[SOLVED] New build worked, now it doesn't - Cpu led 2: Electric Boogaloo

Sarloh

Honorable
Jan 12, 2014
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OK fellas, it looks now I'm finally the one on the chopping block with a situation that I can't figure out for the life of me.

Here's the deal: new build, didn't bench it. So here you have me, plugging it all in nice and tidy and wham, it doesn't work. I should get an idiot medal. Anyway, here's the specs:

  • Got myself a Ryzen 5 3600 alongside a Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro which is not compatible out of the box, so I payed for the seller to update the bios (respectible company) and make it work.
  • I also got the Cooler Master H500 case with fans in the front, and a Masterliquid ML360R, one of them fancy new aio water coolers, big beast with 3 fans, barely fits.
  • My power supply is my previous Thermaltake Berlin with 630W and my GPU is a Gigabyte 1080. Used both in last build, no issues there.
  • Some GSkill Trident RAM and an Intel 660p SSD to boot.
I put the thing together, front fans in their controller, cooler fans in their own, each powered by a sata. All the power cables (PCI-E, 12V 4+4, the big one on the mobo) go in, nice and snug. So is the ram.

I turn the thing on and get a red led on the mobo, telling me that there's an issue with the CPU. I start taking things out of the box, but nothing works. Until it did. The trick was plugging out the controller with the cooler ARGB fans. The moment I plug it in it doesn't boot anymore. Weird flex, but OK. I go in the bios, it's updated, all is picture perfect, install Windows, drivers, Steam...

Now here's the funny part. I decide to finish up my work and plug the rgb fans directly into my mobo RGB and ARGB (set to 5V) ports. I also attached the 2 front fans that were still loose, standard fan port. And now nothing, same error. Red led for the CPU.

I'm doing the same thing I did before and no effect. Pulled out everything = all the fans, all the rgb, USB, gpu, ram, then tried ram in 1 slot, different slots. I took out the cpu, no bent pins, took out the cooler and replaced it with the stock one, no effect. I should mention that the fans, pump and led ram always start. I've reset the CMOS by removing the battery and working the circuit pins, both times, no effect. I also consulted and will continue to look at the troubleshooting steps thread that's been thrown around in cases such as these.

Tl:dr It worked perfectly, now it doesn't, but it's the same as before.

So fellas, think you can crack this one? Because my fingers already hurt from all the sharp tiny cables.
 
Last edited:

Sarloh

Honorable
Jan 12, 2014
22
0
10,520
2
Took my PC to a repair shop (luckily ran by the same store as where I ordered all the parts). After a teardown they discovered that the reason behind all of this way that I've managed to bend a pin on the USB header on the motherboard. This bent pin touched others and caused a short circuit that fried the motherboard. So lesson of the day: don't spend 3 days browsing the forums and banging your head agains the wall - just take it to a repair shop because they know how to troubleshoot more than you.
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
When you remove the CMOS battery, make sure it's not replaced before 15mins. You don't need to short the two pins when you remove the battery. Also, mind sharing which version of the BIOS you were on? You might want to breadboard the system with only the bare essentials. Also, to note, that PSU...is NOT the unit I'd have around any computer regardless of how much power the system might draw.

You can try working with a borrowed PSU to try and see if the unit is the issue r that the board might've been shorted due to that controller.
 

Sarloh

Honorable
Jan 12, 2014
22
0
10,520
2
When you remove the CMOS battery, make sure it's not replaced before 15mins. You don't need to short the two pins when you remove the battery. Also, mind sharing which version of the BIOS you were on? You might want to breadboard the system with only the bare essentials. Also, to note, that PSU...is NOT the unit I'd have around any computer regardless of how much power the system might draw.

You can try working with a borrowed PSU to try and see if the unit is the issue r that the board might've been shorted due to that controller.
I actually have a spare PSU, generic 430W with only one of the cpu plugs. Still gave it a try and it was the same - no action, with the red cpu led and ram lights on (fans weren't plugged in, but they would work).

BIOS wise, I took a look back when it did power on and it was a number between the last and second last version (F41 and F42c), date too, yet entirely unlisted on the website, but it did support my CPU and worked properly. That is, after I powered down the controller. So if anything, I doubt the controller did any damage.

I looked up frying the mobo. Seems like folk usually has some smoke or sound, I had neither and it appears to be just like when I first launched it.
 

Sarloh

Honorable
Jan 12, 2014
22
0
10,520
2
Took my PC to a repair shop (luckily ran by the same store as where I ordered all the parts). After a teardown they discovered that the reason behind all of this way that I've managed to bend a pin on the USB header on the motherboard. This bent pin touched others and caused a short circuit that fried the motherboard. So lesson of the day: don't spend 3 days browsing the forums and banging your head agains the wall - just take it to a repair shop because they know how to troubleshoot more than you.
 

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