[SOLVED] My PSU died, after connecting new one PC is beyond slow and unusuable.

Jan 5, 2021
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After typing in password PC loads for few minutes (Before it took a moment, SSD), afterwards I cannot do anything besides open folders and create txt files.
Anything else won't start or will cause screen to flicker.

Old PSU: Core X Stream OCZ-CXS500W New PSU: Vero L3 600W (SPC266) CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 GPU: Geforce GTX 970 Windows 10 Enterprise 2016 LTSB Ram 8GB

I made sure to connect everything like on picture of previous PSU, redid it 3 times.

I am not using any connectors/adapters, everything goes straight from PSU.

Hdmi cable is for sure connected to GPU and not motherboard slot

If I boot from safe mode I won't be able to even open cmd or device manager.

Getting messages such as (safe mode only):

Microsoft Managment Console: Not enough storage is available to complete this operation



DDE Server Window: explorer.exe - System Warning Unknown Hard error


Any idea what might be causing all this?
 
Solution
The old power supply was VERY, VERY old. The new SilentiumPC unit is not very good quality, and I'd return it and look for something better if that's an option for you, but it's "probably" not the cause of this issue UNLESS it's actually a used unit.

If the PSU was smoked then there is every possibility of OTHER damage in the system, such as to drives, etc.

I'd unplug everything, with the power off, unplug all drives, remove the graphics card and move the display cable to the motherboard video output, remove all but one stick of RAM and make sure that stick is installed in either the DDR4_1 or A2 slot for two DIMM slot boards or the 2nd slot over from the CPU for most other boards.

Which, by the way, what model is the motherboard...
The old power supply was VERY, VERY old. The new SilentiumPC unit is not very good quality, and I'd return it and look for something better if that's an option for you, but it's "probably" not the cause of this issue UNLESS it's actually a used unit.

If the PSU was smoked then there is every possibility of OTHER damage in the system, such as to drives, etc.

I'd unplug everything, with the power off, unplug all drives, remove the graphics card and move the display cable to the motherboard video output, remove all but one stick of RAM and make sure that stick is installed in either the DDR4_1 or A2 slot for two DIMM slot boards or the 2nd slot over from the CPU for most other boards.

Which, by the way, what model is the motherboard?

Then remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes and during those few minutes press the power button on the case continuously for about 10-20 seconds. Then put the CMOS battery back in, being sure to install it back in the same way it came out with the completely flat side facing up. Power back on and see if it is still acting funky when you try to get into and out of the BIOS. If it's ok, power back off and install the other memory module, if you have two of them. Then back into BIOS to see if there is a change. If not, back off, install the graphics card and move the display cable back to the graphics card. Into BIOS, any change? No? Then back off and reinstall the drive that has your operating system on it. Repeat for each attached drive. If nothing seems to make the difference between working normally and not working normally, then I'd probably recommend doing a clean install of Windows.

If reattaching one of the drives is the problem, then test them using Seatools for Windows (Short DST (Drive self test) and long generic (Extended test).

If from the start, with only very minimal hardware attached you have problems, then it is PROBABLY the motherboard, but keep in mind, there's always a slim chance that it's still the power supply because for one, that PSU is not very good and for another there's always a chance it's the power supply in EVERY possible scenario, even with a brand new one. I'd also do EVERYTHING outlined at BOTH of the following links if necessary.



 
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Solution
Jan 5, 2021
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I tried using my SSD on friends computer, it was slows just like on my pc.
So I formatted it and installed windows, everything works fine so far.

Thanks for help.
 
I'd probably recommend doing a clean install of Windows.
That was one of my recommendations, so I'm glad it worked out, however, in the future please keep in mind that what you did was probably not the best way of determining if something was wrong with the drive or not because you really can't take a Windows installation from one system and install it in another system that has entirely different hardware and expect it to work correctly. It just doesn't work that way.

Unless the second system uses exactly the same motherboard chipset, storage controllers and other hardware, there is every probability that it will have problems running a Windows installation meant for a different configuration. It's good that it worked out for you, but for future reference you should know that taking a Windows installation from one system and putting it in another one is really not acceptable whether for troubleshooting OR if you've just upgraded all the hardware and are putting the drive back into a system where you've changed everything. Different hardware platform should pretty much always require a clean install of Windows if you want to avoid problems.
 
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Jan 5, 2021
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I got to it with your method of resetting battery and plugging things one by one.
After first battery reset attempt I could only get my power button to light up and fans to spin briefly, I couldn't even get to BIOS so I tried repeating this procedure several times with no changes.
Later I changed RAM from slot 1 to 3 and plugged in another RAM to slot 4. (They were originally in slot 3 and 4 on old setup) did the reset procedure and it worked, not sure if its connected.

I was left with SSD being the suspect, I didn't want to believe that my PSU fried my windows so I took it to friends PC and he had same symptoms as I did on my PC (super slow, memory errors), didn't know it's not a reliable method of checking. Will keep it in mind for future.

As to your suggestion to return Silentium, I will keep it just because I need this PC for 3-4 more months so I don't want to invest into it and bother with refunds, packaged arrival etc.
Got it only because of high review count, score and low price.
I was already upset that I have to buy new PSU since I am saving money for laptop which will suit my new lifestyle much more.