[SOLVED] NEW PC Build - Powered up, began installing windows, then all Peripherals (mouse/keyboard/monitor) stopped working and now won't work?

Mar 12, 2021
2
0
10
Hey all, hoping you can help with some clarity!

Me and my girlfriend just build a couple new computers over the weekend. We are currently experiencing some rather frustrating issues with her build.

Build:
CPU: i7-10700K
GPU: EVG 3060
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490M GAMING EDGE WIFI MATX Gaming Motherboard AX WIFI 6 Realtek 2.5G LAN JRAINBOW ARGB
RAM: 2x16GB Kingston HyperX
PSU: Corsair CX650X - RGB
Case: Cooler Master Box TD500 Mesh ARGB (3x120mm onboard fans)
Extra Cooling: 3x Corsair SP120 RGB fans


Issue:
Build went well, itself, and all things fired up. Display fired up, keyboard and mouse on, BIOS loaded. We had a USB with windows on it from an older PC, and began install. Install continued on for awhile. Then suddenly (not sure if it was at a necessary moment for install or not) the PC shut down. When we restarted it, all lights, fans, etc. turned on, but the display won't turn on, and the peripheral mouse and keyboard are not lighting up.

Super frustrating to go from 'all running smooth' to 'what on Earth happened?' so fast. Any and all advice and help welcome, thanks!

-Eric & Jenny
 
Solution
Well we have been trouble shooting a bit, and it just seems odd that it would work initially all the way through nearly finishing windows install. I have noticed now that it is not passing CPU EZ-LED check on the MOBO, but the CPU was registering fine prior to beginning that Windows install in the BIOS.
The most likely culprits in descending order are:

1. PSU / RAM -Both of these are relatively easy to check. For the PSU either test it in another system, or test another PSU in the system with issues. You can also try the paperclip test, if you do not know what this is its easier to google it to see what it is. RAM can be tested stick by stick and slot by slot. Ex: Stick 1 test for boot in slot 1, then 2, then 3, then 4 followed...
Mar 12, 2021
2
0
10
Maybe a lemon PSU. If you can test the components with another PSU.

Well we have been trouble shooting a bit, and it just seems odd that it would work initially all the way through nearly finishing windows install. I have noticed now that it is not passing CPU EZ-LED check on the MOBO, but the CPU was registering fine prior to beginning that Windows install in the BIOS.
 
Well we have been trouble shooting a bit, and it just seems odd that it would work initially all the way through nearly finishing windows install. I have noticed now that it is not passing CPU EZ-LED check on the MOBO, but the CPU was registering fine prior to beginning that Windows install in the BIOS.
The most likely culprits in descending order are:

1. PSU / RAM -Both of these are relatively easy to check. For the PSU either test it in another system, or test another PSU in the system with issues. You can also try the paperclip test, if you do not know what this is its easier to google it to see what it is. RAM can be tested stick by stick and slot by slot. Ex: Stick 1 test for boot in slot 1, then 2, then 3, then 4 followed by stick 2 in slot 1, et cetera.

2. Graphics Card / GPU - Try uninstalling the Graphics card and see if the system behave differently. If possible test in a different system. Also if your CPU has an iGPU ,or integrated graphics processor, try testing the system with the display ports on the motherboard out to display.

3. MOBO - For intel check for bent pins. This is one of the harder components to test in the case of an AMD CPU. You need another system that it can be swapped into.

4. CPU - Check for any bent pins on the CPU for AMD. For intel you need to test this in another motherboard / system.

5. Storage Device - This is an easy test. Disconnect all storage devices except the desired boot drive. Try to install win10. If it still does not work test with a different storage device. Also if it is connected via SATA check in both the CPU controlled SATA ports and the Chipset controlled ports, 1-2 ports of each.

Some small but possible issues to check for;

1. Check to make sure you connected all of the motherboard power connectors FIRMLY, which include the 20+4 pin motherboard power connector and the 1 or 2 4-8 pin CPU power connectors.

2. Check to make sure there are no screws or conductive parts on any of the exposed PCB or any components to rule out a short. This is easily tested by gently shaking the case and listening to anything jostling around.

3. Make sure that there are no unused motherboard standoffs in the case. These motherboard standoffs can short it from below. Its also a good idea while you are at it to make sure that all the available standoffs are being used for your specific motherboard.

4. Check to see if you are daisy chaining your PCIe power connectors to the Graphics Card. Each 6 or 8 pin connector on the Card should have its own dedicated power cord from the PSU.
 
Solution

TRENDING THREADS