Question Need help determining where the black screen problem is caused.

Sep 15, 2020
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Hello everyone. This is my first thread. There is a problem with my computer that I could not solve. I cannot even determine where the problem is caused. I would be glad if you could help.

Here is my set-up:
Msi Z87-Gd65 Gaming Motherboard
Intel Core i7 4770K
Asus GTX760 DirectCU-II O.C. GDDR5 2GB 256Bit
GSKILL 8GB (2x4GB) RipjawsX DDR3 1866MHz CL9 1.5V Dual Kit
WD Blue 1TB SSD + WD 1TB HDD
Cooler Master Gx 80 Plus Bronze 750W PSU (4 years old, in good condition)
Cooler Master HYPER 212EVO
Cooler Master Haf 912 Advance Midt.


My computer, which worked fine until a week ago, suddenly went to a grey screen while playing a game and just got stuck. There was no error text etc on the screen, only a solid gray screen. I restarted the computer from the reset button and this time it never turned on. More precisely, it comes up to the windows logo, but remains on a black screen after this logo. When I restarted with the button a few more times, the following blue screen came up:



I tried Startup Repair from the options on this screen did not work. Then I tried system restore, this time the computer was turned on. But after a while, the same problem happened while playing games. This time I formatted the computer. It worked normally for a day, then the same problem happened again. After the third format, I installed all the drivers and did all the updates of windows and gpu, but the same problem occurred. This time, instead of formatting, I reset the bios, and opened cmd from the advanced options on the blue screen and tried mdsched.exe command. This time the computer turns on, boots to windows. But now randomly a black screen appears and for example when you open Fortnite, it stucks on a white screen. Nothing works except the reset button.

What do you guys think could be causing this problem? If it's a hardware issue, how does it work properly for a while after formatting? If it's a software problem, why format doesn't fix it? Very interesting.

Thanks in advance for your help.

NOTES:
*I am using the OC Genie button of the motherboard activated. So the CPU is overclocked and working on 4.20Ghz.
*I am using Windows 10 64 bit.
 
Last edited:

ben001

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Hi, :)

I hope your problem gets fixed soon.

We need to apply various ways to find the cause. It probably your software or your hardware, not known yet.

  1. Let's start by taking off your GPU from the motherboard and run the system.
  2. Make sure if you haven't missed any important updates from the windows. You can run your system doing general tasks for a few hours to see if the problem persists.
  3. Try to download HWmonitor, observe the temperatures as well. Check if you find any abnormalities.
Are you using the Seasonic GX model?.

and, welcome to tom's forum!
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Also:

Update your post to include full system hardware specs.

Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition.

Next time that Windows successfully boots take a look in Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Look for error codes, warnings, and even informational events that precede or correspond with the black screens, grey screens, and stuck white screens.
 
Sep 15, 2020
11
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Also:

Update your post to include full system hardware specs.

Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition.

Next time that Windows successfully boots take a look in Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Look for error codes, warnings, and even informational events that precede or correspond with the black screens, grey screens, and stuck white screens.
Thanks for the answer. I edited my post in the way you told me. And I checked the Reliability History and Event Viewer but I didn't understand that much about the errors. I am linking the screenshots if you would like to take a look.



Hi, :)

I hope your problem gets fixed soon.

We need to apply various ways to find the cause. It probably your software or your hardware, not known yet.

  1. Let's start by taking off your GPU from the motherboard and run the system.
  2. Make sure if you haven't missed any important updates from the windows. You can run your system doing general tasks for a few hours to see if the problem persists.
  3. Try to download HWmonitor, observe the temperatures as well. Check if you find any abnormalities.
Are you using the Seasonic GX model?.

and, welcome to tom's forum!
Thank you so much for the answer! I am starting take off the GPU and I'll let you know after using the pc for a couple of hours without the gpu. And I downloaded the HWmonitor. Here are the results (It seems fine but I'm not sure):



Also, I updated my first post for the PSU information and the Overclock information.
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
I will start by addressing the PSU. 4 years old is pushing designed EOL (End of life). Especially if the PSU is continually providing high/near peak wattage values.

The errors that I see indicate power (PSU) problems and a power problem likely corrupted update files during a Windows update and/or the C++ application installation.

As a PSU ages its ability to provide power degrades and times of peak power demand will exceed what the PSU can provide. All sorts of problems arise depending on the circumstances; hardware installed, what voltage(s)/rails are being affected.

A history of constant high power demands (overclocking etc.) will further shorten PSU life.

I also noted three things in CPUID:

1) TMPIN5 indicates a very high temperature somewhere.

2) AUXFANIN2 is showing a much lower RPM rate than the other monitored/measured fans.

3) Drive D: was flagged being at 81% full as I understand the utilization parameter. C: is at 24% My general practice is to keep any given drive somewhere within 70-80% capacity. There are other ideas/best practices etc.. regarding the matter. Has Drive D: been cleaned and/or (if a HDD) defragmented?

[Remember that all important data should be backed before doing any drive house-keeping activities. Verify that the data is both recoverable and readable. All the more so with a problem system such as you are experiencing.]

Start by identifying what TMPIN5 is measuring on your system and what AUXFANIN2 is cooling. Look for a relationship or link.
 
Sep 15, 2020
11
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10
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Hi, :)

I hope your problem gets fixed soon.

We need to apply various ways to find the cause. It probably your software or your hardware, not known yet.

  1. Let's start by taking off your GPU from the motherboard and run the system.
  2. Make sure if you haven't missed any important updates from the windows. You can run your system doing general tasks for a few hours to see if the problem persists.
  3. Try to download HWmonitor, observe the temperatures as well. Check if you find any abnormalities.
Are you using the Seasonic GX model?.

and, welcome to tom's forum!
Okey i have been using the computer for e-mail, youtube etc daily tasks for 2.5 hours without the GPU. And it's working completely fine. But I am not sure if it's a problem of the graphics card or PSU (Or something else). So before buying a new component, i really want to make sure what exactly is the problem.

I will start by addressing the PSU. 4 years old is pushing designed EOL (End of life). Especially if the PSU is continually providing high/near peak wattage values.

The errors that I see indicate power (PSU) problems and a power problem likely corrupted update files during a Windows update and/or the C++ application installation.

As a PSU ages its ability to provide power degrades and times of peak power demand will exceed what the PSU can provide. All sorts of problems arise depending on the circumstances; hardware installed, what voltage(s)/rails are being affected.

A history of constant high power demands (overclocking etc.) will further shorten PSU life.

I also noted three things in CPUID:

1) TMPIN5 indicates a very high temperature somewhere.

2) AUXFANIN2 is showing a much lower RPM rate than the other monitored/measured fans.

3) Drive D: was flagged being at 81% full as I understand the utilization parameter. C: is at 24% My general practice is to keep any given drive somewhere within 70-80% capacity. There are other ideas/best practices etc.. regarding the matter. Has Drive D: been cleaned and/or (if a HDD) defragmented?

[Remember that all important data should be backed before doing any drive house-keeping activities. Verify that the data is both recoverable and readable. All the more so with a problem system such as you are experiencing.]

Start by identifying what TMPIN5 is measuring on your system and what AUXFANIN2 is cooling. Look for a relationship or link.
My PSU is even older than 4 years actually. It's like 4 years and a half. I never thought about that can be the problem. As I said above, today I used my computer without the GPU and it's working fine. But I don't know if it's a problem of the GPU or it's because I took off the GPU so PSU is working fine because of that (or something else). And I never tried to play a game without the GPU. Is there a way to test my PSU or what can I do to determine the exact problem. Or I am even worried what if the problem is both PSU and GPU.

And about the TMPIN5, they say it sounds like an external temperature input that is not currently plugged in. These will sometimes show a max temp of 127C if not plugged in they say on internet. And AUXFANIN2 is the big fan of my PC case. I guess it's rpm is lower because of that maybe. (I don't know why, I am not really sure sorry)

And about the drive D, should I back-up all the data and then format and defragment the disk D? If yes, I would like to do it after I fix this problem of my computer first. Do you think that this could be a part of the problem or can I do it after? I am saying it because it has a big amount of data inside and I don't have enough space to back them all up for now. But windows is in C (the SSD).

Thank you all for the support again!
 

ben001

Distinguished
Jun 17, 2013
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Okey i have been using the computer for e-mail, youtube etc daily tasks for 2.5 hours without the GPU. And it's working completely fine. But I am not sure if it's a problem of the graphics card or PSU (Or something else). So before buying a new component, i really want to make sure what exactly is the problem.



My PSU is even older than 4 years actually. It's like 4 years and a half. I never thought about that can be the problem. As I said above, today I used my computer without the GPU and it's working fine. But I don't know if it's a problem of the GPU or it's because I took off the GPU so PSU is working fine because of that (or something else). And I never tried to play a game without the GPU. Is there a way to test my PSU or what can I do to determine the exact problem. Or I am even worried what if the problem is both PSU and GPU.

And about the TMPIN5, they say it sounds like an external temperature input that is not currently plugged in. These will sometimes show a max temp of 127C if not plugged in they say on internet. And AUXFANIN2 is the big fan of my PC case. I guess it's rpm is lower because of that maybe. (I don't know why, I am not really sure sorry)

And about the drive D, should I back-up all the data and then format and defragment the disk D? If yes, I would like to do it after I fix this problem of my computer first. Do you think that this could be a part of the problem or can I do it after? I am saying it because it has a big amount of data inside and I don't have enough space to back them all up for now. But windows is in C (the SSD).

Thank you all for the support again!
Earlier today I have gone through with your details and yes it is your PSU where it all started as already mentioned and explained by Ralston. :)

I was also trying to ask the model of your power supply before, anyways... We could also help you to decide if you can follow the link below
: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-tier-list-psucultists.3624094/
 
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Reactions: sfx5
Sep 15, 2020
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Earlier today I have gone through with your details and yes it is your PSU where it all started as already mentioned and explained by Ralston. :)

I was also trying to ask the model of your power supply before, anyways... We could also help you to decide if you can follow the link below
: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-tier-list-psucultists.3624094/
Ahh okey so I will buy a new PSU. I'll take a look to the link and update you from here again. In my first reply, I actually told you that I updated my first post for the PSU information and the Overclock information. But sorry for the lack of communication. Thanks a lot for the support! :)
 
Sep 15, 2020
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Always be backing up data whether the system is properly working or not. Anything could happen at any time and postponing backups until the problem is fixed could end badly.

As for a new PSU - do your research starting with the following link:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html
Earlier today I have gone through with your details and yes it is your PSU where it all started as already mentioned and explained by Ralston. :)

I was also trying to ask the model of your power supply before, anyways... We could also help you to decide if you can follow the link below
: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-tier-list-psucultists.3624094/
I have an important update. I manually tested the psu with a multimeter and all the currents from all the pins looks correct. Including the ac current that connects to the psu and the 4pins and 8pins for the CPU and GPU (220V, 5V, 3V, 12V etc.) But I am not an expert of the working principles of PSU's so I am not sure if this definitely means that my PSU is fine or it can be another problem of the PSU that I don't know? I just want to make sure before buying a new PSU.
 

ben001

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Try to test the PSU cord/plug and see what's the voltage reading says on your DMM. I will also try using another efficient power supply and run your system with that before purchasing a new one.

and understanding the quality of CM GX750, It would be surprising for me if it serves more than 3 years.
 
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Sep 15, 2020
11
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Try to test the PSU cord/plug and see what's the voltage reading says on your DMM. I will also try using another efficient power supply and run your system with that before purchasing a new one.

and understanding the quality of CM GX750, It would be surprising for me if it serves more than 3 years.
Thanks for the answer. I just checked both the power plug and cord of the PSU and I am getting around 260V which is not usual for this house. Interesting. Unfortunately I don't have any other PSU for testing.
 

ben001

Distinguished
Jun 17, 2013
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Knowing your previous post, at moment you can still use that power supply for any office setup which has any minimal tasks.

and, you're welcome :)

recommendation-wise, I will not ask you to use it for long.
 
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Sep 15, 2020
11
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Always be backing up data whether the system is properly working or not. Anything could happen at any time and postponing backups until the problem is fixed could end badly.

As for a new PSU - do your research starting with the following link:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html
Are you still thinking that it's about the PSU after my latest update? If yes, today I will buy a new PSU.

Knowing your previous post, at moment you can still use that power supply for any office setup which has any minimal tasks.

and, you're welcome :)

recommendation-wise, I will not ask you to use it for long.
So you think that I can use this PSU but not in my computer? Sorry I didn't get it haha. So if you think that my PSU is okey, then what is the problem of my computer I mean I still need to determine the problem.
 

ben001

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Are you still thinking that it's about the PSU after my latest update? If yes, today I will buy a new PSU.



So you think that I can use this PSU but not in my computer? Sorry I didn't get it haha. So if you think that my PSU is okey, then what is the problem of my computer I mean I still need to determine the problem.
You need to buy a new PSU anyway. As you are already out of warranty and if anything worse happens including your power supply you might lose any of your key components.

Based on the evidence you provided, your current PSU is not in the condition to handle an overclocked processor with a GPU when you are using heavy tasks like gaming it draws more power from your power supply. So basically you're putting stress on your components and if they don't get what they need it will lead to a negative reaction.

Coming to your thoughts, office machines generally have lighter tasks and I found you ran your system for some hours w/o GPU while doing general tasks at the background which caused no issue. As time passes by, your PSU capacitors will also deteriorate. You may go through with a link to understand better about a power supply:
.

I would be happy to consider a stress test for your PSU to check their efficiency and stability, if everything is right then only I will be in a position to change my view.

Hope this helps. :)
 
Reactions: sfx5
Sep 15, 2020
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You need to buy a new PSU anyway. As you are already out of warranty and if anything worse happens including your power supply you might lose any of your key components.

Based on the evidence you provided, your current PSU is not in the condition to handle an overclocked processor with a GPU when you are using heavy tasks like gaming it draws more power from your power supply. So basically you're putting stress on your components and if they don't get what they need it will lead to a negative reaction.

Coming to your thoughts, office machines generally have lighter tasks and I found you ran your system for some hours w/o GPU while doing general tasks at the background which caused no issue. As time passes by, your PSU capacitors will also deteriorate. You may go through with a link to understand better about a power supply:
.

I would be happy to consider a stress test for your PSU to check their efficiency and stability, if everything is right then only I will be in a position to change my view.

Hope this helps. :)
Yes I made the stress test and the pc is failing. Thank you so much for helping :) I am going to buy a PSU this evening. I was thinking Cooler Master MWE 750W 80+ Gold or Corsair CX750 80+ Bronze 750W or Corsair TX750M 80+ Gold Semimodular 750W.

Which one would you recommend?
I am thinking to change my graphics card for an high level one and upgrade the ram to 32gb and buy a liquid cooler. Do you think that 750W will be enough for my system in the future? Or should I go for an 850W like Corsair TX850M 80+ Gold Semimodular 850W?
 

ben001

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Good to know. :)

Both are good, but thinking of the future I would go with a range between 750-850W PSU (whichever is cheaper). Looking at your efficiency, anything starting from + gold and above. I found something solid if you can spend $15-20 extra for:
PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Fractal Design Ion+ 760 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $129.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-17 13:40 EDT-0400

or, to get a little extra headroom:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.93 @ Newegg)
Total: $139.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-17 13:59 EDT-0400

That's your PSU.

Now, upgrading to DDR4 would be sensible if that is in your thoughts. This will make you change your processor and motherboard as well if you're ready to spend.
 
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Sep 15, 2020
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Last update. Finally I bought Corsair TX850M 80+ Gold Semi-Modular PSU and after replacing the old PSU with this one, I can definitely tell that the problem is gone! The computer works completely fine!

Thank you guys all very much :)
 

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