Question New PC build won't power on, mobo logo lit, nothing else working


Feb 20, 2016
Newly built PC won't power on. Only activity, logo in the corner of motherboard cycles thru rainbow lighting when the rocker switch on back of psu is on. Nothing else, no fan movement, no other lights, nothing on the monitor screen. No sound whatsoever. I had the system speaker that came with the case installed correctly and there was no sound from it. I think the pc needs to be booting up before that makes any sound.

Power supply unit and video card are both from my older system. Both worked before and are now working perfectly back in my old PC. It's not them unless there is some kind of compatibility issue. (see full descriptions of each component below)

Things I attempted:
-The power button on the front of this new case was getting stuck. (I'll first be returning this case partly for that reason, and many others actually) So I connected the reset button to the board where the power button would normally go. That had no effect. The pc didn't power on with it either. I tried this with no other panel connectors plugged in. This has me thinking it's probably not the case unless both switches are bad. Side note, I made sure the small triangle was plugged into the live connection on the board and the one without the triangle was plugged into the ground (to be clear, the set of connector rods in the bottom corner of the mobo as labeled for the front panel items is where I plugged it in). I did try it the other way around just in case, live on ground/ground on live. But nothing was changed. All plugs for the front panel items were clearly labeled (one good thing about this case). It is hard to see where they go on the mobo with my 50+ year old eyes so I checked that very carefully multiple times. It was correct without a doubt both with the original power bottom plug and the reset plug. Just didn't function in any way. And as stated above, the power button was getting stuck tight then would come unstuck and eventually get stuck again. These buttons are not made to last like the very old ones in my old Rosewill case.
-Next, I tried only having 1 stick of ram in using the suggested config in the manual, A2 with one stick. No effect. (note, the second stick is in B2 which installed)
-Finally, I removed all fans from the mobo, except for the cpu fan of course, and daisy-chained the removed ones directly to the psu. Nothing changed.

What I plan to do:
-Return case. Get better one.
-In the meantime, diagnose if this is the mobo, Cpu, both. Compatibility issue with something else. Just need to know what to return using all this knowledge listed.
-I'd rather buy a new case and a new 1000w psu and maybe even a new gpu (looking at 2060, vega 56...or what I'd rather do and wait on a niva late this year) I'll probably not replace my gpu since I'm pretty sure it should work fine with this mobo. Worst thing is having to move these parts around so much. My old system works and it's all I have, in other words. I'd rather not try to run the mobo outside a case since I need to be able to return the mobo if it's broken. I don't want any problems doing that with any of the parts. But if it's a must I'll consider it with careful instructions on how to do it properly. And what it might do differently.

Parts used (names are from their amazon listings):
APEVIA X-Dreamer 4 ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case with 5 Fans
-was delivered by ups. Shipping box has a hole punched in top edge. didn't damage the case inside. not an issue. rest of box looks fine.
-this case doesn't quite look like the picture on amazon. Very cheesy, the side window with the fan looks like a hamster cage. Would love to have a fake hamster going round and round on that thing. It does have 5 fans including the large one. The temperature display on front looks interesting but my guess is it isn't as good as expected since there only seems to be one probe. Plastic pieces on the front push inward, like this thing is ready to fall apart. It'd be afraid to put my hds in the built-in hot swap bay. I have a Thermaltake BlacX for that anyway. I regret buying this case. Can't wait to send it back and get a different one.

ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming Motherboard
-I used the standoffs and screws that came with the case. Checked, double checked everything and it looked perfect inside the case. Everything plugged in correctly.

AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
-the CPU was extremely easy to put in. All pins checked beforehand and were not bent. I had to remove some plastic rails from the mobo since the included cooler would go directly on the board. I stayed with the pre-installed compound on the cooler. The cooler has screws with springs that are a bit firm and scary to tighten. But after a little pressure I was able to get them locked in and tightened them in diagonal fashion until they were all tight but no overtight. Looked good.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15
-locked in the slots fine. The manual says use A2 and B2. Did that. As stated above, when I tried it with just one I removed B2. No effect.

ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 2280 Solid State Drive R/W 3500/3000MB/s SSD (ASX8200PNP-1TT-C)
-this is a blank ssd. I installed it in the first M.2 slot. Looked perfect, firmly in the slot. I have Windows 10 waiting on a flash to put on this drive.

Video card (bought from newegg in 2016)
Sapphire. R9 380x. uneventful install. although the power connections on the side were a tight fit next to that large fan on the case panel, slightly pushing on the plastic grating. I tested it beforehand and the fan turned without a problem. As said previously, this gpu is back in my old system and running fine.

PSU (actually bought from newegg in 2011)
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
-have never had a problem with this. The larger power cable was firmly in place in the board, checked several times to make sure. The smaller one used both pieces, on my older board it only needed one half of the plug. It was firm and looked good. The board was getting power for sure. It's 750w, seems like that should be enough to power this.

Monitor (bought about 10 years ago still works like a charm)
ASUS 24" LCD. connected using the DVI
-works perfectly back on my old pc. Only showed black on the new one.


Feb 20, 2016
someone on the cnet forum told me if you use the reset button instead of the power on button you have to hold down the button for a few seconds as if you're doing a reset. i'll be trying this before the outside box test.