[SOLVED] My GPU is greatly underperforming… What now?

ThatSourMelon

Commendable
Apr 21, 2019
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1,715
I built my pc at the beginning of this year around February, and I was lucky enough to get an RTX 3080 at around MSRP at Micro Center, with the catch being it's open box. I got the exact model I wanted, and bought an extended 2 year warranty because I didn't want to be GPU-Less if it dies, because it was open box.

Since then, I've mostly been gaming, but also video production work. I got a valve Index, and all in all things have been rough. Weird game and computer crashes, 0.2fps occasionally in VR, which only seems to be fixed by toggling Smart Access Memory in BIOS, weird flashing lights and boot loop with flashing motherboard lights for 2-4 cycles. But what's been bothering me lately is not-expected VR performance. I can only get between a 90-100fps average in not-completely-simple games, which is good, I don't want to complain, but I have a 3080 and a Valve Index, and occasionally frame drops also hurt a lot. I have FPSVR, and even though my CPU is responsible for some of the low FPS, my GPU is responsible for the rest and the frame drops.

I ran a UserBenchmark test (https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/48470275), and it says my GPU is performing a lot lower than expected (I did not have any background programs running, I made sure to check on task manager, and I haven't overclocked or underclocked anything, other than XMP on ram and turbo boosting my cpu). I am using the latest drivers and updates (Windows 10), including Nvidia Studio and game drivers. This is my full parts list (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kXjHVc), and everything else is still performing as expected (except ram, I have enabled XMP profile, but it's only by a few percentage points so I don't really care). I did replace the thermal pads on my GPU (which I checked with Micro Center, it's still covered by the warranty) because it was running a little hotter than usual, but after the fact it now runs a little cooler than other cards of the same model, so it should have more thermal headroom, yet it's still massively underperforming, despite it being one of the best AIB cards.

I'm a little worried about the massive underperformance and occasional instability, since I bought the card open box idk what the person who had it before me did with it, but this wouldn't really be enough to warrant a return. Is there anything I can do? Is it normal and I was just somehow one of the people who lost the chip lottery? I checked with GPU-Z, the chip in it is a 3080.

edit: I disabled gpu overclocking and G-sync and ram a Heaven Benchmark 4.0 test and got a score of 1473.
 
Last edited:
Solution
I built my pc at the beginning of this year around February, and I was lucky enough to get an RTX 3080 at around MSRP at Micro Center, with the catch being it's open box. I got the exact model I wanted, and bought an extended 2 year warranty because I didn't want to be GPU-Less if it dies, because it was open box.

Since then, I've mostly been gaming, but also video production work. I got a valve Index, and all in all things have been rough. Weird game and computer crashes, 0.2fps occasionally in VR, which only seems to be fixed by toggling Smart Access Memory in BIOS, weird flashing lights and boot loop with flashing motherboard lights for 2-4 cycles. But what's been bothering me lately is not-expected VR performance. I can only...
I built my pc at the beginning of this year around February, and I was lucky enough to get an RTX 3080 at around MSRP at Micro Center, with the catch being it's open box. I got the exact model I wanted, and bought an extended 2 year warranty because I didn't want to be GPU-Less if it dies, because it was open box.

Since then, I've mostly been gaming, but also video production work. I got a valve Index, and all in all things have been rough. Weird game and computer crashes, 0.2fps occasionally in VR, which only seems to be fixed by toggling Smart Access Memory in BIOS, weird flashing lights and boot loop with flashing motherboard lights for 2-4 cycles. But what's been bothering me lately is not-expected VR performance. I can only get between a 90-100fps average in not-completely-simple games, which is good, I don't want to complain, but I have a 3080 and a Valve Index, and occasionally frame drops also hurt a lot. I have FPSVR, and even though my CPU is responsible for some of the low FPS, my GPU is responsible for the rest and the frame drops.

I ran a UserBenchmark test (https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/48470275), and it says my GPU is performing a lot lower than expected (I did not have any background programs running, I made sure to check on task manager, and I haven't overclocked or underclocked anything, other than XMP on ram and turbo boosting my cpu). I am using the latest drivers and updates (Windows 10), including Nvidia Studio and game drivers. This is my full parts list (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kXjHVc), and everything else is still performing as expected (except ram, I have enabled XMP profile, but it's only by a few percentage points so I don't really care). I did replace the thermal pads on my GPU (which I checked with Micro Center, it's still covered by the warranty) because it was running a little hotter than usual, but after the fact it now runs a little cooler than other cards of the same model, so it should have more thermal headroom, yet it's still massively underperforming, despite it being one of the best AIB cards.

I'm a little worried about the massive underperformance and occasional instability, since I bought the card open box idk what the person who had it before me did with it, but this wouldn't really be enough to warrant a return. Is there anything I can do? Is it normal and I was just somehow one of the people who lost the chip lottery? I checked with GPU-Z, the chip in it is a 3080.
Try this step by step (read till end):
  • Disconnect from internet
  • Uninstall gpu driver DDU (clean and do not restart).
  • Uninstall all the processors on device manager (should be 16 on yours, also when it asks for restart, click on no) and the chipset in control panel like this:
    unknown.png


  • Restart the pc to bios, and update to the latest bios. Then go to bios again after update and load default or optimized settings, find HPET or High Precision Event Timer and disable that, then save and exit.

  • boot up to windows and install the latest Chipset driver, reboot and go to power plan and choose amd ryzen balanced, then connect to internet.

  • Install the latest nvidia driver.

    *do this all offline until reboot after installing chipset driver, also you may reboot to bios after all of this to set the XMP (and previous settings you did). Download needed files (highlighted word) before doing step 1, do the step by orders.

  • Run cmd as admin, then do chkdsk /x /f /r, after that do sfc /scannow

  • And check windows update (and optional updates) if there is any and install them (except chipset in optional update). Enable hardware accelerated graphics scheduling (available in the latest windows update) in graphics settings and reboot, it should be like this:
    unknown.png


  • Make sure the psu connected to the gpu is 1 pcie cable per 1 slot (use main cable, not the branches/split) like this:
    unknown.png
 
Last edited:
Solution
I would definitely ddu and go through the basics on drivers. However any open box right now on a 3080 was likely returned either because of issues similar to what you are experiencing or the other EU did something really stupid with it (like an idiot overclock or hooked it up wrong) and did a no questions asked return on it. Open box is often "tested" by the folks in back by making sure it turns on, but not much more than that.
 
I would definitely ddu and go through the basics on drivers. However any open box right now on a 3080 was likely returned either because of issues similar to what you are experiencing or the other EU did something really stupid with it (like an idiot overclock or hooked it up wrong) and did a no questions asked return on it. Open box is often "tested" by the folks in back by making sure it turns on, but not much more than that.
If that’s the case am I out of luck? I assume buying the gpu degraded isn’t really terms for a return and covered under the extended warranty?
 
Have you overclocked your cpu at all? (it's just that its base speed should be running at 3.6Hz but your userbenchmark it says 4.05Hz?) Aslo, did you buy 2 separate RAM kits or did you buy them as a quad kit?
I’m boosting my cpu, my motherboards setting are “Asus optimal”, so not really overclocking and still under the manufacturers standards. I bought two dual ram kits.
 
Try this step by step (read till end):
  • Disconnect from internet
  • Uninstall gpu driver DDU (clean and do not restart).
  • Uninstall all the processors on device manager (should be 16 on yours, also when it asks for restart, click on no) and the chipset in control panel like this:
    unknown.png


  • Restart the pc to bios, and update to the latest bios. Then go to bios again after update and load default or optimized settings, find HPET or High Precision Event Timer and disable that, then save and exit.

  • boot up to windows and install the latest Chipset driver, reboot and go to power plan and choose amd ryzen balanced, then connect to internet.

  • Install the latest nvidia driver.

    *do this all offline until reboot after installing chipset driver, also you may reboot to bios after all of this to set the XMP (and previous settings you did). Download needed files (highlighted word) before doing step 1, do the step by orders.

  • Run cmd as admin, then do chkdsk /x /f /r, after that do sfc /scannow

  • And check windows update (and optional updates) if there is any and install them (except chipset in optional update). Enable hardware accelerated graphics scheduling (available in the latest windows update) in graphics settings and reboot, it should be like this:
    unknown.png


  • Make sure the psu connected to the gpu is 1 pcie cable per 1 slot (use main cable, not the branches/split) like this:
    unknown.png
Thanks for the detailed response! I’ll try to do that later, I’ve already reinstalled my gpu drivers to try and fix another issue earlier, and I also updated all of my motherboards and gpu drivers last week, but I’ll try and do everything else!
 
I’m boosting my cpu, my motherboards setting are “Asus optimal”, so not really overclocking and still under the manufacturers standards. I bought two dual ram kits.
''Boosting'' using what, what do you mean? Also, mixing RAM kits is very hit and miss and unfortunately it looks like a miss on your userbenchmark result, it's running at the right speed but it may impact your performance in other ways, so I believe, (someone can explain it better than me.) And finally, just worth a mention, I noticed your boot drive only has 43GB of storage left, i also believe this can impact on your system, is there anything you can clear on there?
 
''Boosting'' using what, what do you mean? Also, mixing RAM kits is very hit and miss and unfortunately it looks like a miss on your userbenchmark result, it's running at the right speed but it may impact your performance in other ways, so I believe, (someone can explain it better than me.) And finally, just worth a mention, I noticed your boot drive only has 43GB of storage left, i also believe this can impact on your system, is there anything you can clear on there?
I’m running my cpu at boost clock, “Asus optimal” in BIOS. I’m also not mixing ram kits, they’re the exact same model, I made sure to pick up the same ones. Lastly, ya I did clean up, and this has been an ongoing problem for months, I don’t think that would be the solution since it has been happening regardless of storage.
 
If that’s the case am I out of luck? I assume buying the gpu degraded isn’t really terms for a return and covered under the extended warranty?
Not necessary, but unless you are able to make a no questions asked return to the retailer you would need to go after the manufacturers warranty. Depending on the manufacturer that can be a relatively painless, but time-consuming process, or a complete run around. Regardless for what that 3080 costs I would definitely be exploring my options.
 
I’m running my cpu at boost clock, “Asus optimal” in BIOS. I’m also not mixing ram kits, they’re the exact same model, I made sure to pick up the same ones. Lastly, ya I did clean up, and this has been an ongoing problem for months, I don’t think that would be the solution since it has been happening regardless of storage.
The only exact same memory modules come in a kit.
2 different kits may or may not work together. As they may or may not be exactly the same as another kit.
Also your SSD should never be more than 80% full. Once it reaches this point performance nose dives.
 
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Not necessary, but unless you are able to make a no questions asked return to the retailer you would need to go after the manufacturers warranty. Depending on the manufacturer that can be a relatively painless, but time-consuming process, or a complete run around. Regardless for what that 3080 costs I would definitely be exploring my options.
Wouldn’t that put me back in the middle of finding a GPU again? I got the gpu for ~$750, so if they don’t replace it and I get a refund that would probably get me a 3070 or 3070 ti if I’m really lucky, so that’ll just be a downgrade, and may not be viable.
 
Wouldn’t that put me back in the middle of finding a GPU again? I got the gpu for ~$750, so if they don’t replace it and I get a refund that would probably get me a 3070 or 3070 ti if I’m really lucky, so that’ll just be a downgrade, and may not be viable.
If the card is defective I don't see any other real options. Repair is almost non-existent outside of inhouse manufacturer refurb, which is what you will more than likely end up with manufacturer warranty. Even going that path again it is time consuming and you may end up chasing your tale trying to get a fix. This is even more compounded due to the fact that it is a performance issue and not a completely dead card. Even if this were not an open box you are still going to be dealing with the shortage issues so exchange is difficult, especially on a 3080.
 
If the card is defective I don't see any other real options. Repair is almost non-existent outside of inhouse manufacturer refurb, which is what you will more than likely end up with manufacturer warranty. Even going that path again it is time consuming and you may end up chasing your tale trying to get a fix. This is even more compounded due to the fact that it is a performance issue and not a completely dead card. Even if this were not an open box you are still going to be dealing with the shortage issues so exchange is difficult, especially on a 3080.
Yep. I feel like my best option would to just stick it out until the shortage ends, and my warranty is still hopefully valid. That or I can probably trade it for a 3080 ti or something with someone who just wants it for its mining capabilities since it’s a non-LHR card.