Need advice on diagnosing and fixing a car stuck in a garage

[Cinders1]

Vehicle: 1997 Acura Integra LS
Issue: The car wont start. Had to jump the battery recently, but it ran fine after. I drove to work, and when I tried to start it to go home nothing happened. No sound at all, no clicks, no cranking, no turning, just the sound of the key turning in the ignition.
I have tried:
trying to Jump it had no change. Still no cranking, clicking, or turning. Also, the lights and radio turn on, and don't look faded as though they weren't getting enough power.
Checked the fuses for ignition and the inside fuse box, and checked the fuses in the engine fuse box. Nothing blown.

I believe it is the starter or ignition but I'm not a huge car guy. I did notice the ignition seemed to be getting finicky. I sometimes had to turn the ignition on, then back to off, then on again. But it would start up just fine. No odd stuttering once it engaged. So most likely the ignition?

The other issue is the car is stuck in a sub level garage that no local tow trucks can fit into, a 5'5 clearance. The ramp out is too steep to push it. My insurance has told me they can't help find a tow. I'll call around and see if any out of network towing companies can help but I don't expect there are any. I even called the parking garage itself, and they said they didn't know of anyone who can tow out of there. I don't know how I would get it to a shop aside from getting someone I know with a towing capacity vehicle (and apparatus to tow) to drag it to the street. I'll look into it of course.

So the best solution is I fix it inside the garage, preferably before the parking garage charges me a fortune.

Edit: managed to push it into winch range, and we got it out. (barely). Ill update with what the cause is when I find out

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, unlike many vehicles, but like many imports, the ignition switch is not a column mounted module that is actuated by a linkage rod which is moved by the ignition lock cylinder. It's actually a small round switch and a attached pigtail harness with a couple of connectors that is located behind the ignition lock cylinder. I've not done one on your model of vehicle but have done many that are similar and honestly it could go either way, fairly easy or extremely difficult. Youtube is probably your friend on this one if you end up replacing it yourself.

It's sound to me very likely that it's the problem but it would be a good idea to try and manually trigger the starter by jumping the solenoid terminals. I don't know the exact procedure/terminals on this vehicle either, but again you can likely find that information elsewhere online. If the starter cranks by manually energizing the solenoid, then it's almost a certainty that the ignition switch is to blame. If not, then removal of the starter and bench testing it yourself or taking it to one of the part stores for testing would be the next step.

Another option, which would likely be in line with the cost of tow considering the situation would be to find a local reputable mobile mechanic that could come and perform the testing on site and provide your with a confirmed diagnosis at which time you could simply pay them for the diagnosis and perform the repairs yourself or simply have them go ahead and fix it where it sits so you don't have to mess with it.

 

[ohio_buckeye]

Might test the alternator as well in case it’s not charging the battery. But depending how old you may need a new battery then go from there.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Might test the alternator as well in case it’s not charging the battery. But depending how old you may need a new battery then go from there.

Alternator wouldn't have anything to do with the car not wanting to even attempt to start, while being jumped or cranking a fully charged battery, as the op indicated. Also, they indicated that all the interior lights, stereo and other accessories work perfectly normal, which would not indicate a weak or dead battery.

 

[ohio_buckeye]

You are correct. I was thinking of how they had to jump it, but they did state they drove to work, which would have meant the alternator was giving juice.

 

[punkncat]

Alternator wouldn't have anything to do with the car not wanting to even attempt to start, while being jumped or cranking a fully charged battery, as the op indicated. Also, they indicated that all the interior lights, stereo and other accessories work perfectly normal, which would not indicate a weak or dead battery.

Well, actually...

If the alternator went out and wasn't charging the battery that could lead to damage where the battery can drop a cell. Quite common on lead-acid types. In that case one could charge all day long and without the amperage well of the battery even the starter and computer management systems can't get enough voltage.

Do you have a basic set of tools and enough money to purchase a new battery on faith?

Put a meter on the current battery and see if you have better than 12VDC. If so it may not be the end all be all of a 'good' battery but would take that up to Autozone and have them check it. They will do so for free. If that battery is bad get a new one and see if the car will crank. It is helpful with that meter to check battery voltage before hooking to car, check after for a parasitic draw with ignition off and things closed (glove box, doors, truck, etc.). On the new battery and it will crank then check with a meter to see if the battery terminals are showing high 13VDC up to around 14.1-3 If higher that can also be a problem. Probably would settle at ~13.3 with full battery and no load. Keep the meter on it for a moment if you are getting a reading such as to compare with the initial uncranked voltage. If it slowly drops it is typically alternator or similar issue.

At least running you can pull it out of the garage under its own power. Otherwise, rent a truck from Home Depot and purchase a really half decent tow strap with proper hooks and locks. Use the truck to pull the car by its tow hooks out of the garage to street level. Be aware that in some states it is legal to tow strap, and in others it is not.

Your other alternative is a mobile mechanic.