[SOLVED] My CPU reaches High temperatures

Jan 24, 2019
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My PC shut down twice and I wasn't sure why, I was playing rainbow six and it's a pretty demanding game and I noticed my PC reaching temperatures up to 100°+, it's normally in between 50-80 when I'm not doing anything with it. I'm wondering should I just reapply thermal paste or should I order a water cooler while I'm at it. (I'm using stock fan with the stock thermal paste)



Specs

RAM: 32 GB DDR4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X
GPU: Gigabyte Geforce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8G
Motherboard: Asus Prime B350M-A
OS: Windows 10 Pro
 
Solution
Yeah, don't get me wrong. I agree that an aftermarket cooler is a good idea, so long as it is a CAPABLE and QUALITY model, for ANY system, no matter WHAT you do on that system, however, when there is a cooling PROBLEM, you need to figure out WHAT the problem is BEFORE slapping a band aid on it with an aftermarket cooler because the problem could be serious and not related to the cooler at all.

Failing to correct the cooling issue on a system first could result in something being ruined or damaged, in which case that nice aftermarket cooler won't do you a lot of good until you replace whatever it is that you allowed to get destroyed because you preferred to throw a better cooler at a problem that should have been able to be at least...
Jan 24, 2019
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Have you OCed?
I used to OC it up to 3.9 GHz, but I tried lowering it to see the temperature and it still reached 100 degrees running on 3.625 GHz. Also, before my PC case was opened since I was missing a screw but I recently found the missing piece for the glass pane and I put it back. I'm mostly wondering if I need to spent 10$ on thermal paste or 100$ on a new and better cooler.
 
I used to OC it up to 3.9 GHz, but I tried lowering it to see the temperature and it still reached 100 degrees running on 3.625 GHz. Also, before my PC case was opened since I was missing a screw but I recently found the missing piece for the glass pane and I put it back. I'm mostly wondering if I need to spent 10$ on thermal paste or 100$ on a new and better cooler.
Wouldn’t advise overclocking on the stock cooler. Also you don’t need to go whole hog on Water, a solid air cooler would be cheaper and would do the job. I use aftermarket paste anyway I cleaned the bottom of my stock heatsink and put some NTH1 on there. And I’m not intending to run it on the stock one for more than a month or 2.
 
Jan 24, 2019
21
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Wouldn’t advise overclocking on the stock cooler. Also you don’t need to go whole hog on Water, a solid air cooler would be cheaper and would do the job. I use aftermarket paste anyway I cleaned the bottom of my stock heatsink and put some NTH1 on there. And I’m not intending to run it on the stock one for more than a month or 2.
I'm not really too well informed to make a good choice on coolers but a watercooler would only be 40$ more. I wouldn't mind spending that to make sure my CPU is more durable and stable. If you could hit me with a link for stats or information on which cooler would be more suitable I'd appreciate it
 
Having a water cooler isn't going to make sure anything is "more durable and stable" than a good air cooler would.

If you have temperatures between 50-80°C when you are "not doing anything" then there is a big problem. Temperatures at idle, or when "not doing anything" should be more like 30-40°C, AT WORST, unless you live somewhere with a VERY high ambient temperature. Ambient meaning what the temperature is normally outside or in your room where the system is.

I'd advise figuring out WHY you have such high temperatures FIRST, and to do that I'd advise that you start by resetting your BIOS to default settings since you said you "were overclocking to 3.9Ghz" at one point but aren't now. There is no telling what settings are at so I'd reset the BIOS to default and start over. Make sure the CPU cooler is FULLY seated and that the latch hasn't come free. Make sure the fan is working properly on the CPU cooler.

How many case fans do you have, where is each of them installed and in what direction is each of them blowing?
 
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ALL of them are blowing into the PC? So they are ALL intake fans? If so, that's wrong.

What is your case model? I'd recommend moving one of those fans to the top rear fan location if your case has one, so that you have two fans as exhaust, and you'll want to make sure that the rear fan is oriented to BE an exhaust fan, blowing OUT of the case, and the fan you move to the top rear location as well, while the front two remaining fans are intake blowing in.

Or, if your case has no top fan locations, then at least make sure the rear fan is exhaust, not intake. Knowing your case model would help.

Also, your CPU configuration is set to manual. Unless you are still overclocking, I think that would be better set to Auto. Also, what were you doing when you took that screenshot? Because at 75°C I hope you were running a game or stress test IN ADDITION to having Ryzen master open, because that temp should never be seen without something demanding going on.

If it were me, I think I'd reset Ryzen master to Auto, then go into the BIOS and reset it to the default configuration, double check the CPU cooler and fan orientation and then check again to see what is happening with the temps. Having the stock cooler does NOT account for temps being that high unless are overclocking or running a very demanding program or stress test.
 
Jan 24, 2019
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So I just reset everything to default settings, also I set the CPU to manual because if I don't the Core Speeds keep tweaking constantly ( View: https://imgur.com/a/PqQQ3iv
) They range in between 3600 and 4100, not sure why. Also, the temperature is always that high, even if I'm not doing anything demanding, I think I might need to reapply thermal paste, but while I'm at it should I just get a more powerful fan since I do plan on overclocking?

My case is Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5
 
Last edited:
Jan 24, 2019
21
0
10
ALL of them are blowing into the PC? So they are ALL intake fans? If so, that's wrong.

What is your case model? I'd recommend moving one of those fans to the top rear fan location if your case has one, so that you have two fans as exhaust, and you'll want to make sure that the rear fan is oriented to BE an exhaust fan, blowing OUT of the case, and the fan you move to the top rear location as well, while the front two remaining fans are intake blowing in.

Or, if your case has no top fan locations, then at least make sure the rear fan is exhaust, not intake. Knowing your case model would help.

Also, your CPU configuration is set to manual. Unless you are still overclocking, I think that would be better set to Auto. Also, what were you doing when you took that screenshot? Because at 75°C I hope you were running a game or stress test IN ADDITION to having Ryzen master open, because that temp should never be seen without something demanding going on.

If it were me, I think I'd reset Ryzen master to Auto, then go into the BIOS and reset it to the default configuration, double check the CPU cooler and fan orientation and then check again to see what is happening with the temps. Having the stock cooler does NOT account for temps being that high unless are overclocking or running a very demanding program or stress test.
So suprisingly the temperature hasn't gone over 70 while I was playing Rainbow Six, although my idle temperature still sits around 50 which I think is a bit too high still, but you did fix my issue, thanks a lot.
 
Having a water cooler isn't going to make sure anything is "more durable and stable" than a good air cooler would.

If you have temperatures between 50-80°C when you are "not doing anything" then there is a big problem. Temperatures at idle, or when "not doing anything" should be more like 30-40°C, AT WORST, unless you live somewhere with a VERY high ambient temperature. Ambient meaning what the temperature is normally outside or in your room where the system is.

I'd advise figuring out WHY you have such high temperatures FIRST, and to do that I'd advise that you start by resetting your BIOS to default settings since you said you "were overclocking to 3.9Ghz" at one point but aren't now. There is no telling what settings are at so I'd reset the BIOS to default and start over. Make sure the CPU cooler is FULLY seated and that the latch hasn't come free. Make sure the fan is working properly on the CPU cooler.

How many case fans do you have, where is each of them installed and in what direction is each of them blowing?
Is Ryzen still doing that think where it says it’s like 20 hotter than it actually is?
 
I'm not really too well informed to make a good choice on coolers but a watercooler would only be 40$ more. I wouldn't mind spending that to make sure my CPU is more durable and stable. If you could hit me with a link for stats or information on which cooler would be more suitable I'd appreciate it
A decent air cooler that fits in your case. I’m a be quiet fanboy so I’d recommend either the shadow rock slim or TF depending on if the slim is too tall for your case
 
Jan 24, 2019
21
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A decent air cooler that fits in your case. I’m a be quiet fanboy so I’d recommend either the shadow rock slim or TF depending on if the slim is too tall for your case
The shadow rock slim looks like it'd work well. Say, should I use the thermal paste sent with it or purchase one on the side?
 
They are SUPPOSED to range/change. They are not supposed to stay at one frequency all the time. Your CPU can go from 800mhz to 4500mhz (Well, not YOUR CPU, but ANY CPU, depending on what frequency range envelope it actually operates in) in milliseconds. Too fast to even notice the difference when going from total idle to full load. It is normal.

Having your CPU remain at the same maximum frequency at all times is ridiculous these days. It's a huge waste of power, causes the CPU to run at full voltage at all times which is liable to do nothing more than cause an earlier failure than would otherwise have been normal for both the CPU and motherboard AND will probably cause the fans and noise level to be much higher at any given time when it's not at full load.

Put it back on on Auto. You are defeating the whole purpose of the hardware if the only reason you have it on manual it to stop it from having a variable frequency.

Also, make sure your Windows power plan is set to balanced. Ryzen does not like the performance power plan. AMD recommends using the Windows balanced plan for specific reasons having to do with the architecture.

It's possible that you're seeing the result of the offset as well, but doubtful, if you are using the latest version of Ryzen master. Make sure you have the MOST recent version of Ryzen master AND make sure you have the MOST recent BIOS version for your motherboard installed.
 
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Reactions: TJ Hooker
Yeah, don't get me wrong. I agree that an aftermarket cooler is a good idea, so long as it is a CAPABLE and QUALITY model, for ANY system, no matter WHAT you do on that system, however, when there is a cooling PROBLEM, you need to figure out WHAT the problem is BEFORE slapping a band aid on it with an aftermarket cooler because the problem could be serious and not related to the cooler at all.

Failing to correct the cooling issue on a system first could result in something being ruined or damaged, in which case that nice aftermarket cooler won't do you a lot of good until you replace whatever it is that you allowed to get destroyed because you preferred to throw a better cooler at a problem that should have been able to be at least marginally improved with the stock cooler. Enough to remain within compliance at least under normal circumstances.

I'm all for a better cooler though. Despite what some people and some reviews might say, I do not think the Wraith coolers are all that great. They work, true. They are better than the previous AMD stock coolers, true. But they don't work anywhere near as well as even a 212 EVO, which itself, kind of sucks, except on lower TDP systems or in cases where you don't mind high level fan noise anytime you are doing something more demanding than browsing the internet.
 
Solution