New build crashing with no blue screen

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Michael987

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May 6, 2016
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Hello,

I have been having some problems with my PC in the past week. I built this PC about 4 months ago and I did not have any problems with it until now.

What is happening is that my PC just completely shuts itself down and then restarts itself. There are no blue screens or messages on the PC, it simply shuts down instantaneously and then reboots about 3-5 seconds later.

My current system specs are: http://i.imgur.com/KpUSquN.png

The PSU I use is: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0100QRVP0

I have used PCpartpicker and that shows the total wats at about 500W and since my PSU is 650W I should be fine

I do not think this is a heat related issue since the highest temps I am getting is about 50° for the cpu which is fine and about 55° for the GPU, of which I have had running before at about 75° with no issues.

I have done some google searching of this but the answers are divided, some saying PSU problems and some saying GPU problems and so on.

I have checked event viewer and the error messages I get are Kernel-Power (Telling me it did not shut down correctly which I already know) and the other error message is event ID 1101 - Audit events have been dropped by the transport. 0. When I did a search of this I found this was usually involved with the crashing, however there were many different answers that people gave that solved their issues; some of which included disabling audio drivers via Device Manager but that has not helped me.

After my latest crash (1 hour ago), I checked for any BIOS updates and have installed some new ones which have recently been released via MSI's website.

I have checked via Device Manager than there are no "!/?" next to anything which would suggest an update is needed.

My crashes do not really have any pattern, some are when Im on the internet, some on YouTube and some on different games. However, I have never gotten two crashes on the same day and are usually 2-3 days apart from each-other, no matter what I am doing.

What could be causing this problem?

Furthermore, what things can I do to try and find out which component is causing the problem ?

If there is anything else you need me to do and post let me know, thanks.
 
Solution
if thats the case, would you mind doing a clean install using the windows 10 installation ?

1. If all of your necessary data is backed up to your old drive, the only thing you will need to do.

2. Unhook your old hard drive for the moment, next leave the new ssd hooked up.
Do what you did before, instead tell the installation you want a full format.

3. Once its done correctly It'll proceed as normal, check in on the installation off and on to make sure it installs with no problems.

This would be the best way to start out fresh when you do a clean install for future use.
Now if it starts up with the same old problems....
Your best bet is to do the rma service with msi, "you did everything" you could as stated here.
It will be up to...
Voltages look fine there, so at least superficially, I see no issue with the PSU unless it's not related to voltage on those three circuits. Is the fan on the PSU operating normally under load, not potentially overheating? Check fan operation on all devices, PSU, CPU, case fans. Make sure they are all reacting to thermal ranges.

Try disconnecting your front panel connections to the motherboard and powering up by jumping the pins on the motherboard where the power leads come from the front panel. Sometimes a bad mini board for the front panel connections, or bad switch, can cause these kinds of problems. Long shot, but worth checking.

Also, maybe it WOULD be a good idea, just to say you've done it if nothing else, to try replacing the CMOS battery with a new one. That can definitely cause a variety of issues, but not usually loss of power shut downs.

I think it's the motherboard, but there always remains a chance that it's something else.
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530


Right now im trying what the other person said a few messages ago by putting a single 8GB stick into a slot and seeing if it crashes; if it does I will then move it onto the next one and repeat until all 4 have been covered.

I have 3 120mm fans on my case; 1 intake and 2 exhaust. I can see and feel that all 3 of these are operational.

The cpu cooler is a Cooler Master Hyper EVO and I can see that this works fine too. I have also adjusted the settings in the BIOS to increase the speed at certain temperatures but I have done this since I built my PC.

PSU is on the bottom so I cannot physically see if the fan itself is moving since I would have to lift the PC up to see in below, however it has an air filter on below it and this has dust on it every week I clean it, so that must mean there is some intake from this otherwise the dust would not be stuck there.

Right now I want to try and get a refund on the MB and then purchase a better one suited for gaming; but the problem is I still dont know if it is actually the motherboard causing the problem since I can never re-create the crash.

I will continue with the carousel of the RAM for now and then see if this changes anything.

Also, just to be sure that my PSU is actually powerful enough to run all of my hardware, what site would you recommend to use to check wattage of components or should I just post them here and let you or another member tell me what wattage would be the minimum it could run on?

 
Yes, definitely rule out the RAM first, as that is a common failure and most if not all memory modules have lifetime warranties so if you find it's a specific stick causing the problem, shouldn't be a problem to get it replaced. If the stick is part of a matched set, you'll need to return the whole kit and get a whole new kit, or the replacement module might not "play nice" with your other sticks.

Your PSU is exactly where it needs to be for your hardware. In fact, you likely have a bit of headroom there, which is perfect.



 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530


Ive only had one stick of the 8GB in today (After the crash which happened for me earlier today) and I havent had another crash yet so will leave this in until it either next crashes or for the next few days/week to test it.

I will keep this updated with any crashes I have whilst trying the RAM carousel out.

I understand about the same type of RAM to be used as once, but right now Im only using a single stick so that is irrelavent but when I am using my 2 8GB sticks they came as a pair so they are identical
 
Mike I need you to do me a favor, power down your computer, remove both of your graphic cards.
Power it back on, and use the integrated graphics for half a day or a day.
If nothing crashes and nothing shows up from the event viewer, I want you to put one card back in.
Test it for the night and see what happens, if nothing happens, take the card and try the other.

I have a feeling that the graphics card or the pci-e x16 slots maybe the problem.
I know you won't like doing this, but its the best way to rule out if its the graphics card or a direct motherboard problem MSI will need to fix or replace.
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530


Please dont call me Mike again.

I only have a single GPU which is the R9 390.

I have not had a crash today when running the single stick of the 8GB RAM in DIMM slot 3/4 I think I have it in, however sometimes the crashes have days apart and then happen again. Once I have done the RAM carousel what was mentioned before (Possibly by you) and if I still have crashes I will take out the GPU.

The problem is that I wouldnt be able to do the same things without it e.g. running things on ultra settings so it would not put the PC under the same load; however I dont know what causes these crashes regardless so I am unsure whether the actual load of the PC has any effect on the crashes or not.
 


Perhaps you confused this thread with another one. You must have, otherwise you were clearly not taking the time to actually READ this one, and LOOK at the specs. No where in this thread is there any mention of dual cards, and if there WERE, then pretty clearly the power supply being used would not be of sufficient capacity to run them and would be the probable problem. Since none of that is the case, maybe you want to try again, or not.

Running without the discreet card installed, using only the iGPU, isn't a bad idea though. True, it won't tell you a damn thing about the problem if it's related to a load specific condition only created by use of the GPU card, but it MIGHT tell you that it's NOT GPU card related if it still happens with it not installed.
 



Please do what I asked you to, before you call msi again for help, I want to be sure that you tried everything under the sun so that msi can verify you tried.
Even with cpus integrated graphics, it'll run some games on normal or medium high but not high or ultra high..
You can still use youtube to watch videos or look at videos on your computer.

Also while your doing that, open up event viewer and look at system logs.
Look for any red x mark errors, and click on the details, it may give you the bsod code or a clue to what might be the problem.
We're looking for persistant errors pointing at a specific hardware or software.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/open-event-viewer#1TC=windows-7
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530
"Please do what I asked you to, before you call msi again for help, I want to be sure that you tried everything under the sun so that msi can verify you tried.
Even with cpus integrated graphics, it'll run some games on normal or medium high but not high or ultra high..
You can still use youtube to watch videos or look at videos on your computer.

Also while your doing that, open up event viewer and look at system logs.
Look for any red x mark errors, and click on the details, it may give you the bsod code or a clue to what might be the problem.
We're looking for persistant errors pointing at a specific hardware or software.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/open-event-viewer#1TC=windows-7"

As I have said, I will do this after RAM changes as I still havent had a crash yet but I will see in the next week or so if I have anymore.

Regarding even viewer; since my last crash yesterday before the RAM changes, I have had 47 new logs in it. They are a mix of errors/warnings. I guess I could save the selected events and upload them if you wanted to have a look at them but I dont think any of them are causing a crash since I havent had one even with them showing up.
 
Ok I found the problem it could be possible something is up with the graphics card.
Only thing is it maybe a driver problem where you will need stable drivers or you will need to contact msi for rma support for it.

Read the link first, then read what manasa says and attempt that, read what rhonda says on page 2 so you will know what to do at the cmd prompt.

If you can get that done, we'll will figure out if you need stable drivers that won't blip out every 3-5 hours or get rma support due a graphics card issue.

0xC0000188 bsod details

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-performance/circular-kernel-context-logger-error-0xc0000188/d2aa4b79-be60-43d0-8d31-0072235a8f43?page=1
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
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1,530


I have done what this has said to do (Both steps) however when you are referring to "0xC0000188 bsod details" I dont get a blue screen when the PC shuts itself down, it is just instantaneous in stopping itself.
 
Since he's already done a clean graphics driver install using the DDU and the latest driver version, I really have doubts that is the problem. A bad card, possibly, but it doesn't make sense really that a change in memory configuration would affect that.


Revisiting what I told you on the first page of this thread, I think before I went any further it would be good to know whether or not this was a CLEAN Windows 10 installation, meaning you wiped ALL the partitions on the primary drive and then reinstalled to the unpartitioned, unformatted space, and allowed Windows to create the necessary partitions and perform any formatting needed. If not, or if this was an UPGRADE from a previous Windows version, I'd HIGHLY recommend performing a clean installation of Windows as follows because the majority of these ghost type issues I've seen on Windows 10 have been a direct result of corruptions to the registry during the upgrade process.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2784691/perform-clean-install-windows-upgrading.html
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530


This was an upgrade from Windows 7.

However, I put this directly onto a brand new SSD as this is where my OS is now located; this was not used on any other PC.

The HDD I am using is from my old PC, however I wiped everything from that first essentially making it new again and everything that is now stored on it is after the installation of Windows 10 on the SSD.
 
By "wiped" do you mean formatted, or do you mean "manually deleted all the existing partitions, created a new partition and then formatted that"?

When you installed Windows to the new SSD, was the old HDD attached to the system? It's probably not relevant, but it might be, and would be good to know in any case.

Back to the point, so you did an upgrade to 10 from 7 using the old HDD, then got a new SSD and cloned the installation to the SSD, or did you perform a clean install of Windows 10 on the SSD?
 

Michael987

Commendable
May 6, 2016
30
0
1,530


In this step (http://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/5408d1412182997-windows-10-clean-install-5_install_windows_10.jpg) on the guide I did it by getting to this point and then deleting files ans then formatting on this screen using the HDD.

I then cloned the OS installation from the HDD to the SSD using the Samsung Data Migration Software; therefore this means the HDD was attached to the system.

Once that was done, I used disk cleanup to remove the system files from the HDD that were related to windows 7 from the upgrade/installation.
 
if thats the case, would you mind doing a clean install using the windows 10 installation ?

1. If all of your necessary data is backed up to your old drive, the only thing you will need to do.

2. Unhook your old hard drive for the moment, next leave the new ssd hooked up.
Do what you did before, instead tell the installation you want a full format.

3. Once its done correctly It'll proceed as normal, check in on the installation off and on to make sure it installs with no problems.

This would be the best way to start out fresh when you do a clean install for future use.
Now if it starts up with the same old problems....
Your best bet is to do the rma service with msi, "you did everything" you could as stated here.
It will be up to the msi technicians to fix it right or replace it under your warrenty.
 
Solution