New PC Build - System Boots, but Nothing to Screen

[DevDep]

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XVDBwV

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Extreme4
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply



So, I finally did it, built my first computer! I went ahead and put everything together and Friday and held my breath as I booted for the first time..... IT WORKED! All fans buzzed on, all lights worked, I even saw something on my screen! The computer started its POST, and was at about 45% when I had to go pee. I know, I know, how could I leave the room during that very first POST? I had been holding my pee for a long time, antsy to get the build done. When I came back, the PC was off, and nothing was on my screen. Since then, I have not had ANYTHING get back to my screen. The PC still boots up, all the fans work, all components seem to be working.... but I have never gotten back to a POST or BIOS screen. My monitor doesn't even pick anything up.

One important note to mention: My MOBO had a red light on it next to the BIOS 1 chip, this was representing the BIOS in use.... even though it was red I researched and saw this was normal. I have not seen that red light come on since the first POST.

I have gone through Tom's Hardware check list more times than I can count. I have tried single stick RAM in all slots, both sticks. I have really tried everything that I could think of, I even started from scratch yesterday. One of my good friends who has built several PCs in the past came over and did his routine, no luck. I am at a point where I am going to try to reset my CMOS, I am wondering if the POST for some reason corrupted the first time?? And the BIOS is locked in a bad place? My MOBO does not have a CMOS jumper or a case speaker, I have both of those on order now. This is my first build so I am not too familiar with troubleshooting, although I am relatively tech savvy and can understand a lot of what I read.

PLEASE HELP! I need some beautiful games. I am updating from my 2011 PC that was still running a 560 TI, and I really want to check out my new system Thanks ahead of time for any help geared my way.

 

[rgd1101]

if you gone thru the check list, is that mean you try booting without the gtx 1080 and still no post?

 

[DevDep]

if you gone thru the check list, is that mean you try booting without the gtx 1080 and still no post?

Yes, I have tried all different connection ports on back of MOBO, two monitors, and different HDMI chords. I feel as if the first POST read the GPU, since my first boot was connected to GPU, and keeps looking for it? I have tried multiple boots with the GPU, and multiple without the GPU.

 

[rgd1101]

I mean did you take the gtx 1080 out. and test only with the iGPU.

 

[DevDep]

I mean did you take the gtx 1080 out. and test only with the iGPU.

Yes. When I toyed around by trying to boot from the iGPU I removed the GPU completely. I have been leaving the connection in the PSU though. The GPU was out of the PCEI slot, and not connected to the chord that goes to PSU.

 

[rgd1101]

Since it got 2 bios, try using the backup bios?

 

[DevDep]

Since it got 2 bios, try using the backup bios?

I am not familiar with a way to boot from the other BIOS, how would I make that happen without seeing anything on my screen ever?

 

[P_1___]

did you try using onboard video yet ?

 

[P_1___]

oops didnt see Dev

 

[DevDep]

did you try using onboard video yet ?

Yes. I have tried the iGPU several times, with and without the GPU connected. This includes all the different ports, with multiple chords, and different monitors.

 

[nitroscott17]

I have built about 10 windows 10 computer this year and have honestly experience this on atleast 4 of them, pulling the battery doesn't seem to always just work, i usually try this and it usually works: turn off the pc, flip the psu power switch to the off position, remove the power cable (i'm sure this is unnecessary, but is just an extra step as precaution), pull the cmos battery and press (and hold for 3 seconds) the power switch, look for two jumpers somewhere on your board that should say jbat1, try holding these together for say 10-15 seconds (i found an old ide hard drive laying around and removed the blue jumper that toggles between master and slave then used that as a tool free, short free method of doing this) if you cant find a jumper laying around a metal screwdriver will do the trick. just be careful not to touch any solder points on the board with the screwdriver, i slipped and shorted an i7 doing that. sorry op for the long answer, hope this helps!

 

[DevDep]

I have built about 10 windows 10 computer this year and have honestly experience this on atleast 4 of them, pulling the battery doesn't seem to always just work, i usually try this and it usually works: turn off the pc, flip the psu power switch to the off position, remove the power cable (i'm sure this is unnecessary, but is just an extra step as precaution), pull the cmos battery and press (and hold for 3 seconds) the power switch, look for two jumpers somewhere on your board that should say jbat1, try holding these together for say 10-15 seconds (i found an old ide hard drive laying around and removed the blue jumper that toggles between master and slave then used that as a tool free, short free method of doing this) if you cant find a jumper laying around a metal screwdriver will do the trick. just be careful not to touch any solder points on the board with the screwdriver, i slipped and shorted an i7 doing that. sorry op for the long answer, hope this helps!

No worries on the long reply, I'd read a book if I knew it was going to fix my PC

Are those two jumpers you mention (jbat1) different than the ones for the CMOS reset? I actually have two pins on the MOBO that are labeled as CMOS, and the manual instructs me to use those as the method to reset CMOS. I have a CMOS jumper on its way, I was scared to even try this with a screwdriver lol.

 

[nitroscott17]

I have built about 10 windows 10 computer this year and have honestly experience this on atleast 4 of them, pulling the battery doesn't seem to always just work, i usually try this and it usually works: turn off the pc, flip the psu power switch to the off position, remove the power cable (i'm sure this is unnecessary, but is just an extra step as precaution), pull the cmos battery and press (and hold for 3 seconds) the power switch, look for two jumpers somewhere on your board that should say jbat1, try holding these together for say 10-15 seconds (i found an old ide hard drive laying around and removed the blue jumper that toggles between master and slave then used that as a tool free, short free method of doing this) if you cant find a jumper laying around a metal screwdriver will do the trick. just be careful not to touch any solder points on the board with the screwdriver, i slipped and shorted an i7 doing that. sorry op for the long answer, hope this helps!

No worries on the long reply, I'd read a book if I knew it was going to fix my PC

Are those two jumpers you mention (jbat1) different than the ones for the CMOS reset? I actually have two pins on the MOBO that are labeled as CMOS, and the manual instructs me to use those as the method to reset CMOS. I have a CMOS jumper on its way, I was scared to even try this with a screwdriver lol.

Yes the cmos jumper is what I'm talking about. on my am4 platforms they're all jbat1 my apologies for not being more specific. If you are careful and ensure you only touch the two pins you should be fine. If I have to use a screwdriver I would use a flathead and just barely touch them. They don't need lots of pressure just a touch. Hope you get up and running soon!

 

[P_1___]

I read where you say you have BOTH , the case speaker & the CMOS jumper on order.
The CMOS jumper ( OR SWITCH/BUTTON) is just a momentary switch , like a doorbell, that crosses 2 connections.
, It can be done manually on the board itself, by using any jumper.
Most boards have a jumper already hanging on one of the pins, ready to use.

Most boards have a 3 pin header but looking at this user manual

http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/Z370%20Extreme4.pdf

IF THIS IS YOUR BOARD
Your jumper is a two prong ( #25 on the diagram )
Page 21.

ANYWAY WATCH THIS VIDEO
...Start it at 7:30 )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbyB-drELXE

GOOD LUCK

 

[DevDep]

I read where you say you have BOTH , the case speaker & the CMOS jumper on order.
The CMOS jumper ( OR SWITCH/BUTTON) is just a momentary switch , like a doorbell, that crosses 2 connections.
, It can be done manually on the board itself, by using any jumper.
Most boards have a jumper already hanging on one of the pins, ready to use.

Most boards have a 3 pin header but looking at this user manual

http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/Z370%20Extreme4.pdf

IF THIS IS YOUR BOARD
Your jumper is a two prong ( #25 on the diagram )
Page 21.

ANYWAY WATCH THIS VIDEO
...Start it at 7:30 )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbyB-drELXE

GOOD LUCK

That is indeed my MOBO! I will be getting the jumper sometime today and trying out the method shown in the video! Thanks for all the replies thus far, and if anything else stands out as a method I should attempt let me know! I have been taking a little break from tinkering with this thing to keep my sanity, I'd love to go in prepared with a good amount of options to walk away with it running next time

 

[DevDep]

My CMOS reset did nothing. I am back at the start with no options in sight......