Well, for sure, I'm going to do something like that later
But NOW....
I'm going to celebrate! Idel temps of 35 degrees practicaly constant, I "pushed" the computer to installed office and it touched 40 at one point, but thats it. I guess this gives me room to overclock later if I feel like it, but I will consider water or a decent aftermarket cooler before that.
A big big big thank you to everyone who tried to help - because you did help. Not sure I could have got through this without the advice and some nice PM's!
Although, I will not be convinced that 30 second black screen (timed several times) is normal operation after post and before Windows logo. Even when it was overheating it wasnt doing that lol. Anyway's, time to go sort out a hundred and one wires that need securing, and some additional fans that want to play too
😀
Edit: oh yeah, post made with new computer, I'm sure it was faster because of it :lol:
Icandy,
I read through the thread, glad you got you system working reasonably, however, a few things.
My E6600 idles at 23.5'C, with a cheapo Intel factory HSF, so your idle temp still seems high.
You already figured out the HSF seating problem. A properly seated HSF should have caused the 3 lines of original thermal compound to heat up and "flow" into 1 single even layer between the CPU’s heat spreader and the HSF, filling the imperfections in the surfaces in the process. You should have also notice excess “globs” on the side of the CPU heat spreader that had been “squeezed out” when the compound was heat-softened.
With your current idle temp, it still sounds like you may have a bit of a seating problem though. Make sure, when you clean the old compound off, you clean both the HSF and the CPU heat spreader. I’m sure you already know this, but you must insure they are absolutely clean, i.e., no dust or grit on either surface. This stuff will act a shim preventing flat-even metal to metal contact, regardless if the HSF is mounted properly.
On the type of cleaner, I would strongly recommend staying away from carb cleaners, as well as commercial “wonder” cleaners such as goof off. They will do the job, and do it well, but they are petroleum based solvents, and can attack the protective coatings on the mobo as well as “wick” or seep into any gaps or crevasse’s causing other problems. Additionally, they can leave a residue which could cause long term problems, even if you are sure you cleaned it all off. I actually go back and re-clean surfaces with isopropyl alcohol that I’ve used this stuff on, to insure they are free of residue.
The same cautions apply to the acetones, ie. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), nail polish remover, etc. They may be conveniently available, and do a great job, but may also leave a little “surprise” behind. Paint thinners, varnish removers etc, will do the job as well, but again they can also attack other components and leave behind residue (depending on other components in the solution) which may lead to unpleasant surprises
Isopropyl alcohol is your best bet, as it will remove the compound and evaporates completely leaving no residue. If you must use an automotive solvent, use a chlorinated brake cleaner, but very sparingly. These will evaporate completely and leave no residue whatsoever, however, they are very aggressive solvents and highly flammable, not to mention less than “user friendly” in relation to your lungs.
Once you removed all of the residue, and the surfaces have dried, wipe them with a lint free cloth. Visually inspect the surfaces to insure there is no particulate matter resting on them. Also, look over the HSF contact surface. It will have been precision milled or ground, but may have nicks or burrs from shipping, packing, unpacking, previous installs etc etc etc.. If you note deep scratches, nicks or large burrs, you can take a “soft” finger nail “file” (you can use other stuff, but I assume you are familiar with these) and gently and slowly work the burr/nick down. Gently and slowly are essential, as to avoid rounding or dimpling the HSF contact surface. If you have to do this, clean the surface again when you are done, and wipe it with the lint free cloth. The CPU heat spreader may appear to have some surface scratches, but you won’t need to mess with it. It is made of stainless steel, and any scratches will have caused much less surface deformation on the stainless than scratches on the HSF’s much softer aluminum or copper. (unless you happen to be using a HSF with a stainless contact flat)
When you are ready, apply a thin line of thermal compound the HSF. You may spread it with your finger, if you desire, but make sure you finger is clean (use the alcohol or brake cleaner to remove the natural acids and oils that form on human skin), and free of particulate matter. Never use a cloth or paper to spread the compound. As an option, you may use a new clean latex (surgical) glove if you have one, or food type “plastic” wrap (fresh from the roll of course). No need to put the compound on both surfaces, it’s just a waste. When you’re ready, mate the surfaces and install the fasteners. Once this is done, wiggle the HSF slightly, in a twisting motion, to seat it. It wont move very much at all (if it does, something’s wrong) Never try to “wobble” the HSF side to side. Reconnect the power, turn it on and check those temps!
Doing this should insure maximum metal to metal contact, and thus, maximum heat dissipation.
Good luck
Peace
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