also on a computer monitor's power supply is that they originally used a high temperature solder which my regular soldering iron wouldn't melt. I do have a high temp soldering gun which did the trick. You will also need some flux, which is a paste that allows the new solder to adhere to the capacitors leads and the motherboard socket. If you are experienced in soldering, yes you can do it yourself. You didn't say where you live, but in the US, I was able to order my replacements caps from Radio Shack online. Since I live in a large city (Houston, TX) I also have several electronic supply...
Yeah it's possible if you have a soldering iron and decent skills with it. You need to find a capacitor of the same capacitance as the previous one, preferably of the same type. If you live in a city there's a good chance someone can do it for you for a little bit of cash.
 
The markings on the capacitors should tell you everything you need to attempt locating an exact or equivalent replacement. Since it is a through-hole part, putting in a new one should not be too difficult, though getting the broken cap's leads out could be troublesome.

I would not expect losing one capacitor out of a dozen on the core voltage to cause issues, so I am guessing the missing cap must be on some other voltage that cannot spare one.
 


Thanks for your answer, that's what I was thinking, but is it possible that the CPU has been damaged after those 2 BSOD?
 


I set everything to default on the BIOS before getting those errors, should I try to undervoltage CPU/RAM?
BTW, im actually running it with the integrated graphics of the i7 2600 K.

 
The missing capacitor will cause increased ripple voltage on affected rail(s) and that could be what is causing your crashes. Reducing clocks and voltages won't help that by much.

If you really did knock the capacitor out while removing your HSF, it should be lying somewhere nearby wherever you did that. You should try finding it, starting from looking around and behind the motherboard - you do not want to 'discover' the missing capacitor because it rolled around, shorted something out and killed a bunch of components in the process.
 

I checked some photos of the same mobo (P8Z68-V PRO) and it has 5 capacitors just below the processor, in my mb, there's a hole where it is supposed to be a capacitor.

I checked the case, even shaked it but cant find it, I feel so stupid :pfff:
 
How long ago did you remove the heatsink - hours, days? Look around the area where the computer was when you worked on it. As suggested by Invaliderror, you should take everything apart and remove the motherboard to see if it is behind it, sort of wedged in so shaking the case didn't cause it to come loose. You can solder in a new one, but you will need to know the specifications of it. If you absolutely can't find the old one, maybe someone here on the forum with the exact same motherboard can look and tell you the specs.
 


I'd say possible but very unlikely. Modern CPUs have fail safes for when voltage is out of range. Chances are much higher the system would BSOD before damaging the CPU.
 
Thanks all for your answers, I will try to solder it by myself or find someone with more experienced. I can't find the old capacitor, and btw, I prefer to buy a new one. You know where can I get one? And could anyone with the same mobo tell me the type of capacitor missing? could it be the same capacitor as the other 4? (image at first post)

thanks guys
 
Your best option may be to take it to a local electronics repair shop. From my experience of replacing blown caps on a tv's power supply, and also on a computer monitor's power supply is that they originally used a high temperature solder which my regular soldering iron wouldn't melt. I do have a high temp soldering gun which did the trick. You will also need some flux, which is a paste that allows the new solder to adhere to the capacitors leads and the motherboard socket. If you are experienced in soldering, yes you can do it yourself. You didn't say where you live, but in the US, I was able to order my replacements caps from Radio Shack online. Since I live in a large city (Houston, TX) I also have several electronic supply retailers that have capacitors, they just didn't have all of the ones I needed in stock at the time, so it was quicker to order online (I needed about 10 total for my 2 projects).

As far as which capacitor you need it is "probably" the same as the other 4, but I can't be sure about that. Hopefully someone else can confirm that. Good Luck!
 
Solution

The "high temperature solder" you mention here is called lead-free, such as 96/3.5/0.5 SnAgCu. Most lead-free solders melt around 230C vs 180C for lead-tin alloys. There are special lead-free alloys that melt at temperatures as low as 130C but they are far more expensive.

The reason why companies use lead-free solder even though it is more difficult to work with is because lead has been classified as a hazardous substance and its use in new consumer electronics banned in many developed countries.

In most applications, the only reason for using tin-based lead-free solders is because it is the next cheapest solder type after tin-lead that meets RoHS and other environmental protection requirements. The higher melting point is just something manufacturers have to put up with unless they want to spend several times more on lower temperature alloys using bismuth or indium.
 
Good info, Invalid Error. When I got ready to install the new caps, I just used some generic Radio Shack solder that I had lying around (don't know the composition, it is downstairs in my messy garage and I am too lazy to go down there right now), and was able to use my lower powered soldering iron to complete the install. That has been about 2+ years ago and everything is still working fine. But now I have a different LED TV that doesn't always want to turn on on the first few tries, so I may be back in the repair business before long.
 


Thank god lead is banned. It is seriously dangerous and while it's effects may not instant or obvious they are incredibly crippling. Brain damage, hearing loss, organ failure, ect. All of this will occur over a period of time so it isn't likely to be fun.
 

Only for retail consumer goods.

You can still readily buy tin-based solder wire, bars and paste from most electronics suppliers for repairs and hobby use. Lead-acid batteries are also prevalent in UPS, engine starters, emergency lighting, etc.

The reason why there is an "exception" for batteries is that they can be easily separated from all other e-waste, unlike all the stuff on PCBs.

As far as health is concerned, I would be more worried about flux fumes while working with solder (any alloy) than inhaling lead. Just remember to wash your hands after handling lead solder to avoid ingesting it.