[SOLVED] New build owing to 11 year old system retirement

Ma3s7ro

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Nov 5, 2009
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Hey guys.

So i'm finally retiring my entire 11 year old system except the GPU. Need some help with MOBO and well, any suggestions for a cheap itx/mATX build. I'll build it and leave it alone as long as i can. I'll change the GPU every now and then, and if needed a MOBO with PCIe 4.0 when they're cheaper.

No OC's whatsoever.
No SLI.
Mainly gaming and as HTPC.

Right now the ryzen 3600x is 11$ in difference from regular 3600 (241$vs230$), so this is picked:

CPU - 3600x

As for the rest of the build i'm thinking of:

Case: Golden Field n-2s (will be sittin in my living room, so has to be ultra discrete) (70$)
RAM: 32gb G.Skill Aegis DDR4 3000 Mhz (130$)
PSU: I have a Coolmaster rs 600w acab m2, not sure if i should change it or not. (?)
GPU: 1060, will keep it and wait for the Ampere gen 3060 probably.
MOBO: Completely lost over here! And here i need dire help! I prefer Itx, but...

Since it will be 3/4 years probably till PCIe 4.0 is needed, and itx boards are 250$ minimum in EU, i'm thinking of going for a B450/x470 that are cheaper than x570. The thing is, there are according to a great spreadsheet found in reddit and, well, everywhere right about now, there's a whole lot to choose from (with proper bios update).

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...IVNyMatydkpFA/htmlview?sle=true#gid=639584818

After checking the prices for every single Itx and mATX mobo i was left to wonder, is there such a big difference between a 60/70$ B450 MOBO to a 130/140 B450????

50-80$ (mATX)
Gigabyte B450M DS3H - 60$
Asrock B450M HDV - 65$

80-100$ picks (mATX)
MSI B450M Bazooka Plus (90$)
Asrock B450M Pro4 (85$)

100-150$ picks (Itx)

Asrock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming ITX/ac (120$)
Gigabyte B450I Aorus Pro WiFi (140$)
MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC (140$)

I'm less inclined to the 80-100$picks, since they're in the middle of what i really want and cheaper option, and seen some posts of people claiming the DS3H does a very stable build for 3600x.

Opinions? Wanted to keep it under 500$, so i can buy a 3060/3070 when they arrive next year (the case will be offered).

Thank you everyone!
 
Last edited:
Solution
Testing the PSU - yes.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a full test per se as the PSU is not under load.

However if the voltages are pushing the limits then certainly a warning sign.

PSU's are a critical component. And they do degrade with time and use/overuse.

And they can just die without any pre-requisites or ceremony.

Quality matters with PSUs just as much as it does with other products. E.g. the Pro Wifi….

But that is a variable that can be minimized with even a bit of effort and work.

Trade-offs are simply a comparison of risks.

Read reviews, visit manufacturer websites, read the installation documentation (including fine print), Forums, and FAQs.

There...

Ma3s7ro

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Nov 5, 2009
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Yeah I had seen that, thing is I really can't figure out the amount of heating in an itx, a gaming rig will produce and the risk of throttling! See lots of posts of people saying the Pro WiFi is a no go because of VRM's heating. Same for the fatal1ty. And both have better audio drivers...

And as for the PSU, well, that's just another one I'm struggling, since I can't figure out if mine is utter rubbish or decent(ish). Is there any way to put it to the test?

Thanks
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Testing the PSU - yes.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a full test per se as the PSU is not under load.

However if the voltages are pushing the limits then certainly a warning sign.

PSU's are a critical component. And they do degrade with time and use/overuse.

And they can just die without any pre-requisites or ceremony.

Quality matters with PSUs just as much as it does with other products. E.g. the Pro Wifi….

But that is a variable that can be minimized with even a bit of effort and work.

Trade-offs are simply a comparison of risks.

Read reviews, visit manufacturer websites, read the installation documentation (including fine print), Forums, and FAQs.

There is always some chance that things will go astray and/or Mr. Murphy shows up.

Make his job harder.
 
Solution

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
KP0XV9.jpg



I'd chuck the PSU; it wasn't a good one when new. It's not a 600W PSU, which they admit. Notice that they don't actually say it's a 600W PSU, it's called an E600 and there's 600 in prominent places, but they never actually say it's watts. You have a max of 408W in the +12V rail so since it's 2019 and not 1997, for all intents and purposes this is a 400W PSU.

It's also a very, very old 400W PSU, with no 80 Plus, and a very basic CWT platform. I wouldn't have used this in a gaming PC back around 2011 or so when this was made. I'm not using this on new parts. Call your sanitation provider an arrange for this to be recycled; it has no business being in your next build.
 

Ma3s7ro

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Nov 5, 2009
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Call your sanitation provider an arrange for this to be recycled; it has no business being in your next build.

Lol

Ok, so I decided to take up on your advices and I'll change the PSU. Looking at seasonics, but loads of PSU from them available.

Core GC 500w 44$
S12II 520w 48$
S12II 520w Evo 58$
Core GM 650w 59$
Prime Ultra 550w 80$

From what I gather the regular S12II is group regulated (didn't understand fully why this is bad, tough I understood it could under/over volt components and fry'em up,) so guess this one is a no go. What do you reckon from these above? Which one to juice the system?

Thanks again.