Question My CPU temp is 110 it’s shutting down

Aug 29, 2020
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I have bought my PC 6 months back
I use it for gaming and streaming
It works fine until I came across this issue
Generally it works under 55 temperature while gaming it ranges from 65 to 75
Now without load when I switch on it shows 89 and then after sometime goes to 100 if I run any program it switches off touching 110
I have changed the thermal paste also but no luck
Here’s my configuration:
AMD Ryzen 7 3700 - CPU
Msi X570A PRO - motherboard
Antec Neptune 240 liquid cooling
Msi 1660 super ventus- graphics
Antec 6500 SMP - power supply
Ant esports 511mt cabinet
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Even with absolutely no fans running at all, if the pump was working, you would not see temperatures that high. Especially not just from firing up the machine and no game or other type of load running.

Checking pump RPM in BIOS or monitoring software is a good place to start, but it doesn't necessarily mean much because OFTEN we've seen the magnetic lock between the pump and impeller not engaging (Or physically breaking on pumps that have a physical connection between the impeller and pump) so that there is an RPM signal but no water is flowing because the impeller is not turning.

It would be advisable to get a length of hose or tubing, and put the end of it on the pump and the other end in your ear and see if you can even hear anything humming at all. Check both hoses from the radiator to see if both are hot or one is slightly cooler than the other and maybe also if you can "feel" the pump running along the hose. Again, doesn't necessarily mean it's actually pumping anything though.
 
Reactions: sreekarcheb
Aug 29, 2020
4
0
10
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Sounds like a pump failure to me. How old is your AIO cooler?

I don't think there's much doubt that the pump is not pumping if you are seeing those temps without any load.
I have got the cooler six months back
Can you please tell how to check and fix the pumping issue
 
Aug 29, 2020
4
0
10
0
Even with absolutely no fans running at all, if the pump was working, you would not see temperatures that high. Especially not just from firing up the machine and no game or other type of load running.

Checking pump RPM in BIOS or monitoring software is a good place to start, but it doesn't necessarily mean much because OFTEN we've seen the magnetic lock between the pump and impeller not engaging (Or physically breaking on pumps that have a physical connection between the impeller and pump) so that there is an RPM signal but no water is flowing because the impeller is not turning.

It would be advisable to get a length of hose or tubing, and put the end of it on the pump and the other end in your ear and see if you can even hear anything humming at all. Check both hoses from the radiator to see if both are hot or one is slightly cooler than the other and maybe also if you can "feel" the pump running along the hose. Again, doesn't necessarily mean it's actually pumping anything though.
My cooler is also 6 months old.
One of the pump hose is hot than the other one.
I feel the vibration in pumps when PC is running maybe water’s running I don’t know.
How to check the magnetic lock?
 
Last edited:

mdd1963

Polypheme
Oddly enough, a 'quite warm hose' is not a good sign....; to me, it means the warm water is likely that pool of water sitting above the cores, stagnant, and not being circulated.... (despite some folks thinking that a warm hose is a good sign, and that a simple radiator with two or three fans could quickly cause a 20C drop in fluid temps as well as a $1000 chiller unit)

buzzing noises, vibration means the pump has power, but,the actual 'pumping' is suspect, given your 'hot hose/cold hose' scenario...IMO
 
Reactions: sreekarcheb

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
I would contact Antec about an RMA.

What case do you have and where is your radiator mounted? If your radiator is mounted in front, is the radiator positioned so that the hoses are at the top of the radiator or at the bottom?
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Ok. Well then it's unlikely that the problem is due to radiator placement or air trapping in the pump. Possible, but unlikely. More likely is that the unit simply shipped with excess air in the loop OR there was a manufacturing defect with the pump. There are always multiple possibilities but I think those are the MOST obviously probable ones if everything was working fine before and just suddenly, wasn't.
 

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