Build Advice New build for someone who is entirely green to building

Mar 2, 2023
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I’d like to believe I’m capable enough to build a computer and have wanted to create a PC for a while. My main goals for this computer is to be able to do some moderate-heavy gaming with 3D modeling capabilities (solidworks,Revit,AutoCAD). Main games include rust, COD, Ark. limited rendering usage. Right now I think I want to go for high frame 1080p. Also worth noting that I don’t have any peripherals.

I have been researching for most of the day and have gotten to this point(https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BMQjFg ). My thoughts also include going for a higher end CPU upfront for modeling purposes. Then upgrading GPU for better frames in a 1440 possibly down the line pending my gaming usage.

Budget is around 1000-1200. I would like it to be a little closer to the 1000 for some funds towards the other necessary components outside of the PC system.

Im open to any advice or suggestive changes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

I'd look into a 240mm AIO at the very least for your build. That Hyper 212 isn't exactly what you should be looking at when it comes to cooling. A higher end air cooler would be the route to take if not an AIO. Outside of the old chassis and cooling mentioned prior, your build looks fine.
 

delaro

Judicious
Ambassador
A few things to think about.

1. Windows 10 and 11 will install and run without a product key so you can save yourself $120 upfront, There is nothing illegal about this and they have no issue with it as long as you are not a business. You can then at a later date pick up a product key off a builder on eBay for around $35-$45, I know a few that buy in bulk "250-500" and resell what they don't use. If you think that is sketchy, Best Buy does it as well as most large contract builders that support Hospitals, Banks, and Schools when the prices are right and they are smart about it.

1. As much as I like the updates Windows 11 has it's still rather buggy :unsure: Solidworks crashes on me 2-3 times a day and Autocad was a pain to get installed with some features just downright Crashing the entire system.

2. 16GB consider the minimum for Solidworks on Winblows 10 or 11, gaming is getting to that point too, if you can push more RAM do so.

3. 8GB GPUs, Your seeing more and more games push that at 1440p and it's dead obvious at 4K.
 
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Because of your productivity work, i would suggest a fast SSD and 32 gigs of ram. The 12700k deal is good, with DDR5 and B760, you can upgrade to 14th gen before changing the entire platform. The price of the Intel A770 would be very good for your budget and needs. So this is what i would suggest considering longevity:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($258.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AG620 BK ARGB 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B760 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($124.90 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Constellation ES.3 1 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($31.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming D Arc A770 8 GB Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($119.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $1315.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-03 02:18 EST-0500
 

delaro

Judicious
Ambassador
The price of the Intel A770 would be very good for your budget and needs. So this is what i would suggest considering longevity:

Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming D Arc A770 8 GB Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Honestly, I would avoid these Intel GPU's if possible for another 6 months unless you're doing very simple projects, they add another layer of driver conflicts and stability issues onto Windows 11. There is a reason why builders that specialize in Workstations don't offer them yet. :unsure:
 

logainofhades

Titan
Moderator
Because of your productivity work, i would suggest a fast SSD and 32 gigs of ram. The 12700k deal is good, with DDR5 and B760, you can upgrade to 14th gen before changing the entire platform.

Sadly 14th gen will be a new socket. 13900k is the end of the line, for LGA 1700.
 
Sadly 14th gen will be a new socket. 13900k is the end of the line, for LGA 1700.


My bad, i was under the wrong impression ...
 

logainofhades

Titan
Moderator
I would forgo buying a windows license, for now, and get the best hardware you can. You will have limited customization options, and you will get a water mark saying to activate, but it will function the same, otherwise. Buy the license later. Also went with DDR4, to push the graphics card up to a higher tier.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($258.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($40.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 UD AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($64.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($28.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASRock Challenger D OC Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1198.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-03 08:47 EST-0500
 
Your original list is a good one and can work as is.

I have some thoughts:

I7-12700K is a fine processor, but the I5-13500 performs similarly and costs a bit less:
https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i5-13500-core-i5-13th-gen/p/N82E16819118429
It also comes with an adequate cpu cooler.

Hyper212 is cheap and reasonable. I found one to be difficult to mount properly.
If you later want a stronger cpu cooler, the thermalright peerless assassin is a good buy:
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-01P6-0...cm_re=thermalright-_-9SIBFKMJ657486-_-Product

No problem with a B760 motherboard.

Most of the time, 16gb is sufficient.
No game. by itself will take more.
But, if you are multitasking or using apps that can make use of ram for workspace, then consider 32gb up front.
Ram must be factory matched for proper operation.
Adding ram later, even the same exact part number is not guaranteed to work.

The only benefit of a hard drive is the lower cost per gb.
I would omit the HDD and use a 2tb ssd for everything. It is easy to add storage later.
I like Samsung quality.
So did Puget systems in this report:
I would pick the samsung 970 EVO + m.2
https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-plus-2tb/p/N82E16820147744?Item=9SIBJCRJME3245&quicklink=true

On video cards, I have no opinion.
If you want, you could defer that decision and use integrated graphics initially.
Works well for all except fast action gaming.

Your processor is capable of driving a much higher performing graphics card upgrade in the future.
To that end, buy a 850w psu.
Corsair rm850e with a 7 year warranty is good:
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rme-...817139301?Item=N82E16817139301&quicklink=true
Or, Seasonic focus gm 850:
https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-gm-series-focus-gm-850-750w/p/N82E16817151231
As a tip, you can estimate the quality of a psu by the length of the warranty 7 years is very good, some are 10-12 years. No real need to chase platinum efficiency.

As above, you can download windows for free and use it fully functional for 30 days.
You can set your display preferences.
At that time, if you do not activate, you will see a faint watermark on the lower right of your screen and you will not be able to change preferences.
If you later buy a cheaper oem license it will be tied to your motherboard.
Future upgrades of the motherboard may not work.

I like the Focus G, a no nonsense, fully functional case.

FWIW for a first time builder:

MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.

I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812119009?Description=power switch&cm_re=power_switch--12-119-009--Product&quicklink=true
1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
  1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
  2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
  3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:
If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.

Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.


  1. Install windows.
  2. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
  1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
  2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
  1. Update windows to currency.
  2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
  3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.
  4. Opinions vary on updating the bios. On a new build, I will update to currency right away. My thought is that I have no big loss if
I encounter a problem. Use the usb option, not the windows option.



Probably best to buy a retail license which is fully portable.
 
Personally this is how I would do it:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($258.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($40.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B660M BAZOOKA DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($129.99 @ B&H)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($64.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASRock Challenger Pro OC Radeon RX 6750 XT 12 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Focus 2 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1201.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-03 15:12 EST-0500
 
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delaro

Judicious
Ambassador
not a dodgy gray market one that Microsoft can blacklist and is frequently a result of someone being victimized by a crime.

It's not hard to spot the legit sellers and there is nothing grey about selling off excess inventory when you buy bulk. You're not going to be very profitable as a small to medium business sitting on excess for months and years at a time. You buy Lots of everything, build what you need and price what is left for a quick profit then move on.

Your original list is a good one and can work as is.

I have some thoughts:

I7-12700K is a fine processor, but the I5-13500 performs similarly and costs a bit less:
https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i5-13500-core-i5-13th-gen/p/N82E16819118429
It also comes with an adequate cpu cooler.

Agreed, he can save a bit now as long as he doesn't plan on looking into overclocking 2-3 years down the line. The cooler on the other hand does run a bit toasty when under heavy loads for long periods of time.



Most of the time, 16gb is sufficient.
No game. by itself will take more.
But, if you are multitasking or using apps that can make use of ram for workspace, then consider 32gb up front.
Ram must be factory matched for proper operation.
Adding ram later, even the same exact part number is not guaranteed to work.

16GB of RAM and 8 GB of VRAM will run into the same issues when dealing with Workstations unless you're doing the very basic of tasks that use very few layers and options.

Games and RAM? Actually there are 8 I have come across that will force you to shut off everything on the multitask side, that includes ARK while hosting. 16GB, its very easy to hit 80% with the basic of multitasking and a game running.



As above, you can download windows for free and use it fully functional for 30 days.
You can set your display preferences.
At that time, if you do not activate, you will see a faint watermark on the lower right of your screen and you will not be able to change preferences.
If you later buy a cheaper oem license it will be tied to your motherboard.
Future upgrades of the motherboard may not work.

Your thinking of Windows 7, Windows 10 and 11 don't have a trail period you can use it as is for as long as you like with only minor annoyances. Don't buy OEM licences, stick to Home or Pro and avoid having potential licensing issues when you upgrade.