Question Motherboard BIOS Reading 13.6v++ (Tried different PSU)

[MakotoSGT]

Specs
8700k
8GB HyperX 2600mhz
Z370-H STRIX
2x 2TB SSHD
TT Silent RING Cooler
3x Case Fans
Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 750W RGB
RX580 GPU

1 year old build.
Used only on weekends.

Tested 2 PSU.

1. Brand new box packed Toughpower GRAND 750W RGB.
2. In-use VS650 from a friend.

Issue:
Motherboard BIOS are showing 13.440v on 12v reading.
They started going above 12.1, Around 0.110 every few seconds up until 13.4 right now.
They go upto 14V and onwards if i keep looking at it.

What happened?
So this one morning, I turned on my PC, it took unusually long to POST, but eventually turned on.
I did my usual stuff, played a few games. Then I noticed something unusual in HWMonitor.

12v went past 12.330, which is highly unusual for my PSU since it stays between 11.8 and 12.2.

I thought maybe the software went bonkers, Restarted my PC to check what the BIOS showed.
And it was no different.

I immediately scrambled and went out to get another PSU to see whats up.

And to my surprise, it fixed NOTHING.
The results were the same and my mobo kept showing unusually high 12v rail.

I decided to wait a day and get borrow another PSU.

This time I tried a small low end VS650 (Orange) one.
And no different.

These huge numbers are giving me a headache and I don't know whether to trust them or not.
I'm highly sure that something on my motherboard got damaged but not enough to halt its operation.
I don't even know what is taking this extra juice.

No thermal issues so far, all operations normal. GPU Normal, CPU Normal, Ram Normal.

I don't know what to do, except RMA, to which I can't cuz no receipt no more.

You guys have any idea?

 

[Eximo]

Have you measured the 12V+ directly? A cheap multimeter is about $15, invaluable to have around for all kinds of things.

If it is showing 12V+ properly at the power supply you'll at least know nothing is wrong there. Doesn't rule out a bad regulator or something on the motherboard. But it could just be a bad sensor.

You might be able to do a receiptless RMA if the product is new enough. When it is physically impossible for an end customer to have the product outside the warranty. Just give it a try, worst they can say is no. I don't think they ask for a receipt, just a purchase date. Though I haven't dealt with ASUS support since like 2012.

 

[MakotoSGT]

Have you measured the 12V+ directly? A cheap multimeter is about $15, invaluable to have around for all kinds of things.

If it is showing 12V+ properly at the power supply you'll at least know nothing is wrong there. Doesn't rule out a bad regulator or something on the motherboard. But it could just be a bad sensor.

You might be able to do a receiptless RMA if the product is new enough. When it is physically impossible for an end customer to have the product outside the warranty. Just give it a try, worst they can say is no. I don't think they ask for a receipt, just a purchase date. Though I haven't dealt with ASUS support since like 2012.

A testing with DVM seems like some work.
However, I doubt 3 different powersupplies showing the same results mean they're all faulty, given that one of them is brand new out of the box and is in use with a rtx2080 on my friends PC.

Do you have any ideas about where all this power is being routed to, or whether it is actually being used? I wouldn't mind using this PC for a while longer before I'm able to make a brand new build later next year.

Just wanna be sure if its actual power being taken or bad sensor.

Edit: as for RMA, the process here is a bit odd. So I can't contact ASUS directly. (I can't send electronic devices/products out of the country by law)

 

[Eximo]

Not a matter of faulty, if something in the system is causing the right load to show a higher voltage or leaking voltage onto a rail you want to know. That will tell you if it is just a sensor problem or an actual measured voltage.

Voltage isn't power per say. Just the 'pressure'. Power is Voltage * Amperage. Watts is Joules per second...etc. All the way down to silly physics levels of detail.

High voltage is bad on electronics because if they aren't built to withstand it, it can break down the junctions in semiconductors.

So in the motherboard, everything that isn't the BIOS is basically going to be running on 12V. The VRMs of the CPU, Memory, and Chipset all take that incoming voltage and condition it for the low voltage that contemporary chips need. .8-1.2 volts typically. GPU does the same thing. If something is wrong with one of them and is acting as an amplifier (a bunch of MOSFETs so it is totally possible) then seeing that voltage from an independent measurement will tell you if the system should still be run or not.

If it is a bad sensor, that could mean a bad shunt or resistor, maybe a capacitor, or a faulty sensor itself. Might not be a big deal. However, it might trip an over voltage condition and cause the computer to shut off to protect itself. Since that hasn't happened, it does point to a sensor issue. Or the board has multiple readings and is ignoring the erroneous one.

 

[MakotoSGT]

Not a matter of faulty, if something in the system is causing the right load to show a higher voltage or leaking voltage onto a rail you want to know. That will tell you if it is just a sensor problem or an actual measured voltage.

Voltage isn't power per say. Just the 'pressure'. Power is Voltage * Amperage. Watts is Joules per second...etc. All the way down to silly physics levels of detail.

High voltage is bad on electronics because if they aren't built to withstand it, it can break down the junctions in semiconductors.

So in the motherboard, everything that isn't the BIOS is basically going to be running on 12V. The VRMs of the CPU, Memory, and Chipset all take that incoming voltage and condition it for the low voltage that contemporary chips need. .8-1.2 volts typically. GPU does the same thing. If something is wrong with one of them and is acting as an amplifier (a bunch of MOSFETs so it is totally possible) then seeing that voltage from an independent measurement will tell you if the system should still be run or not.

If it is a bad sensor, that could mean a bad shunt or resistor, maybe a capacitor, or a faulty sensor itself. Might not be a big deal. However, it might trip an over voltage condition and cause the computer to shut off to protect itself. Since that hasn't happened, it does point to a sensor issue. Or the board has multiple readings and is ignoring the erroneous one.

In other words, it's out of a common mans hand to test it out thoroughly.
Guess I'll contact my retailer and see if I can come up with something.