[Mouse] Problems dismounting that microswitch

scenic92

Commendable
Apr 27, 2016
2
0
1,510
Hi, I had ghost clicking problems with the scroll button in my mouse (logitech M90), since a year ago or so, I didn't tried to repair it because I have never done it before. But lately the problem became worse so I tried to fix it.

I had seen some videos that explain how to fix it, but my mouse have 2 microswitchs types and I can't open the one I want to fix.

Here hare some photos:

LkN8jWU.jpg


Is a Himake microswitch

MQ0TfGf.jpg

R627Yvt.jpg


The one I want to fix is the black and white with the red piece.

I tried with a flathead screwdriver and with a cutter blade. But the switch don't have any gap or hole to introduce anything and try to open it.

Somebody had any experience with this and know how to open it?

Thanks!
 
Solution
It looks to me as if the switch should/would come apart if you could pry from below the black box with the white tab (?) inside.

Small jeweler's flat head screwdriver between the bottom of tab and the horizontal black section below it. But, as you said, if there is no gap then probably not a go...

Once opened you will probably find nothing inside that is really repairable. Switches are put together to be sealed and the internal parts are small and likely delicate. Less expensive to just buy a new switch versus "parts" and repair "labor"

Probably better to desolder the unit and replace it outright. Maybe with a switch from another broken mouse. Colors do not need to be the same - just identical phyiscal specifications. Even...
It looks to me as if the switch should/would come apart if you could pry from below the black box with the white tab (?) inside.

Small jeweler's flat head screwdriver between the bottom of tab and the horizontal black section below it. But, as you said, if there is no gap then probably not a go...

Once opened you will probably find nothing inside that is really repairable. Switches are put together to be sealed and the internal parts are small and likely delicate. Less expensive to just buy a new switch versus "parts" and repair "labor"

Probably better to desolder the unit and replace it outright. Maybe with a switch from another broken mouse. Colors do not need to be the same - just identical phyiscal specifications. Even then you may have some leeway....

I like to see DIY stuff but have learned that there are alway trade-offs and at some point the effort is no longer worth the effort. Even if eventual success is likely.

Pretty sure you would have the ability to fix the switch if it was intended to be fixed. Unfortunately the world is working against us DIY'ers.

That would be a rant for another setting....

 
Solution
Thanks for ur answer!

I was trying to avoid soldering because I have never done it before. But I have some broken components that I can desolder and solder to practice before I try with my mouse. I'll probably leave so for a while, at least until I learn how to soldering properly. I have one mouse broken I will see if it have the same switches.

For the physical specifications u mean be exactly like that in appearance? or need I to look for a specific model?

Yes you are right with the world against us hehe, thats the proof!. But well for a small issue is worth to try to fix it instead of buying a new mouse.
 
You are welcome.

Good idea to practice. Remember you will need to be able to solder and desolder. Lots of online videos, etc. with instructions and guidance.

You do need a quality soldering gun that can focus the heat where needed and not "cook" nearby joints or components. There are conductors, aka heat sinks, that can be used to dissipate heat when that is required. Also you will need some sort of wicking to soak up liquid solder while desoldering. Or you could use one of the various vacuum tools that are available.

As for the physical specifications question: physical dimensions are more important per se than appearance. (The switch/component must fit.) The color of the plastic does not matter in itself unless the color difference(s) represent some internal differences or specific pinout pattern. Two switches could physically match but a color difference could represent some other attribute. Polarity differences on the pins for example.

Manufacturer's purchase bulk orders of switches. They go with the lowest cost supplier and the specifications may or may not encompass some standard color coding or component/part/ID number being imprinted on the switch. (As can be seen in your switches.) Hopefully matching numbers mean the same switch. But it could be just the same manufacturer and the color coding or some other number is unique to any given switch.

The switches could be identical internally. Or mirror images..... Once de-soldered you could try comparing the pinouts by using a multi-meter. May or may not be able to detect similiarities or differences.

But with nothing to really lose and things to learn - no harm in trying.