https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Mrshp8
I have added the 280mm version on the Arctic CPU cooler. Looks like PCpartspicker doesn't include all possible merchants, so I have, for example, just found the monitor for €439 elsewhere. Looks like it might be a little cheaper in the end!
I'm just a bit insecure about the more expensive bits, at the moment. Maybe you could give me a little more guidance there, if I'm not being too demanding of your time!
So basically, I'm wondering regarding CPU, Motherboard, GPU (and maybe the monitor), how much difference in price and performance the next cheaper and the next dearer options would make respectively.
Also, a much more general question: With which of these parts does the brand matter? I mean, for example in the case of RAM, I guess what matters is this bit: "(2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200", so could I just order any RAM with those specifications and it wouldn't make a difference? Or did you specifically select this brand because it's better somehow?
Same goes for the SSDs, the case,...
And one final question: How much room would I need to allow "around" the case? Can it be wedged in between a wall and the side of my desk or does it need room to "breathe" and if so, how much is enough? I noticed some desks have a compartment for your PC, but that would mean that the same heated air would circulated within that space, right?
RAM - If you get DDR4-3200 you also want to look at the CAS Latency column. You want the RAM to have CAS Latency of 16 or lower for 3200MHz RAM. In the case of the RAM I selected it has 16-18-18-38
sub timings. Due to the latency numbers being larger than DDR or DDR2, the jump in performance from 16-18-18-38 RAM to 14-16-16-36 does not make as large a difference as the jump from 7-7-7-20 to 4-4-4-12 RAM in the DDR1 days. Reason is the percent change is smaller now so while 14-16-16-36 RAM is faster, your overall system performance will only increase by 1-2% for a 100%+ increase in price. All that being said the G.Skill RAM that I listed happens to be the cheapest on pcpartpicker. I did a quick look at the QVL for the suggested motherboard and that specific kit isn't on the list. However, there are other kits from G.Skill are. The cheapest RAM that is on the QVL is the
Kingston HyperX Fury. Just because something isn't listed on the QVL doesn't mean it won't work, it just hasn't been tested.
CPU - The next cheapest option is the Ryzen 3700X. In applications the difference in performance between the 3700X & 3800X is maximum 5%. The applications with the most instances of 5% difference are rendering/encoding applications. There are advantages of going with the 3700X as well. One huge difference is the 65W TDP vs 105W TDP. For the Ryzen 65W CPUs the max power draw to the socket is 88W vs 142W for the 105W CPUs. The lower power draw means that 3700X produces less heat and the stock 125W TRDP cooler is enough to keep it cool. Best reason not to use the stock cooler for the 3700X is that it gets too loud. However, a mid-range air cooler runs 40-50 Euro and will be a solid replacement.
Motherboard - The MSI X570 Gaming Edge WiFi is a budget X570 motherboard. The VRMs are all cooled by heatsinks. The VRMs are a 4+1 design with doublers making it an effective 8+2 design, which is typical of budget boards. Due to the VRM setup this isn't a motherboard that you would use for extreme overclocking, but mild overclocking is a possibility. Overall the board is a
solid budget X570 choice.
GPU - The direct downgrades, performance wise, from the 5700XT would be the 5700 or RTX 2060 Super. Both of those GPUs will have around a 10% drop in performance compared to the 5700XT depending on the game. Cost wise the same GPU brand and model in the 5700 vs 5700XT ends up being 11% cheaper before shipping costs.
Red Dragon 5700 vs
Red Dragon 5700XT. Going to the RTX 2060 Super there is an increase in price for a decrease in performance. The cheapest 2060 Super comes in at the same price as the mid level 5700XT. From a price/performance perspective there is little reason to go with the RTX 2060 Super.
Monitor - You have a budget of ~2000 Euro including monitor. While a cheaper monitor could be used and have savings added to a different component, the monitor is what can be used for the next decade or more. The Phillips monitor that I suggested uses the same Samsung panel that my C34F791 uses. While this panel is 2 years old and "only" has a 100Hz max refresh rate while newer ones are 120+Hz, it is already hard for GPUs to drive 2560x1440 games at 144 FPS much less 3440x1440 at 120 FPS. The monitor does have FreeSync so when that is enabled the monitor will be able to adjust its refresh rate from 48-100Hz to keep games smooth. Because 21:9 monitors are still more of a niche product even the "budget" ones are at least mid level 16:9 quality.
A review of this monitor states: "The bottom line; a solidly built and feature-rich monitor offering an immersive UltraWide experience, more for work than play." While it may be for more "work than play," for Total War 2 it is more than enough. Here is a
full article on the experience of ultrawide monitors. For myself having gone with an ultrawide monitor 2 years ago, I would never go back to a normal 16:9 monitor for home use ever again. The extra screen real estate is a nice bonus and for productivity it cannot be beat. I am able to replicate the use case of 3 of the 4 monitors I have at my office desk with my single monitor while working at home.
Case - I choose that case due to design, features, performance, and silence. I personally love the minimalist design of the case and it has
good performance. The one I choose is windowless so that means there is sound dampening material on both side panels. That will keep the system much quieter than cases without it. The added 140mm case fan is to be used on the front to increase airflow into the case. Ideally this will give a positive pressure design that will limit dust buildup. You can go with a cheaper case, but then you will sacrifice performance, features, or how quiet it is.
SSD - Right now the difference in price between a top end SATA SSD and the budget NVMe drives is minimal, with the NVMe being slightly more expensive. Even though they are budget NVMe drives, they are always faster than the top SATA drives. The Crucial P1 is a decent budget drive and will work quite nicely as the OS/Application drive. It is all of 7 Euros more expensive than the SATA WD Blue SSD, but you will get about double the performance, at least benchmarks show that. The 1TB SSD is the WD Blue SN550, it is the best budget NVMe SSD you can get. For the extra 15 Euro over the Sabrent Rocket Q it is worth while for the best budget drive. 15 Euros more than the SN550 gets you the ADATA XPG 8200 Pro which is a high end NVMe drive. On paper the performance is about double the SN550, but in real world benchmarks the performance is much closer. The SATA WD Blue SSD comes in at 30 Euros cheaper than the SN550. At this point in time it doesn't make much sense to use SATA SSD if you have free M.2 NVMe slots. The NVMe is the newer technology and the next gen consoles are both going to have NVMe SSDs in them. In theory the developers might be able to find a use for the extra performance that those SSDs offer.
For the space around the case you need enough room for air to flow behind it. My desktop is about 10-12cm from the wall and has about 3cm free space on each side. If this is going to be on a carpeted floor you will want to have something hard underneath it like a board. Reason is carpet will block airflow from underneath the case so having a hard object under the case is ideal. There are two big reasons to have a case setup with positive air pressure. First it keeps dust to a minimum by forcing the incoming air through the intake fans that have dust filters. Secondly expelled hot air isn't recycled because all the fresh air comes in from the front.
Silverstone did a write up of the difference between positive and negative pressure designs in a case.
Here is another design with changing the CPU & cooler, I added one more case fan for the front intake to make doubly sure it is positive air flow design.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (€288.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler (€42.75 @ Aquatuning)
Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (€202.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (€133.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Crucial P1 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (€58.90 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (€135.19 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Dragon Video Card (€407.99 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case (€79.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€98.89 @ Alternate)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit (€40.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: Fractal Design X2 GP-14 (Black) 68.4 CFM 140 mm Fan (€16.82 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: Fractal Design X2 GP-14 (Black) 68.4 CFM 140 mm Fan (€16.82 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Monitor: Philips 345B1C/00 34.0" 3440x1440 100 Hz Monitor (€458.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €1980.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-17 15:52 CEST+0200
Someone was telling me about the Ryzen 9 3900X... 12 cores? How much better would that be? I assume it was for strictly budgetary reasons you didn't recommend it?
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