[SOLVED] New mobo, CPU unstable/overheating

[T15ER]

Setup:
CPU - AMD Ryzan 7 1800x
CPU cooler - Corsair H100 I v2
MOBO - Gigabyte GA-AX370-k5 --> now to current installed MSI x470 pro carbon
VID card - Asus Rog gtx 1080 - A8G - gaming 8GB
Ram - Corsair vengeance LPX 16gb 2x8 sticks DDR4
PSU - RAM'd a Corsair RM650x and went up to a EVGA supernova 1000 P2
HDD - Seagate barracuda 7200

Thanks for the time looking at my issue. I have been fighting this PC for the last couple weeks, first off with a couple of random restarts and after changing CPU cooler out and PSU, I am not to MOBO. Replaced the mobo with a MSI x470 pro carbon last night, thought everything was good, got past bios and into windows and was stable for a bit and was actively updating bios/etc. I must have updated wrong bios version or something because after the restart is was extremely unstable. Flashed new bios and am currently running 7B78v20 and its not making a difference. From start and getting into windows the CPU temp just climbs while my CPU cooler goes through the roof in RPM trying to keep up. I don't know where to turn, ive now put a bunch more money back into this trying to pinpoint the first issue of restarts right after mobo screen and then restarts on game startup with the old mobo.

Since the new mobo has been installed and I have had CPU issues, I have tried to reseat the CPU a couple times, each time cleaning thermal paste off and reapplying, no luck.

Hoping for some help.

Things I've tried so far:
Replaced CPU cooler
Replaced PSU from 650 to the 1000
Re-seated CPU after new CPU cooler
Re-seated Vid card multiple times
Fresh completely clean install of vid card drivers
general dusting/cleaning
Watching temps, don't seem to be an issue at all
Watching volts - really thought this could have been the problem which is why I went to a new PSU based off past reading but on both PSU my 12v and 5v were all consistent

 

[Lutfij]

The latest BIOS for your motherboard is 7B78V28.

 

[T15ER]

I was running that version after updating once in windows and that's where it started. Wish I never updated anything and I may still be stable. I updated all MSI tools through Live Update 6 or whatever, restarted after the updates and that's where it begins.

 

[ElectrO_90]

I would run the computer, then physically touch the 2 pipes on the h100i.
Only one of them should be warm.
The pumps break on these things all the time, I had to replace mine, but Corsair is a crap company to deal with.
If both pipes are warm/hot, then your h100i is dead, if one side is warm then it's working.
Obviously, the computer has to be running for a while to heat up the water a bit

 

[T15ER]

I would run the computer, then physically touch the 2 pipes on the h100i.
Only one of them should be warm.
The pumps break on these things all the time, I had to replace mine, but Corsair is a crap company to deal with.
If both pipes are warm/hot, then your h100i is dead, if one side is warm then it's working.
Obviously, the computer has to be running for a while to heat up the water a bit

Thank you so much for the reply. The Cooler is actually almost brand new, I RMA'd my old one because I thought it was the issue but couldn't wait so bought a new one in the meantime. I did try what you were mentioning though last night because I was wondering why the "corsair" word wasn't lit up and one was warm and the other was definitely cooler if not quite cold.

The comp currently will only run for maybe a minute once into windows before the temp climbs so high 90C+ on HWmonitor and it shuts off with CPU red light post on board. =(

 

[Lutfij]

Live update 6 is the main reason why all of their boards have gone through to RMA. You should always update the BIOS manually with a FAT32 pen drive. I'd humbly suggest you get onboard the latest BIOS version. Which version of Windows 10 are you on?

Also, stop creating multiple threads on the same topic. I've had to curtail 3 threads of the same topic and issue. Keep thoughts on one thread and be patient for suggestions/solutions.
Moderator
Lutfij

 

[T15ER]

Live update 6 is the main reason why all of their boards have gone through to RMA. You should always update the BIOS manually with a FAT32 pen drive. I'd humbly suggest you get onboard the latest BIOS version. Which version of Windows 10 are you on?

Also, stop creating multiple threads on the same topic. I've had to curtail 3 threads of the same topic and issue. Keep thoughts on one thread and be patient for suggestions/solutions.
Moderator
Lutfij

I can do it manually and try to go up to that v28 like you mentioned again, at this point anything is worth trying. I will do that when I get home and update from there (thank you very much for the firm input, I get it and ill try it! with a Fat32 pen, that's how I flashed bios recently back to v20). I am sure I am not updated to most recent on windows, problem is the system won't run long enough to do so at this point though.

 

[ElectrO_90]

You said the lights on the AIO are not lit up, are you sure it's all plugged in properly?
There are a lot of cables and if you miss one, well then it's not going to work correctly.
Block has CPU header and monitoring is done by the USB one - and of course the cables coming out connect to the fans as well.

 

[T15ER]

Live update 6 is the main reason why all of their boards have gone through to RMA. You should always update the BIOS manually with a FAT32 pen drive. I'd humbly suggest you get onboard the latest BIOS version. Which version of Windows 10 are you on?

Also, stop creating multiple threads on the same topic. I've had to curtail 3 threads of the same topic and issue. Keep thoughts on one thread and be patient for suggestions/solutions.
Moderator
Lutfij

Also reason I went back to v20, I thought this was a specific version meant for a ryzen 7 1800x, is that not the case? I just need to stay current and always manually update them?

 

[T15ER]

You said the lights on the AIO are not lit up, are you sure it's all plugged in properly?
There are a lot of cables and if you miss one, well then it's not going to work correctly.
Block has CPU header and monitoring is done by the USB one - and of course the cables coming out connect to the fans as well.

This MSI board has headers I haven't seen before with a CPU fan 1 header (I currently have the CPU cooler power into that) and then also a Pump1 header that has a different power or something either PWM or DC? the fan 1 I read is more auto and the other is more static. Do you know if that's true?

To answer your question though yes its like 4 outgoing connectors in total, 1 to usb for RGB, 1 to CPU fan 1 header for pump power and then 2 to fans.

 

[BringerOfTea]

"You said the lights on the AIO are not lit up, are you sure it's all plugged in properly?
There are a lot of cables and if you miss one, well then it's not going to work correctly.
Block has CPU header and monitoring is done by the USB one - and of course the cables coming out connect to the fans as well."

Like electron said?!

 

[T15ER]

Here for all, I did a diagram hoping this will help. There is no CPU fan 2 that I can find.

Diagram mobo

 

[T15ER]

also make sure the SATA power to the pump header is plugged in tight. I have noticed sometime these are cheesy loose connections so zip them together. disregard the two 4 pin pigtails from the pump wiring.

Sata power to the pump header you mean the cable that plugs right into the side of the header? I think right now I have the fans plugged into the two 4 pin pigtails from the pump you are talking about, you don't use them at all and plug the 2 fans into the headers like you have on the diagram? why do they even have that wire then?

 

[T15ER]

Hey so here now working with it. Going to try to flash bios to most recent version again and see what happens.

For the radiator fans, I can't get them both onto CPU Fan 1 so one would need to go elsewhere and only other spot would be a system fan spot. If i plug the pump power connector into the pump 1 on that diagram wouldn't it mean its always going extremely high RPM just off the get go and no variance according to load/temp where as if it was on CPU fan 1 it would go according to temp?

 

[T15ER]

All signs point to my pump and radiator/fans working fine, they are on constantly from the get go. My CPU gets to hot even though the cooler is working then restarts and gives CPU error light. I really can't see why connecting the 2 fans that are already going extremely high RPM to the MB will make a difference. Even with cooler running (can tell by tubes) its still getting to hot.

 

[T15ER]

I think that board is bad. If it is still shutting off due to overheating sub out a different know good board. Be careful swapping the CPU as it may have attached it self to the cooling block side of the pump head. You got a wild one there my friend.

What I don't understand though is when I am in bios or flashing bios, its like it should be, like normal on a low load. Fans aren't going super fast and temps are hovering mid 40C and not continuing to climb.

 

[T15ER]

Hey all so update - I went out last night and got a Ryzen 7 2700 to continue trouble shooting. I read once of the common leads to a CPU going bad is a lot of the same issues I was having with my 1800x so I spent the money. I need to get this this up and running stable and well.

I plugged it into the old motherboard Gigabyte GA-AX370-k5 (both motherboards I have are capable with the new 2700) when I started it up the everything seemed to work except for the mobo. The mobo there were no led lights on or anything and was almost like it wasn't getting power but I noticed right when I hit the power button the LEDs on the mobo would flash quick but then go off. It wouldn't post after starting and I continued to get the "CPU" debug light on mobo". I tried clearing CMOS, tried the ram trick.

Think it is just because the Mobo doesn't detect such a new CPU? Do I just turn to the other Mobo I have and try that? I am a bit hesitant with the MSI x470 pro carbon because it seems a bit more complicated with the CPU cooler etc just getting it to run stable normal, I don't need to OC anything.

 

[T15ER]

Thanks Radical, really appreciate your time/input through all this.

Update - currently up and running but it sure cost me to get there. Swapped out MOBO/CPU/CPU cooler in the process to just get a stable setup. Only problem is I don't know which of those 3 is actually bad. I tried going the 1 for 1 route root causing the issue and hit the snag when my old mobo the one in question needed a bios update in order to be capable with the new 2700x cpu and I couldn't even get it through the bios update without CPU overheating. That forced me to swap mobos as well.

Made another post about putting the H100I on the MSI mobo im currently running to get off from the stock cooler in another thread if you have input.

Again, thanks a ton.