Question New Build No Display with 40 series Cards

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DannyAZ5

Jul 24, 2023
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I've built a few dozen systems, but this latest build really has me stumped! I've tried everything I could think of so far, hoping you guys might have some ideas I haven't thought of. I am simply trying to get the computer to consistently post to BIOS!

Parts list:
  • 12600K
  • Gigabyte B660M DS3H AX Mini-ATX DDR4
  • Crucial 32GB 2x kit DDR4 3200
  • Thermalright Assassin Air Cooler
  • Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
  • Apevia Jupiter 800w PSU
  • MSI 4060 TI
  • Sama Mini-ATX Tower
Upon completion of build, I was unable to display Bios on my monitor (no signal). I swapped DP cable for HDMI and no change. I plugged HDMI cable into motherboard and I was able to see BIOS

Checked BIOS settings, Resizable Bar was on, Primary Graphics set to PCIE. Still unable to get the video card to post.

Suspecting the 4060 TI, I removed it and plugged it into my gaming system, immediately posted and displayed. Video card is good. Took my gaming system's 4070 and plugged it into new build, behavior remained with no display on BIOS.

Took an old RX580 I had laying around, plugged it in (also 8pin power) and BIOS displayed! Multiple tries, BIOS displays as intended.

Back to 40 series cards, I tried a known good Thermaltake PSU. Still no display on BIOS. This whole time, I can see everything else lightup (my keyboard, my mouse) and see that the PC is taking commands, as I can F10 and hit ENTER and cycle the system, just like I was in the BIOS.

So my first diagnosis is that the 40series cards were not compatible with the older 600 series Gigabyte Motherboard. Since my motherboard was a dozen revisions behind, and F22 version suggested some compatibility fixes with 30 series cards, I upgraded to latest version F23. NO CHANGE. Frustrated, I contacted NewEgg (Great CS) and RMA'd the board.

I overnighted an Asus B760M-A AX D4 Prime. And wouldn't you know it, behavior REMAINS!

If I select PEG as primary display, GPU will display BIOS on next boot. But if I power down the system, the display never returns, until I go through the process of changing the primary display in BIOS again. Move cable to motherboard port, change BIOS to PEG as PRIMARY, F10 and save, quickly switch cable to 4060TI to regain display.

The only thing that I haven't changed is Memory/CPU. But at this VERY EARLY stage, it seems odd to me that anything other than the CPU is messing with me. I could swap to some Corsair Memory, but what else is left to try? I've replaced the Motherboard, the PSU, and tested the video cards in another system. I am close to sending the CPU back and getting a new one. Any suggestions???
 
Sometimes just updating the BIOS is not enough, you need to also do a hard reset. I would at least TRY a hard reset and see if it recognizes the 40 series card then. Make sure the 40 series card is the first card you try to use after doing the hard reset.

Do not skip or change the steps. Perform it EXACTLY as outlined here.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.
 
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Before I tried this, I swapped my CPU with a known good CPU. Still no video on post.

No battery in my motherboard. I cleared the CMOS by using the jumper for 10 seconds. Never seen a motherboard with no CMOS battery. Not sure how to clear it any further...
 
It HAS a CMOS battery, as you can clearly see in the image below next to the primary PCIe slot. You will need to remove the graphics card in order to access the CMOS battery. Using the jumper pin is NOT the same process. Seen the jumper pin method fail to achieve the desired results at least a 100 times, whereas using the CMOS battery method and hard reset, did, in many cases.

1000
 
You're right, I missed that.

So, two different boards, same behavior. Unlikely that it's a board or BIOS issue in that case.

What is the exact model of your Crucial memory kit?

The reality here is that the MOST probable/likely cause is your power supply. Apevia is one of the worst PSU brands on the market with a relatively well known name, and almost zero models that are any good. I have yet to EVER see a review of ANY Apevia power supply that was even halfway mediocre, much less any good. Since the PSU is common to both builds, old board and new, it makes it a lot more likely as well. I honestly think that is probably where I'd start and if you look around you'll find a very convincing consensus in regard to ANY Apevia power supply, which is that they are basically all low quality, poorly performing pieces of garbage. It's possible for any brand to have a good model but without a professional review to verify that, and with the horrible track record Apevia has in this regard, I'm very doubtful.
 
Good to know! The things I tried today:

Replaced the PSU with a Thermaltake Smart 600w - no change in behavior.
Ran single stick Crucial 16gb memory in Slot 2/4 - no change in behavior.
Ran single stick of Corsair Dominator 8gb memory in slot 2/4 - no change in behavior
Ran dual channel Corsair Dominator (16gb total) - no change in behavior
and... Drum roll please...

REMOVED the 13600k from my primary system, slotted it into the new motherboard, NO change in behavior.

I have now replaced every part, and really was about to give up, but an article I read on here gives me some hope: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/uefi-firmware-update-rtx-4090-4080-fixes-blank-screens

So I installed Windows 11, and after work will update/patch and try this Nvidia tool to see if it is a firmware issue. I am hopeful because it's happening on both of my 40 series cards...
 
Have you tried getting new PSU that has 3.0 and that has direct cable to gpu from PSU without any adaptors just that my old PSU 1000W made my new 4080 have no screen it powered on but with issues with black screen soon as changed PSU to 3.0 it powered on and worked!.
 
DannyAZ5 said:
Good to know! The things I tried today:

Replaced the PSU with a Thermaltake Smart 600w - no change in behavior.
Click to expand...

Do you happen to have anything that's at least decent budget quality to try with? The Thermaltake is possibly even worse, depending on which of the awful "Smart" PSUs you have.

Whether something else has broken or not, it's hard to isolate things until you have a good foundation, which means a reputable PSU needs to come into the mix sooner or later.
 
Yeah, actually that Smart series unit might even be worse than that Jupiter, but that's hard to call. They are both not what I'd ever want to see in any kind of enthusiast or gaming system. Even an entry level one. Definitely not anything above that.

DannyAZ5 said:
Here I missed this question - not a reseller or sponsored 😛😛😛

Crucial Pro RAM 32GB Kit (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MT/s (or 3000MT/s or 2666MT/s) Desktop Memory CP2K16G4DFRA32A
Click to expand...
So, the Crucial memory advisor does not show that kit as being compatible with that motherboard. Which is probably not that surprising because unlike Corsair's and G.Skill's memory compatibility checkers, Crucial's seems to be pretty limited in what's been validated. Unless that was an AMD specific kit I'd be very doubtful about it having problems on an Intel platform when it's not terribly high end memory with outrageous speeds or anything like that, and Intel is pretty good about memory compatibility although I have seen several instances where an Intel CPU and board didn't want to run some DDR4 that was intended to be an AMD friendly kit with preferred timings for that platform. So it can happen. But it's much less likely than when it's the other way around as AMD is not as forgiving, traditionally anyhow.
 
Hey hey hey! Let's not get uppity! 😆 I did this entire 12600K, 32gig, 40 series system for UNDER $900 before tax. I enjoy a good budget build. 😊
 
DannyAZ5 said:
Hey hey hey! Let's not get uppity! 😆 I did this entire 12600K, 32gig, 40 series system for UNDER $900 before tax. I enjoy a good budget build. 😊
Click to expand...

Well, not really, since the PSU. You should have gone cheaper elsewhere.

If you're just going to insist it's OK and not deal with the issue, there's not much more I can do, so I wish you good fortune.
 
DSzymborski said:
Well, not really, since the PSU. You should have gone cheaper elsewhere.

If you're just going to insist it's OK and not deal with the issue, there's not much more I can do, so I wish you good fortune.
Click to expand...
Wow! Two working Power Supplies, but neither up to your standard. You found your smoking gun!

The good news is that I have a fully installed and updated Windows 11 instance. Other than not seeing BIOS on post, the system runs as expected. After work today, I plan on running the firmware utility to see if it meets Nvidia's standards for a bios update. I'll keep you all posted. 😊
 
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