NEED HELP WITH WATERCOOLING

JonnyDough

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Can anyone tell me why my system is reporting a temp of 60C load (2X prime) on my Opty 185 when I have a Danger Den 4200 kit with 1/2" tubing and a Black Ice Xtreme Rad with 120mm PAPST fan @ 6490rpm?

Current OC voltage on the Opty is a mere 1.375 I should be able to crank this up to 1.5v+ on this water cooler.

I checked the AS5 under the waterblock and it seems just fine. It's a single loop to the CPU, no air in the line (used a T-line).

Flow seemed great/fast on the initial run to rid the line of air.

My room has an ambience of about 70-74F, and the case should be fairly cool. It houses a 640mb 8800GTS (which is two slot and exhales to the exterior of my case) and my case is a TT Kandalf, which has 2 big 120mm fans in front pushing air into the case.

Then there is the Papst fan on the radiator, and the along with the Enermax PSU expelling air in the top rear. 2gigs of Corsair ram which are running at low speeds are also there. So really, there should not be a heat problem.

I'm using a Foxconn (Winfast) motherboard NF4SK8AA-EKRS which has Winbond sensors on it.

Also, I should note that my loop goes from the output on the pump to the central fitting on the TDX CPU waterblock, and then from the off-center fitting on the block to the radiator, and then from the other radiator fitting back to the pump.

It's a small loop, but the radatior is fairly cool to the touch. I double checked the pump to make sure it's running, and it's hard to tell but I'm pretty sure it is.

I was getting better temps at 1.3v on my Zalman 9500cu air cooler.

Open to any suggestions, any help is appreciated.
 

JonnyDough

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REALLY early bump. **BUMP** I wish I could fix this tonight. :-( My temps are up to 65C while using Orthos w/ Gromacs. Eek! Right now I'm stable at 2.9 and I'd like to keep it here!
 

yomamafor1

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There's something wrong with your water flow. I highly recommend running a bleed test again. A radiator taking off the heat from a 60C CPU shouldn't just be "cool to touch".
 

The_Blood_Raven

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Bleed and clean the entire thing, which means scrubbing any sediment in the loop. A radiator should feel HOT! My GTX 480 is uncomfortably hot to the touch and my top GTX 240 is almost scolding when I use them. Check to see if your pump is on its last legs or not.
 

JonnyDough

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If I squeeze the line (tygon tubing) no bubbles move in the system. It seems to be air free. Is it possible to run the flow through the radiator in the wrong direction?
 

JonnyDough

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I thought that maybe I put too much pressure on the block with the springs and pushed on the chip or mobo sensors. I don't know if you can put pressure on a chip's sensors with downward force. I don't really think that there's too much there though or I'd crack the chip. The only real pressure is from the springs I think. Maybe it is too tight if the springs are pushed down all the way. I'll try loosening it.

I'm getting slightly different readings from some programs on things.

CoreTemp is reading a freq. of 221.54 x 10. Which translates to 2215.44. CPU-Z, Orthos, and SuperStep (Foxconn) however are reading what it should though, 2870mhz. So is CoreTemp inaccurate? I thought it was supposed to be the ultimate. I think I DL'd it straight from AMD's site. CoreTemp also seems to be reading higher temps than other programs too, although not much higher. It's taking the individual core temp as well, something other programs don't seem to be able to do. Orthos is running just fine without error going on 2hrs 15 min. CPU test only as I haven't touched the ram except to lower all settings on it.
 

JonnyDough

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The rad is warm to the touch, probably as hot as the inside of a dryer soon after use. I dropped the core voltage down to 1.3 (default) and am still at 2.87ghz. It seems the Opteron doesn't really need higher voltages, but from what I read online people were pushing 1.5 with better temps than me. Maybe it's all in my head or the chip sensors are a bit off. I don't know. I do know that higher volts don't seem to make much difference. I read a time or two about people getting 3.0+ with default voltages. I'm not sure what stepping my Opty is. I should find out.
 

yomamafor1

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I'm 99% sure its due to your flow problems. I used to run Q6600 @ 3.2Ghz with 2x120 rad, and when folding, it was by no mean "cool to the touch". The temperature under folding is a moderate 50C.

That's why most of us believe you have problems with water flow. Air bubbles are also likely to trap in places not readily accessible, such as radiator, or pump itself.

EDIT: Ok, so now it looks like your temperature is normal. The other possibility would be that your 1x120 rad is too small for the Opteron 185.
 

JonnyDough

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As I mentioned above prior to your post (it's possible you didn't have time to read it) the rad is hot now. I doubt bubbles moved inside the radiator, but maybe there were still some stuck in it and they moved out of the way or something. I would've thought the line would've still heated up though if the radiator was somehow not getting proper flow. It is hard to tell with this tygon though, it isn't really very thermally conductive. Temps seem to be better now, although it could be from my voltage drop. I'm clueless.
 

JonnyDough

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I attempted to seal up my cases PCI slots with covers and am drilling the holes out bigger below where the radiator fan is mounted to move it down a bit. It's being slightly blocked by the case and fan screws are too big for the holes. This should give it about 1/4" more air flow. We'll see how much that helps.
 

JonnyDough

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It's possible. I fixed my fan so it's completely clear to push air through the honeycomb mesh of my case. I also had dropped the voltage to 1.3 as mentioned. It seems to be a bit cooler, but still fairly high.
 

yomamafor1

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Then I'm pretty sure you need a bigger rad. A 2x120 rad will probably do.

One significant downside for watercooling is that it is very costly. Usually you get a much better result from a $50 air cooler than a $150 water cooling kit. however as you spend more ($200~$300 level), you'll start to see the benefits of it. Very expensive, very difficult to implement well, and return really varies depends on the setup.
 

JonnyDough

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The radiator is inside the case, not on the outside. I like it there, but I can see how it would be nicer on the outside. However, I have a TT Kandalf case and I'm not sure a dual 120 rad would fit on the outside of it. They have holes for water cooling on the case, but they're for TT's systems, which utilize much smaller diameter tubing. This will do I think, I'm running Prime 95 on both cores and maxing out around 60C or below. Of course, I have my 8800GTS 640 @ 100% fan which helps rid the card of heat via the rear blower instead of having it rise in the case onto the CPU block.