New AMD Computer Build Not Displaying Video

[Albert Szeliga]

Hello everyone. I have run into an issue with a computer I just built, where the display is not giving any response when trying to boot.

The monitor (tested and working) just displays "No Video Input."

Here is the build:

New Parts List

The power supply I am using is an old one from a previous computer, a WIN-400PS (Max 400W, using a 20+4 pin connector and a 4 pin 12V connector).

So all the cables have been checked and double checked. Upon clicking the power button, the fans start whirring and running but no image appears on the monitor.

I try to isolate the problem by removing some components and seeing if they are faulty. Removing the hard drive, video card, RAM etc. provides no luck.

Here are some areas that may be of concern:

1. The PSU I'm using has a 4 pin 12V connector, whereas the Mobo requires an 8 pin connection. Can this cause problems with starting up the computer?
Also, with the PSU, will it be able to support the Mobo with only 400W?

2. The processor uses an AM3+ socket. The Mobo supports this and is compatible but I noticed on the gigabyte website that "..To enable AM3+ AMD FX-Series CPU support, please update your motherboard with the most current BIOS found in your motherboard’s download section..."
Does this require me to first update the bios or it won't start?
And if that is the case, should I use a different processor just to update the bios first?
I feel that the computer should at least load into bios despite a slightly newer processor.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully I can get some assistance.

Cheers

 

[maestro0428]

Can you jump the psu? Is it functional? Also, in order to get that motherboard up to snuff, you need an older cpu to load the new bios with before you can install the new cpu. Stupid, I know.

 

[Memhorder]

Here is an excellent checklist that will keep you busy.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1893016/post-system-boot-video-output-troubleshooting-checklist.html

 

[Albert Szeliga]

The PSU is indeed functional. It worked on my old computer fine, and testing it now with a meter displays that it gives 12V. Also the fans run normally so it is running okay.

Darn I was hoping it wouldn't have to come to that. Are there any services that retailers do to "lend" an older CPU to update bios? I'm hoping not to spend much more money.

Thanks for the speedy reply.

 

[CelicaGT]

If the Mobo has an 8 pin, I would start there.

 

[Memhorder]

Think that 4 pin ain't gonna cut it. You need the 8

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Alright, so thank you for providing that checklist. Unfortunately I tried about everything on it already, to no success.

Hmm so the 8 pin may be the problem, if that's the case, is there any sort of converter I can purchase that will transfer the 4-pin to an 8-pin?

Thank you everyone for the support.

Edit: If I may have to purchase a new PSU in general, is it better I get more wattage? Is the current level (400W) too low?

 

[Memhorder]

there's something like this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3200/psu-147/4-pin_Molex_to_8-pin_12V_Power_Connector_PP-P4XEON.html

 

[CelicaGT]

I would suggest a good quality one in the 650 watt range, give you some headroom for later on. FX processors of any type are power hungry pigs, better safe than sorry.

 

[Memhorder]

Well you can use that PSU until you save up for another power supply. You got plenty headroom with it with that 65w GPU

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Okay then in that case I may try to purchase a cheap adapter to an 8-pin, then if that works and I know its a PSU issue, I will buy a new one for later on.

Thanks for the enlightenment. If anyone knows for a fact it may not be a problem with the PSU, don't hesitate to respond.

Cheers

 

[CelicaGT]

Well you can use that PSU until you save up for another power supply. You got plenty headroom with it with that 65w GPU

Outside of the old PSU's age I would tend to agree, assuming the adapter works. I just arbitrarily chose 650 watt, it's the sweet spot for price it seems, well at least when I bought mine.

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Hmm I will look into PSU's in the upcoming days it seems. In the meanwhile, would an adapter such as this one work for my purpose?

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/startech-startech-eps-adapter-eps48adap-eps48adap/10211087.aspx?path=15db3c822252633a5378291165e50506en02

Thanks again.

 

[Memhorder]

Well you can use that PSU until you save up for another power supply. You got plenty headroom with it with that 65w GPU

Outside of the old PSU's age I would tend to agree, assuming the adapter works. I just arbitrarily chose 650 watt, it's the sweet spot for price it seems, well at least when I bought mine.

A new 650w power supply couldn't hurt either with a new build because chances are that old ones gonna fail sooner and probably less efficient. I'm just saying in the meantime grab that cheap little adapter and get a little more use out of oldie. Then after that and new one goes in he can still use the old one for testing or even backup

 

[Albert Szeliga]

After some more research I stumbled upon a similar thread:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1962677/mobo-cpu-compatibility-gigabyte-78lmt-usb3-6300.html

The generally well received answer was that the AM3+ processor should do *enough* to run the bios just fine, despite the Mobo not having a properly updated bios. With that being said, I can rule out incompatibility between processor and Mobo.

Looks like the PSU will probably be the issue with not enough power being sent to the processor. Will update once I try the adapter and see how it changes things.

 

[Paul17041993]

I don't remember seeing the 7xx chipsets being compatible with FX, did you check the compatibility on the gigabyte website?

and no, you don't need a 8 pin CPU connector at all, a 4pin will work fine even on boards like the crosshair V that has both a 4pin and 8pin socket (I had to use a 550W PSU temporarily a couple times).

a 400W PSU is also enough to run a 6300 anyway, its more the GPU and/or overclocking scenarios that it becomes a concern.

have you got a speaker attached to the mobo's frontpanel (buttons and lights) header? this will help debug and it should be playing a beep code in the case of a fault.

last hint, you may need to RMA the motherboard for a refund and change with a better one, or have it flashed with a working BIOS, or replaced for being defective.

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Yep the processor should be compatible, I did indeed do a check on the official website.

Hmm if the 4 pin connector and PSU is fine then I am really stumped about this motherboard.

I did have the speaker and lights connected to the header, although no audible noise could be heard when the computer was turned on.

So it may be a poor motherboard choice? Would it be possible to flash the BIOS at a computer specialty store?

 

[Memhorder]

Well please let us know if this works or not. Your manual says a 500w minimum but I don't see how 400w isn't enough for that system. Also the manual doesn't say whether a 4 pin will work with 8 pin cpu jack. Some motherboard do accept that some don't but it doesn't specify. If it's 8 pin I would use an 8 pin.

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Well please let us know if this works or not. Your manual says a 500w minimum but I don't see how 400w isn't enough for that system. Also the manual doesn't say whether a 4 pin will work with 8 pin cpu jack. Some motherboard do accept that some don't but it doesn't specify. If it's 8 pin I would use an 8 pin.

Thanks for going and reading part of the manual! You are right, 500W is minimum but just to turn on the BIOS I cant imagine I would use too much wattage.

I should also update that when turning on the computer, sometimes it turns off within a few seconds of pressing the power button. Could this isolate the problem to PSU related?

 

[Memhorder]

well if you did that checklist your last resort is bread boarding it. A new power supply couldn't hurt and hopefully when you get it it's not the motherboard. It's possible that one could be a return and resold for the age of chip set it is. To avoid any type of headaches you could RMA the board and buy new psu. I know that sounds bad but it would be better than getting one and finding the other is at fault

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Yep I think the PSU or a Mobo problem is my only lead here. Thanks again

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Okay after further research, and before buying a new PSU, I have read that other users also had similar booting problems with my motherboard.

Their issues were that the RAM was clocked at 1600 MHz (similar to the Kingston HyperX Ram I am using) and the motherboard only supports 1333+. Would this be an issue for starting up the computer for the first time?

Thanks and sorry for all the trouble.

 

[Albert Szeliga]

UPDATE: Progress has been made. I disconnected all the non essentials like hard drive, video card, etc. Only the CPU fan and Power was connected. RAM was put it the DDR_1 and DDR_3 spot again. A beep was heard! The screen turned on. It asked to reset to "last known good BIOS configuration". I was so thrilled I actually missed it and the computer restarted haha.

But it seems that moving the RAM around actually did the trick. If anyone has similar issues I suggest trying different RAM or to move it into different slots to see what works.

UPDATE 2: The computer now *rarely* boots Into a window that says "Disk Boot Failure". What does this mean and how can I approach this?

 

[Memhorder]

UPDATE: Progress has been made. I disconnected all the non essentials like hard drive, video card, etc. Only the CPU fan and Power was connected. RAM was put it the DDR_1 and DDR_3 spot again. A beep was heard! The screen turned on. It asked to reset to "last known good BIOS configuration". I was so thrilled I actually missed it and the computer restarted haha.

But it seems that moving the RAM around actually did the trick. If anyone has similar issues I suggest trying different RAM or to move it into different slots to see what works.

UPDATE 2: The computer now *rarely* boots Into a window that says "Disk Boot Failure". What does this mean and how can I approach this?

Some progress is better than none but man one thing after another. That must be a little frustrating. All I can say is make sure the boot drive is connected to SATA_0 and be sure they click into place. Power SATA too.

 

[Albert Szeliga]

Hey everyone. Last update.
Finally bought a new PSU today. That did the trick and it runs flawlessly now.