Monitor loses signal after successful boot

[masri_mo]

I have an issue with my new build. I completed this build today, followed best practise methods and was extremely detailed in the build process. I switch the tower on once I'm finished and it works fine, I can go into the BIOS etc.
I then went on to set install windows 10, and set it up as normal. I then proceeded to download the latest drivers from the Asus and Nvidia websites for the parts used. The next thing I did was a benchmark using Asus RealBench. The first small issue I had was it wouldn't let me put up to 16gb ram for the stress test, even though I have 16 gb installed. Anyhow, I set it to 15 minutes and up to 8gb Ram, the I ran it. 2 or 3 minutes into the test the monitor loses signal (just get a black screen, with the standby button on) and the the computer is not responsive to the power button and the reset switch (which I know to be I fully working order). Now since I cannot see what's being displayed, and the power buttons were not working, I had no option but to switch it off from the PSU. This happens every single time I do this test, and even when I ran any games it still happened regardless of what the strain was on the card. The other thing that happens is it sometimes just restarts on its own.
I tried basic troubleshooting, the power LED lights in the GC are always on throughout this error and before it. I reinstalled the GPU driver from Nvidia but still it is the same thing that is happening.
My setup is as follows:

AMD Ryzen 2600
Asus x470-f gaming motherboard
Asus rog geforce gtx 1080 a8g
G Skill Trident Z 16GB (2x8) DDR4 @ 3200
Corsair CS750M 750W 80+ Gold

I would like to stress I have not done any overlooking or editing beyond using XMP profile for RAM in BIOS to get them to 3200Mhz. Before and after I made this change I was still getting this issue.

I have scoured the Internet but the problem is all of the issues relate to a monitor no signal from when the PC is booted up, not after it has been on and being used for a period of time.

Thank you for your help.

 

[masri_mo]

Also, I double checked the heat on the CPU and GPU and they never go over 60 degrees C

 

[hang-the-9]

Could be a power supply issue, the CS is the basic PSU range.

This is what it states on Corsair's web site "CS Series™ Modular power supplies are ideal for basic desktop systems where low energy use, low noise, and simple installation are essential."

A system with a 1080 is not a "basic desktop system".

I'd do an RMA on that power supply and get a higher range model from Corsiar, CXM or higher, maybe something from Seasonic/XFX/EVGA SuperNova line.

 

[masri_mo]

Could be a power supply issue, the CS is the basic PSU range.

This is what it states on Corsair's web site "CS Series™ Modular power supplies are ideal for basic desktop systems where low energy use, low noise, and simple installation are essential."

A system with a 1080 is not a "basic desktop system".

Ok, so as a follow up to that, since I posted this question I have been playing around with the system a little, I bought a £20 Geforce GT 710 graphics card to swap out the 1080, I tested the system and it worked absolutely fine. As soon as I put the 1080 back the issue started coming back. Does this support your PSU idea?

I'd do an RMA on that power supply and get a higher range model from Corsiar, CXM or higher, maybe something from Seasonic/XFX/EVGA SuperNova line.

I'm sorry, but I dont know what an RMA stands for or what it is or how to do it, regardless I thought the power supply being 750W (plenty) and 80+ gold rated would make it sufficient enough to run my system (which has a total max Wattage of 350W as calculated by pcpartpicker).

 

[hang-the-9]

Could be a bad video card or power supply, to rule out issue with the card you would need to test it in another system. You can try a BIOS update while it's running on the other card. If the video card works in another system with a good power supply, then you can try swapping the PSU in yours and see if that helps.

RMA is just a term for a return.

 

[masri_mo]

I just checked a different graphics card and a different PSU in alternation. Turns out PSU is the problem.
I don't understand why the CSM750 isn't good enough for my system where the wattage if much higher than required and the max load is 65A at 12V. Anyhow I've gone for an EVGA Supernova 650 G+ now which will arrive tomorrow and so I will update on that if it works

 

[CaptainCretin]

I just checked a different graphics card and a different PSU in alternation. Turns out PSU is the problem.
I don't understand why the CSM750 isn't good enough for my system where the wattage if much higher than required and the max load is 65A at 12V. Anyhow I've gone for an EVGA Supernova 650 G+ now which will arrive tomorrow and so I will update on that if it works

It isnt just the total load; it is the amount of current available on the rail you need for the card.

Example :- I had an old, but high quality 380W psu that was just about booting a new gfx card; being a bit short after buying the card, I picked up a no name branded 750w psu, on the basis that if a 380w can manage, even a cheap 750 should be fine.
It wasnt, it wouldnt even boot with the 750w psu, because it couldnt supply enough current on the single 12v rail the gfx card needed.

When buying a psu to use with a high end gfx card, you need to CAREFULLY look at the power draw of the card, and match it to the power available on the 12v rail you will be using.
Many expensive psu have multiple 12v rails, but many cheap ones claim multi rail, but actually just have extra cables running off of the same rail; with the expensive psu, you can gang 2 of the rails together to provide the power; try that with the cheap one, and it you are lucky it will just not work.

If you are unlucky, 4th of July/New Year will come early.

 

[masri_mo]

I'd do an RMA on that power supply and get a higher range model from Corsiar, CXM or higher, maybe something from Seasonic/XFX/EVGA SuperNova line.

I returned the Corsair PSU and I bought an EVGA SuperNova 650 G+. I put it into my machine and the same thing happened. O then decided (for the first time) to remove all of the power extension cables that I had (I used extensions for all of the PSU connections).

This fixed the problem for me for a good 11 hours of today (normally it cuts out between 2 to 15 minutes every time) until suddenly, it just happened again. The same things with random cut offs. I am not too sure what to do now, because my graphics card was tested on another system using Furmark GPU stress test and it was absolutely fine. And this is my second PSU which I believe to be of a decent quality and sufficient power supply.

 

[CaptainCretin]

I'd do an RMA on that power supply and get a higher range model from Corsiar, CXM or higher, maybe something from Seasonic/XFX/EVGA SuperNova line.

I returned the Corsair PSU and I bought an EVGA SuperNova 650 G+. I put it into my machine and the same thing happened. O then decided (for the first time) to remove all of the power extension cables that I had (I used extensions for all of the PSU connections).

This fixed the problem for me for a good 11 hours of today (normally it cuts out between 2 to 15 minutes every time) until suddenly, it just happened again. The same things with random cut offs. I am not too sure what to do now, because my graphics card was tested on another system using Furmark GPU stress test and it was absolutely fine. And this is my second PSU which I believe to be of a decent quality and sufficient power supply.

Did you check the cards power requirements against how much power the psu can supply on the +12v rails?? Allow an extra 20% for future psu degradation.

Final thoughts, these modern, high power cards draw power both from the power cable attached - straight from the psu, and ALSO from the PCIE slot.

Some cards try to draw too much via PCIE (AMD had an issue with the early RX480's).

You might have both feeding off of the same +12v rail, and the rail cannot cope.

If you have other 12v cable outputs from the PSU, try swapping unused cables to the gfx card and see if that helps.

 

[masri_mo]

Did you check the cards power requirements against how much power the psu can supply on the +12v rails?? Allow an extra 20% for future psu degradation.

Final thoughts, these modern, high power cards draw power both from the power cable attached - straight from the psu, and ALSO from the PCIE slot.

Some cards try to draw too much via PCIE (AMD had an issue with the early RX480's).

You might have both feeding off of the same +12v rail, and the rail cannot cope.

If you have other 12v cable outputs from the PSU, try swapping unused cables to the gfx card and see if that helps.

I have searched and searched, the manual on the Asus website is only available in Russian. I found elsewhere that the card has a 35A requirement, and this PSU (EVGA SuperNova 650 G+) +12V rail has a max output of 53A.
The Corsair CSM 750 I had in it when I first put this build together had a max output of 62A.

Now I understand that other components draw power too, however I have searched again and again and I cannot find any information about my motherboards usage and the RAM sticks.

Now this is my system, what PSU would you choose for this build? and multi or single rail?
AMD Ryzen 2600
Asus x470-f gaming motherboard
Asus rog geforce gtx 1080 8g
G Skill Trident Z 16GB (2x8) DDR4 @ 3200
TP Link Wifi PCI Card
Hue+ Controller
4 120mm Fans

 

[CaptainCretin]

Did you check the cards power requirements against how much power the psu can supply on the +12v rails?? Allow an extra 20% for future psu degradation.

Final thoughts, these modern, high power cards draw power both from the power cable attached - straight from the psu, and ALSO from the PCIE slot.

Some cards try to draw too much via PCIE (AMD had an issue with the early RX480's).

You might have both feeding off of the same +12v rail, and the rail cannot cope.

If you have other 12v cable outputs from the PSU, try swapping unused cables to the gfx card and see if that helps.

I have searched and searched, the manual on the Asus website is only available in Russian. I found elsewhere that the card has a 35A requirement, and this PSU (EVGA SuperNova 650 G+) +12V rail has a max output of 53A.
The Corsair CSM 750 I had in it when I first put this build together had a max output of 62A.

Now I understand that other components draw power too, however I have searched again and again and I cannot find any information about my motherboards usage and the RAM sticks.

Now this is my system, what PSU would you choose for this build? and multi or single rail?
AMD Ryzen 2600
Asus x470-f gaming motherboard
Asus rog geforce gtx 1080 8g
G Skill Trident Z 16GB (2x8) DDR4 @ 3200
TP Link Wifi PCI Card
Hue+ Controller
4 120mm Fans

I found the same issue, for some reason (probably a FUBAR), Asus are showing the Russian Language version of the manual on the English language web page.

From some quick reading of tech reviews for both the card and the mobo, they should be perfect for each other.

One quick question, the card has TWO power attachments, you HAVE connected both?? (8pin + 6pin)

If the answer is yes, all I can think is a defective mobo, as the PCIE draw is well within the standard; if no; it may be trying to draw far too much through the PCIE slot; this may have damaged the mobo itself; or it may just be powering down as a safety feature.

 

[masri_mo]

I found the same issue, for some reason (probably a FUBAR), Asus are showing the Russian Language version of the manual on the English language web page.

From some quick reading of tech reviews for both the card and the mobo, they should be perfect for each other.

One quick question, the card has TWO power attachments, you HAVE connected both?? (8pin + 6pin)

If the answer is yes, all I can think is a defective mobo, as the PCIE draw is well within the standard; if no; it may be trying to draw far too much through the PCIE slot; this may have damaged the mobo itself; or it may just be powering down as a safety feature.

I have them both connected and the power LED indicators for both connection are on.

So if it seems to be the motherboard, could I RMA it?

 

[CaptainCretin]

I found the same issue, for some reason (probably a FUBAR), Asus are showing the Russian Language version of the manual on the English language web page.

From some quick reading of tech reviews for both the card and the mobo, they should be perfect for each other.

One quick question, the card has TWO power attachments, you HAVE connected both?? (8pin + 6pin)

If the answer is yes, all I can think is a defective mobo, as the PCIE draw is well within the standard; if no; it may be trying to draw far too much through the PCIE slot; this may have damaged the mobo itself; or it may just be powering down as a safety feature.

I have them both connected and the power LED indicators for both connection are on.

So if it seems to be the motherboard, could I RMA it?

I would send it back and ask for a replacement; if the replacement does the same thing, then at least we have (hopefully), eliminated that from the equation.

It may be that the heatsink compound between the VRM modules and the heatsink that dissipates it, either is missing or incorrectly applied. I had this on an MSI board a couple of years ago, a temperature probe was showing 80+C at IDLE.

 

[masri_mo]

I would send it back and ask for a replacement; if the replacement does the same thing, then at least we have (hopefully), eliminated that from the equation.

It may be that the heatsink compound between the VRM modules and the heatsink that dissipates it, either is missing or incorrectly applied. I had this on an MSI board a couple of years ago, a temperature probe was showing 80+C at IDLE.

OK I will try the mobo. I might be a while before I provide an update in that case, please don't forget about me!
The other thing is the temperature of the CPU at idle is around 31 degrees, and varies with use to 45 degrees. And the graphics card is the same, it doesn't go over 55 degrees.

 

[CaptainCretin]

I would send it back and ask for a replacement; if the replacement does the same thing, then at least we have (hopefully), eliminated that from the equation.

It may be that the heatsink compound between the VRM modules and the heatsink that dissipates it, either is missing or incorrectly applied. I had this on an MSI board a couple of years ago, a temperature probe was showing 80+C at IDLE.

OK I will try the mobo. I might be a while before I provide an update in that case, please don't forget about me!
The other thing is the temperature of the CPU at idle is around 31 degrees, and varies with use to 45 degrees. And the graphics card is the same, it doesn't go over 55 degrees.

Both those temps are really good, no reason for the board to be overheating really. Hopefully they wont give you the runaround, and you will get a replacement before the end of the week.

 

[masri_mo]

Before I send it back, I just got a response from the Asustek tech support that I had raised earlier in the week, they've told me:

"CMOS reset of the BIOS by taking out the CMOS battery for 3-5 minutes while the PSU is unplugged. While the power cord from the PSU is still unplugged, press the power button down for 30 seconds to power discharge the unit. Then place the CMOS battery back
in, plug in the PSU and try again.


After this go into the BIOS > Advanced Menu > APM Configuration, from here set the ERP Ready to Enabled S4 + S5 or Enabled S5 and set the Restore AC Power Loss to Last State and test the motherboard again."

Is this worth attempting? Or is it completely unrelated?

 

[CaptainCretin]

Before I send it back, I just got a response from the Asustek tech support that I had raised earlier in the week, they've told me:

"CMOS reset of the BIOS by taking out the CMOS battery for 3-5 minutes while the PSU is unplugged. While the power cord from the PSU is still unplugged, press the power button down for 30 seconds to power discharge the unit. Then place the CMOS battery back
in, plug in the PSU and try again.


After this go into the BIOS > Advanced Menu > APM Configuration, from here set the ERP Ready to Enabled S4 + S5 or Enabled S5 and set the Restore AC Power Loss to Last State and test the motherboard again."

Is this worth attempting? Or is it completely unrelated?

Doing it costs you nothing but a little time, I cannot see it resolving the issue, but NOT doing it might cause them to refuse the RMA and class it as a DSR return.