Monitor losing signal only when playing games

fakdatbald_dude2323

Commendable
Jan 6, 2017
6
0
1,510
i5 4460, hyper 212 led cooler
Rx 580 8gb gigabyte gaming
1x 8gb ddr3 hyperx blue
msi h81m p33 board
Aerocool kcas 500w psu ( comes with the case)

All are bought on December 2016 except the gpu bought on June 2017

Ever since october 25 it was all working fine and flawless now my Monitor is not receiving signal when gaming/Benchmarking it would last for like 5 minutes then boom NO SIGNAL, pc would stay on, forcing me to hard restart it ONLY when gaming tho.

Never OC'ed it. Temps seems pretty normal too, 42°C on idle and max temp while gaming never reached 80°C, flat lining on 75°C on nba 2k19 (ulra settings) and rainbow six siege (very high settings) the only games i've been playing the most before the problem occured. CPU temps are normal as well. Passed stress test.

I just wanna make sure that my gpu is fine, haven't tested it yet to another pc. I brought it to a friend but he has no 8pin on his psu.

Although when i underclock the gpu to its lowest core and memory clock, it significantly delayed it from losing its signal to the monitor (lasted for like 45 mins) So is it the power supply? Considering that its from aerocool and kinda old and the problem is only occuring when demanding power from intense games
 
there is no way of being 100% sure unless you have a power tester they cost a lot and you are asking my opinion this is it generally from what you have explained. Note PSU's have a lot capacitors in them 3-4 years and they are no good a branded PSU can last a bit longer but they all die in the end.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html
Evga g2/g3
Seasonic focus/prime
I would recommend an EVGA SuperNova Gold G2 / or new G3 /GS / GQ, Platinum P2 / PS, or Titanium T2 or a Seasonic M12-II Evo or S12-II
GOOD PSU EVGA is a B2, G2, G3, P2, GS, PS, or T2. Avoid the EVGA B1 and G1 series/ I bought a EVGA G3 with 7year garentee
 
Aerocool units are junk. No 2 ways around that. That said, it's not the psu failing. The gpu runs on the 12v rail. Electronics don't slowly die, they might get worse over time with capacitor degradation, but once it fails, it's done. That unit only has the basic protections, but that includes Overcurrent (OCP), Overvoltage (OVP) and short circuit (SCP). If any of those trip, it takes a hard reset to drop the tripped circuit, but it'll also shut down the entire pc, not just a black screen.

Windows only reboots if it's set to reboot on ac power restart, so if power goes off then comes back on, windows will reboot if it set that way, otherwise the pc remains off. Friend is partly right.

Before anything, check windows event viewer for critical errors, it's in admin tools.

Gpu temps seem a little on the high side, by about 10° or so for a low-mid 70's ambient room temp. Check your airflow in/out of the case. Gpus have 2 sections, the VRM's/vram area near the rear of the card and the processor (gpu) nearer the front. Of these, only the gpu is temp monitored. Quite easy for the VRM's to exceed 90°C and have the card read only 60ish. If the VRM's are reaching that temp or beyond due to fan failure or high voltages or lack of decent airflow, then that will cause blackscreens as the gpu basically shuts off.

Lastly, that's a high draw amd card. Paired with a substandard psu. If pushed hard, the rails can fail to give enough power to the card to keep it running, and it shuts down. This isn't a failure of the psu, it's a failure of pairing a big card with a small psu. That KCAS 500 has a 12v rating of 444w. The gigabyte gaming can pull sustained 240-280w gaming. Add another 100w for the cpu, minimum of 50w for the rest of the pc and your power draw max is closer to 390-440w with average gaming loads of about 360-380w. That's assuming the Aerocool will actually put out that level of wattage in a case that's warmer than the 30°C it's rated at.

So is it possible it's the psu? Yep, very possible for a couple of reasons. Is it possible it's the gpu? Yep, again for a couple of reasons.

Can't rule out either one until one of them is changed/swapped out. The psu is by far the cheaper in that respect. Stick with a quality 550w instead of the junk 500