Question My computer suddenly shut off and will not turn back on.

Jul 29, 2022
7
0
10
0
Hey all,

My computer has been running fine for a little over a year now. All of a sudden it just shut off in the middle of playing a game. Now it will not turn on at all. Motherboard lights up but when I press the power button nothing. The PSU will make a clicking noise the first time but I cannot get it to turn on anything. I installed a brand new PSU just now and changed out all the cables and triple checked that everything is tight and correctly installed. Same thing, motherboard lights (not the diagnostic LEDs as those are not lighting up) are pulsing so I know power is getting to the motherboard but PSU only clicks when I hit the power switch and nothing, no fans or anything else. I am new to jump starting things but followed a guide to jump start my motherboard and it still would not start (I think I heard the PSU clicking as I tried to jump start the motherboard.) I have a Corsair water cooling heatsink for my CPU and was thinking about jumpstarting one of my PSUs connected to just the heatsink to make sure it is okay. Are there other steps I should be taking before just replacing the motherboard. Sorry about the long post, first time posting with an issue. Any and all help would be much appreciated.
 
Jul 29, 2022
7
0
10
0
full system spec? include brand and model of the psu
Sorry for the delay. Been working all day on my computer with no luck.

CPU: Ryzen 7 5000series
Motherboard: Asus Rog Strix b550-f Gaming
Heatsink: Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 120-G2-1300-XR 80+ GOLD 1300W
RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Force Xtreem ARGB 3600MHz CL18 32GB (2x16GB) PC4-28800 Dual Channel DDR4 DRAM
HDD: Seagate IronWolf 8TB NAS Hard Drive 7200 RPM 256MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s
 
Sorry for the delay. Been working all day on my computer with no luck.

CPU: Ryzen 7 5000series
Motherboard: Asus Rog Strix b550-f Gaming
Heatsink: Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 120-G2-1300-XR 80+ GOLD 1300W
RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Force Xtreem ARGB 3600MHz CL18 32GB (2x16GB) PC4-28800 Dual Channel DDR4 DRAM
HDD: Seagate IronWolf 8TB NAS Hard Drive 7200 RPM 256MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s
Is there a gpu in this mix?
 
Jul 29, 2022
7
0
10
0
Make it smaller.

Remove the gpu.
Unplug the hdd.
One stick of ram.
Test.
Update, a lot happened but will keep it to only relevant stuff. I wasn't getting anywhere so I replaced the CPU, Motherboard, and the Heatsink with brand new parts (all exactly the same make and model.) Made system smaller just like you suggested. I have gotten it down to this... the Motherboard will only jumpstart if I have the power cables to the CPU unplugged. If they are unplugged it jump starts like a dream. If they are plugged in the PSU clicks but will not start, it did this with 2 different PSUs. When the motherboard jump starts the on board LEDs for debugging do not light up (which I am not sure if they should at this point or not.) I tried different loads (i.e. with all ram plugged in, HDD plugged in, etc.) Every setup will jump start until I plug in the power cables for the CPU. I tested those cables for the CPU plugged into the PSU but unplugged from the Motherboard and got a reading of 12v. Just waking up so will update with more if I forgot anything. I have not tried with the GPU or monitor. One thing I can say is I am learning a lot. Any ideas are very welcome. Again thank you all so much for your time!
 
Last edited:
Jul 29, 2022
7
0
10
0
Okay another update. Again still new so learning. For CPU power there are 2 connections, a 4 pin and a separate 8 pin. I just got the motherboard to jumpstart with only the 4 pin CPU power cable plugged in (which I think is only for overclocking.) If I only plug in the 8 pin CPU connector nothing (only an audible click from the PSU). Everything on the motherboard and all fans starting up (LEDs and ram lighting up etc.) The LED right below those CPU ports is solid red. The debugging lights finally started flashing. Always this pattern: VGA White, CPU Red, and DRAM Yellow. That pattern over and over. I am sure it is because I have the system smaller (no GPU in it.) Still maybe someone sees something I cannot. Also not sure if relevant but got it to were I can get it to power on with the normal tower power button but again only if the 8 pin CPU power cable is not plugged in.
 
Jul 29, 2022
7
0
10
0
Hey all! I have been having no luck with my issue. If anyone has anymore ideas I would love to hear. Thank you to everyone for their ideas so far.
 

noXLar

Honorable
May 12, 2017
2
0
10,510
0
Hey all! I have been having no luck with my issue. If anyone has anymore ideas I would love to hear. Thank you to everyone for their ideas so far.

copyed from the user Jikkelstikkel at tomshardwareforum 2015

Hey my friend, have you considered your AC supply to the computer? Have you added any multiplug power adapters lately, or cords.
First check this simple issue out out before going into depth with all sorts of other things with your rig. This issue drove me crazy for a while.

(1.)One thing to remember is that these bigger PSUs actually draw a lot more current on the AC side than smaller wattage ones.
So, if you have a thinnish little kettle plug cable to power your computer from a multi-adapter extension cord you will have voltage drops on the AC side, causing a droop in current flow to the computer. Also happpens with a low gauge power cable even if direct to wall receptacle.

These PSUs need over 12 Amps on the AC side. AC receptacles are rated for 15A, (leaving only 3A spare), so if you have other things plugged into the same circuit they could cause voltage fluctuations, and its worse if you don't realise someone else in the house could be turning things on and off on the same circuit: -- you know, like when your desk light dims because there's a whole lot of things plugged into a multi-adapter....

This can be enough to drop the PSU momentarily and cause your computer to bomb out leaving you wondering 'what the heck'. So make sure the AC power supply cable is, (1) a proper one that is rated for high current i.e. 14AWG wires in it, and (2) also just plug it directly into a wall socket or have it on its own decent extension cable to a receptacle.

Let us know how it goes.
Good luck.
--------------------------------------


after lots of searching on google to fix my issue where my pcb
shuts down alot. the comment by Jikkelstikkel is very true, and fixed
my system. its now 3 months since last crash and everything is
perfect. my issue was as mention in (1.)

noXLar
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY