New Build Help

Apr 2, 2018
5
0
10
Hi everyone, pretty new to the community here and wanting some input on my 1st build.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/loneeagle517/saved/kq8tJx

I want something that is aesthetically pleasing (hence the expensive RAM and the liquid cooler [although I do plan on overclocking]) as well as being future proof for a while. I'm just about at the top of my budget with what I have linked above but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone!
Jake
 
I might suggest a 500gb Samsung 960 m.2 pcie ssd.
Probably $40 more.
It is some 6x faster in sequential access but while good, it is not a game breaker.
The device looks like a stick of gum so you will never see it.
A plus for aesthetics.

I am very much against a liquid cooler when you have a nice case like yours.
I would use a noctua NH-D15s which will be half the cost and cool equally well.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608072

My canned rant on liquid cooling:
------------------------start of rant-------------------
You buy a liquid cooler to be able to extract an extra multiplier or two out of your OC.
How much do you really need?
I do not much like all in one liquid coolers when a good air cooler like a Noctua or phanteks can do the job just as well.
A liquid cooler will be expensive, noisy, less reliable, and will not cool any better
in a well ventilated case.
Liquid cooling is really air cooling, it just puts the heat exchange in a different place.
The orientation of the radiator will cause a problem.
If you orient it to take in cool air from the outside, you will cool the cpu better, but the hot air then circulates inside the case heating up the graphics card and motherboard.
If you orient it to exhaust(which I think is better) , then your cpu cooling will be less effective because it uses pre heated case air.
Past that, A AIO radiator complicates creating a positive pressure filtered cooling setup which can keep your parts clean.
And... I have read too many tales of woe when a liquid cooler leaks.
Google for AIO leaks to see what can happen.
While unlikely, leaks do happen.

I would support an AIO cooler primarily in a space restricted case.
If one puts looks over function, that is a personal thing; not for me though.
-----------------------end of rant--------------------------

Your pc will be quieter, more reliable, and will be cooled equally well with a decent air cooler.

As a first time builder, you might use this:
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip phillips screwdriver.

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functuonality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft security essentials is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.

9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.
 

Zerk2012

Titan
Ambassador
At one time I would do all that before putting it in the case, but after so many builds without DOA parts I just install the CPU, cooler, and memory and put it all in the case.

The last part I got that was DOA was about 2 years ago and was a SSD.
 
Apr 2, 2018
5
0
10
Ok guys a little help, I took your suggestions (thank you very much) and after I added an M.2 hard drive part picker is giving me a compatibility alert saying "The motherboard M.2 slot #1 shares bandwidth with SATA 6.0 Gb/s ports. When the M.2 slot is populated, two SATA 6.0 Gb/s ports are disabled." Admittedly I'm not really sure what this means or is saying I need to change but could one of you take a look and fill me in??

PS I couldn't bring myself to part with the aesthetic value of the Kraken...sorry guys

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MDBdXP
 

Zerk2012

Titan
Ambassador
Personally I would just stick with the lower priced SATA SSD. In real life performance their no difference you will get about a 0.5 second faster boot time and that is about it unless your doing a lot of file tranfers or using it as a scratch drive.

But their no issues it just uses 2 of the ports.

On anouther note what are the extra fans for? I see no use for them. Rad mounted in the front and the case comes with a top and rear fan already.
I also dont like having to front mount a rad and blow warn air into the PC.
 
Here is the list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($329.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus - TUF Z370 Plus Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($128.85 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($163.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($144.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.21 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Extreme Core Video Card ($914.98 @ Newegg Business)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Newegg Business)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2059.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-02 22:48 EDT-0400

This is better performing option over the GTX1080 list as GTX1080Ti shows nearly 30-35% performance increase over GTX1080.
 
Here is the list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($329.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG Strix Z370-H Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($155.39 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($163.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($144.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.21 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($999.89 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2165.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-03 09:56 EDT-0400

Build with no compromise on performance or on looks.
 
Solution
Apr 2, 2018
5
0
10
Thanks everyone for your responses! I didn't expect to get nearly as many replies as it did

Originally I was going for a white and black build but after thinking about your suggestion some King Dranzer I think I'm going to black and red instead, arguably more striking in my opinion. And hey, that way during the holidays I can make the rgb green :p

Thanks again guys you've been so much help and I cant wait to get this thing built!