Question New build is turning on, but no display. Asus ROG Stix Motherboard shows yellow/orange Q-LED light.

[Spacebit]

Hello everyone. So, I built my last PC in 2016 when things were a lot simpler. To upgrade, I figured I will just get new motherboard, CPU and RAM and use the old components to check if everything's all right.

Here are the new components:
CPU: Intel i5-13500
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B760-F Gaming WiFi
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32GB (16GBX2) DDR5 6000MHz Memory

Old components:
PSU: Seasonic S12G 650W (has got only 8-pin CPU power, no additional 4-pin CPU power)

The reason I chose G.Skill 6000MHz although 13500 supports up to 4800MHz is because these forums (1 & 2) and a few others said we can run a 6000MHz RAM with this processor. Plus, it was cheaper than 5200MHz.

Day of build:

1. I installed everything right to the best of my knowledge and powered the system. The cool RGB ROG logo of the motherboard lit up and so did the RGB strip of Deepcool AK620 Digital. But the monitor (HDMI) showed NO SIGNAL.
2. I noticed the Q-LED was Orange in colour, so I checked the motherboard manual but there's no Orange status. It has the following Q-LED colours: Q-LED (CPU [red], DRAM [yellow], VGA [white], Boot Device [yellow green])
3. Thinking that it's a RAM issue, and the board's BIOS must be old, I used the USB FLASHBACK feature to update the BIOS. I followed the instructions, the FLASHBACK LED blinked for some minutes, and then turned off. I assumed the process was successful. Turned PC on and the Orange Q-LED persisted.
4. Cleared CMOS and tried different RAM positions. Still nothing.
5. Pic:

   https://imgur.com/a/I6hGXvm

What might be the problem? Should I get a new PSU with 8+4 pin CPU power connector? Or should I get a 4800MHz stick to check (like the Crucial CL40)?

The Motherboard and the CPU seem fine to me, as on boot first the red Q-LED turns on, then turns off, and then the yellow/orange light stays on.

 

[Aeacus]

So, I built my last PC in 2016 when things were a lot simpler.

What's changed since then? IMO, PC building is same as it was back in Skylake days.

I installed everything right to the best of my knowledge and powered the system.

So, 0 breadboarding? 🤔

Spoiler: What breadboarding is. Click here to view.

My Skylake build breadboarded, before installation into PC case. Back in 2016.

and then the yellow/orange light stays on.

This means:

DRAM [yellow]

Or should I get a 4800MHz stick to check (like the Crucial CL40)?

One option. Another is trying with 1 stick at a time.

 

[Spacebit]

One option. Another is trying with 1 stick at a time.

I tried 1 stick at a time. Same yellow light.
Ordered the Crucial stick. What do I do if that doesn't work either?

What's changed since then? IMO, PC building is same as it was back in Skylake days.

The Intel and AMD RAM profiles is weird. New RGB connectors (3-pin, 4-pin), new 3.2 gen 2 connectors... tiny bits and pieces have increased is what I meant to say.

So, 0 breadboarding? 🤔

Not exactly. Just got the main parts early to see if they work. Meshify 2 is really easy to work with. Will get the rest (PSU, GPU, M.2) next month when I get paid.

This means:

Yeah, yellow. It's a very strong yellow.

 

[Aeacus]

What do I do if that doesn't work either?

Then it's either dead CPU or MoBo.

The Intel and AMD RAM profiles is weird. New RGB connectors (3-pin, 4-pin), new 3.2 gen 2 connectors... tiny bits and pieces have increased is what I meant to say.

RAM profiles have been around pre-Skylake days. Namely Intel XMP. When Ryzen launched, there was one addition. Since Ryzen chips are capricious with RAM speeds (Intel XMP can still work with Ryzen), AMD made their own RAM OC profile, known as EXPO.

4-pin RGB was a thing back in 2016. There was even addressable RGB out there. Sure, no 3-pin ARGB header on MoBo per se, but hardware existed (fans, LED strips) that had individual RGB LED control. Hence why i'm running NZXT Hue+ with AER140 RGB fans and LED strips. <- All LEDs individually addressable.

USB gens are, yes, messy.
This gives some light about what is what, link: https://www.kingston.com/en/usb-flash-drives/usb-30
More in-depth article too, link: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/usb-3-2-explained
I keep it simple for myself, based on MoBo internal USB headers, which are either: USB 2.0 (ends with rectangular port aka type-A), USB 3.0 (ends with rectangular port), USB type-C (ends with oval port).

Perhaps the biggest changes are:
DDR5 RAM
NVMe PCI-E 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0
PCI-E 4.0 (GPUs)
+12VHPWR connector (used on RTX 40-series GPUs) which also leads to ATX 3.0 PSU standard

Other than that, it's business as usual. CPUs get faster with more cores and new GPUs are released every so often.

Just got the main parts early to see if they work. Meshify 2 is really easy to work with.

While it may be easy to work inside the PC case, it also adds another complication. Namely bridge between MoBo solder joint to the metal PC case. If you'd breadboarded the MoBo beforehand and then found out that system won't POST, you could've saved the time and effort of putting MoBo into PC case and also taking it out.

Yeah, yellow. It's a very strong yellow.

Either RAM or MoBo issue. Debug LED just says it can't access the RAM. Trying with different RAM may yield different results. If not and when you've tested all 4 slots, it would be safe to assume the MoBo is toast. In this case, RMA the MoBo.

 

[Spacebit]

Then it's either dead CPU or MoBo.


RAM profiles have been around pre-Skylake days. Namely Intel XMP. When Ryzen launched, there was one addition. Since Ryzen chips are capricious with RAM speeds (Intel XMP can still work with Ryzen), AMD made their own RAM OC profile, known as EXPO.

4-pin RGB was a thing back in 2016. There was even addressable RGB out there. Sure, no 3-pin ARGB header on MoBo per se, but hardware existed (fans, LED strips) that had individual RGB LED control. Hence why i'm running NZXT Hue+ with AER140 RGB fans and LED strips. <- All LEDs individually addressable.

USB gens are, yes, messy.
This gives some light about what is what, link: https://www.kingston.com/en/usb-flash-drives/usb-30
More in-depth article too, link: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/usb-3-2-explained
I keep it simple for myself, based on MoBo internal USB headers, which are either: USB 2.0 (ends with rectangular port aka type-A), USB 3.0 (ends with rectangular port), USB type-C (ends with oval port).

Perhaps the biggest changes are:
DDR5 RAM
NVMe PCI-E 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0
PCI-E 4.0 (GPUs)
+12VHPWR connector (used on RTX 40-series GPUs) which also leads to ATX 3.0 PSU standard

Other than that, it's business as usual. CPUs get faster with more cores and new GPUs are released every so often.


While it may be easy to work inside the PC case, it also adds another complication. Namely bridge between MoBo solder joint to the metal PC case. If you'd breadboarded the MoBo beforehand and then found out that system won't POST, you could've saved the time and effort of putting MoBo into PC case and also taking it out.



Either RAM or MoBo issue. Debug LED just says it can't access the RAM. Trying with different RAM may yield different results. If not and when you've tested all 4 slots, it would be safe to assume the MoBo is toast. In this case, RMA the MoBo.

Today I tried with new RAM sticks (Crucial 4800MHz) and a new PSU (Strix 1000W). Reseated CPU, checked for any broken pins in CPU socket, checked all RAM combinations (both single and double), I don't think there's anything else left I can do.
RMAing first thing tomorrow.
Thanks for the help