Motherboard reading 115 Degrees on multiple monitoring softwares

[hoover1979]

And YES this is an ASUS Motherboard, a Z97-k
So far I have tried Speedfan, OCCT and HWinfo

Here is the info that HWInfo gives me:.
(it is more detailed than the other programs that just say Motherboard = 115 Deg)

It is probably just a typical case of faulty Asus sensors but the mobo is quite old and the CPU area is reading this so I am concerned nonetheless. Especially when I do the burn test in OCCT it goes for 1 min at 50-60 degrees with a threshold of 85, and it just stops because in half a second it spiked from 63 degrees to 99 degrees (14 degrees above the threshold) and it has a heavy liquid cooler and is not overclocked or in turbo mode. (Stock 4.0Ghz)

I can't afford for my machine to catch fire, because I am working on making an UltraHD Texture pack for the original Doom and have been working on it since May 2016 and am not even half finished. I want to finish my pack, not have my PC become finished. Filter Forge thrashes my CPU by having it at constant 100% usage for up to 2 hours at a time when rendering out resources to utilize in my textures. If the rig will catch fire it will be while generating resources for the textures via Filter Forge and PhotoShop, and I can't afford to replace all my hardware!

I will list my full specs as I always do this with any help thread.

My PC Specs:

Windows 7 Professional 64bit on Kingston HyperX Fury SSD (120Gb)
ASUS Z97-k Mobo
Corsair HX850i Platinum Grade 850w PSU
Intel i7-4790k in turbo mode 4.0Ghz
Corsair H115i Liquid CPU Cooler
32Gb Corsair Vengeance pro 2400 DDR3 RAM (set in XMP mode)
8Gb Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming GTX1080 OC PCIe Waterforce GFX Card (at stock speeds)
latest WHQL Nvidia Display Drivers
Sound Blaster Zx PCIe Sound Card
Logitech Z906 THX Certified 5.1 Surrond Speakers and LFE
Seagate 8Tb Internal HDD
WD 4Tb internal HDD
WD Caviar 1.5Tb Internal HDD
WD Elements 1Tb External USB 3.0 HDD
WD Elements 3Tb External USB 3.0 HDD
ASUS VG278 27" 120Hz 3D Monitor with Nvidia 3D Vision 2 (tm)
AVERMedia Volar Green USB2.0 HDTV Tuner
Targus Bluetooth 4.0 Adapter
Microsoft Xbox One S Controller connected via MicroUSB to avoid Win10 requirement
Logitech K260 Wireless Keyboard
ASUS PCE-AC68U AC1900 PCIe WiFi Card paired with:
ASUS RT-AC68U AC1900 Dual-Band Router on 5ghz band
Fractal Design XL-R2 Full Tower ATX Chassis

 

[RARRAF]

I am not so sure about those readings ie it says CPU 33 which is good if you install corsair link from here
http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/landing/corsair-link-dashboard#page=system-panel
you will have all the readings in front of you and you can adjust the fan curve of your H115 to your own needs.

 

[cin19]

Sometime the software will give you wrong readings, forget about those readings, as long as the PC does not shut down and restart, you are fine.

You may try to update the chipset driver from asus, because the driver will update those heat senors driver too. After that go into the BIOS, either hardware monitor section or pc health monitor section to check the temp again. Or even go to the BIOS check them out without update the chipset driver.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

HWiNFO often gives you a popup when starting advising that ya might want to turn a sensor off ... are you getting this ? Obviously somethings are amiss as the CPU weight is 115C. I would suggest posting this on the Asus Forums. I don't think there's an issue here. You are obviously under no load here give low CPU temp. What do those sensors say when running say RoG Real Bench ?

The CLC cooler will of course not cool as well as the top air coolers but couple of things to look at if the idea is to improve cooling

1. Size, speed, location and orientation of case fans ?

2. Are rad fans blowing into the case ? If not reverse them as per Corsair instructions

http://www.corsair.com/~/media/corsair/download-files/manuals/cooling/h115i_qsg.pdf

See panel 3

3. Look to have 3 intake fans for every 2 exhaust fans,... this is because as dust filters pick up dust, they can reduce air flow by as much as 30%. Failure to have more air coming in than out results in negative case pressure which everyone will tell ya is a bad thing because if dust being sucked into the case. If you fill all options

Front: (2) 140mm 1000 rpm - Intake
Rear: (1) 40mm 1000 rpm - Exhaust
Top: (2) 140mm 1000 rpm - Exhaust
Bottom: (1) 140mm 1000 rpm - Intake
Side: Empty

With the above scenario, you have 3 intake and 3 exhaust... On 1st day, you will have slight negative pressure and by the time most folks get around to cleaning their air filters, you will have the equivalent of 2 in and 3 out. That means that 1 fan's worth of air will need to get in somewhere else.

Now looking at the case we see two possible entry points:

a) That side fan mounting (filtered I imagine)
b) those wide open circular openings on case rear.

Air will primarily come in thru the path of least resistance and with this much larger holed ... unfiltered holes, on the case rear that's where most of the missing air will come in. But is dust your primary concern ?

You have that big CLC cooling your 90 watt CPU and if installed as exhaust, you're keeping up to 90 watts worth of air out of your case. But the air coming into your case has been preheated by exhaust from your 250 watt GFX card and your 850 watt PSU. I think you are better off pushing that 90 watts of preheated air into the case where it will be immediately forced out of the rear case grilles by the positive air pressure than having air preheated by the 250 watt GFX card and P850 watt PSU being sucked back in

4. To test iud case air turnover is an issue... run RoG Real Bench and Furmark and record themps w/ HWinFO ... then take off the side panel, set up a desk or wondow fan to blow air into the case na drecord the differnces ... if significant, you'd benefit from improved case air flow