Question New PC crashing and restarting during certain games

Clueless1200

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Hi all,

Only had this PC for about a month and have had this problem since day one. At first it was every game, usually the image would freeze for a second and the sound would glitch out, then a black screen, then it eventually restarts. I sent it off to the warranty/repair guys and they somehow claimed they couldn't find a fault even after hours of testing (they did also update the BIOS and reinstall Windows, not sure if they did that immediately). Things were fine with all games for about a week or so, and they still seem to be fine with most, but games like Arkham Knight and Control will usually crash my whole system in about 20 minutes or less. Every time it happens the Event Viewer says "The GLCKIO2 service failed to start due to the following error: The system cannot find the file specified."

Specs:
Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC (haven't overclocked it myself)
Ryzen 3700X (not overclocked)
Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB 3200MHz
Corsair TX650M 650W Modular 80+ Gold PSU
Adata XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB M.2-2280 NVMe PCIe SSD
Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA III SSD
Seagate BarraCuda 2TB SATA III 3.5" Hard Drive
Gigabyte B450 AORUS PRO AMD Socket AM4 Motherboard

I also had some pretty weird visual glitches on Arkham Knight the other day, the colours were completely off. I restarted shortly after, and that problem never came back but the crashing persisted. A few hours before this started happening again, I had updated Windows and also enabled an XMP profile so my RAM could run at 3200MHz. Could try turning that off and see if it makes a difference, but when I first got this system the crashing was already happening before I'd done that.

EDIT: Forgot to say, I've also reinstalled Windows myself and uninstalled/reinstalled drivers with DDU a bunch of times. Sick of it.

Also, shortly before I sent it off for repairs, at one point I got a BSOD saying "critical process died" I think. Was totally locked out of Windows and had to reinstall.

EDIT 2: Disabled the XMP profile and Arkham Knight seems to be running OK, just played for about 35 minutes.

EDIT 3: Control seems fine now too. Been running for over an hour with no issues. So I guess I have faulty RAM?
 
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My first suggestion would be to check your MB BIOS to see what BIOS version you're on. Reason being your CPU is the new gen 3 Ryzen, and in checking I found some of the latest BIOS versions of your MB have descriptions involving 3rd gen Ryzen. This means you probably should be on at the very least BIOS version F40.

I assumed you're on W10 64 bit when doing the search btw.

https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/B450-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios
 

Clueless1200

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My first suggestion would be to check your MB BIOS to see what BIOS version you're on. Reason being your CPU is the new gen 3 Ryzen, and in checking I found some of the latest BIOS versions of your MB have descriptions involving 3rd gen Ryzen. This means you probably should be on at the very least BIOS version F40.

I assumed you're on W10 64 bit when doing the search btw.

https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/B450-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios
It was updated to F41 before it was sent out, the repair guys updated it to the most recent one.
 
It was updated to F41 before it was sent out, the repair guys updated it to the most recent one.
Except that's not the most recent one now, F42c is. Apparently you did not use the link I provided. It also says something about both AGESA changes and a change pertaining to Ryzen gen 3...

  1. Update AGESA 1.0.0.3 ABBA
  2. Improve Destiny 2 gaming compatibility
  3. PCIe Gen4 disabled when using a 3rd Gen Ryzen (Matisse) CPU due to AGESA change
Note:
Before updating BIOS to this new version, you MUST follow the steps as BIOS F40 Note's description in advanced


Specs look pretty good and compatible. What's the display and video cable though (brand/model/standard-HDMI, DP)? Also what Hz is your display and what refresh is it running at in Windows?

I would not advise turning XMP off, it's always the recommended setting and Corsair Vengeance is fully capable of handling it (as you can see by my sig, I use it). Instead, if on W10, check it's build version. 1903 is the latest, and used to have crash/freeze problems in some games. Since the last cumulative update about a week ago, part of which addressed a problem with false errors (out of mem, GPU not responding), I've not had such problems anymore.

Also, if the PC was purchased at a reputable place, and was tested properly at their site, it very well could be a problem with house wiring or the outlet you're plugged into, or even a power surge, or you overloading the outlet it's plugged into. It's best to plug a gaming PC into a decent quality surge protector, especially if you have frequent electrical storms in your area. It's also best to plug any moderately high amperage components, like sound systems, TVs, etc, into a separate outlet.
 
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Clueless1200

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Except that's not the most recent one now, F42c is. Apparently you did not use the link I provided. It also says something about both AGESA changes and a change pertaining to Ryzen gen 3...

  1. Update AGESA 1.0.0.3 ABBA
  2. Improve Destiny 2 gaming compatibility
  3. PCIe Gen4 disabled when using a 3rd Gen Ryzen (Matisse) CPU due to AGESA change
Note:
Before updating BIOS to this new version, you MUST follow the steps as BIOS F40 Note's description in advanced


Specs look pretty good and compatible. What's the display and video cable though (brand/model/standard-HDMI, DP)? Also what Hz is your display and what refresh is it running at in Windows?
Sorry, I meant the repair guys updated it from F41 to F42c. So I've been on that for a while. It was on F41 when it was sent to me, I know that for sure because Destiny 2 wouldn't launch.

My monitor is an Aorus AD27QD running at 144hz. I'm using the DP cable it came with.

I'm still in contact with the engineer at the repair centre and they obviously don't really know what the issue is. So far the only thing I've found that makes a difference is disabling the XMP profile. Uninstalling drivers with DDU would sometimes fix it for about a day before, then it would come back. This was before I sent it off for repairs.
 
So far the only thing I've found that makes a difference is disabling the XMP profile. Uninstalling drivers with DDU would sometimes fix it for about a day before, then it would come back. This was before I sent it off for repairs.
Are you running an OC by any chance on the CPU or GPU? XMP causing problems should only happen if there's something out of order, like a bad RAM module, or an unstable OC, particularly on the CPU, since it's what works closely together with the RAM.

As for the RAM, to test it, run one stick at a time in the first slot. This is a method that usually determines if one is faulty. To thoroughly test, run a full Memtest86 scan, and let it go through ALL the tests, which can take over 2 hrs.
https://www.memtest86.com/

Did the guys at the shop even run a full memory test? If not they should have. If they say they did, ask them if they ran a full length memtest86 scan using all the tests. It's rare that Corsair Vengeance is faulty out of the box, but possible.
 
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Clueless1200

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Are you running an OC by any chance on the CPU or GPU? XMP causing problems should only happen if there's something out of order, like an unstable CPU OC.
I haven't overclocked anything myself, don't even know how to. This has been happening since the very first time I fired up a game on day one, crashed within ten minutes or something.
 
I haven't overclocked anything myself, don't even know how to. This has been happening since the very first time I fired up a game on day one, crashed within ten minutes or something.
Did you assemble it or did you buy it from a custom PC build house that did? If the latter, does the shipping slip or any of their info say anything about an OC, either charged for or included?
 

Clueless1200

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Did you assemble it or did you buy it from a custom PC build house that did? If the latter, does the shipping slip or any of their info say anything about an OC, either charged for or included?
I bought all the parts from CCL in the UK and they built it before shipping it off. They haven't specified anything about overclocking to me, but the listing for the card said "pre-overclocked edition", as most cards on their site do. Not really sure what that means as the card itself is supposed to be factory overclocked I think. I don't see anyone else listing their cards as pre-overclocked. They're a pretty reputable site though.
 
I bought all the parts from CCL in the UK and they built it before shipping it off. They haven't specified anything about overclocking to me, but the listing for the card said "pre-overclocked edition", as most cards on their site do. Not really sure what that means as the card itself is supposed to be factory overclocked I think. I don't see anyone else listing their cards as pre-overclocked. They're a pretty reputable site though.
I'm pretty sure they're just letting their customers know that version of the GPU has a factory OC. In my experience factory OCs are usually, but not always trustworthy. That said, the only case I had where one wasn't, was with an AMD GPU though, and even a Sapphire, which ironically is an AMD exclusive brand, and usually highly regarded.

It was a dual BIOS 7970, which had a switch to change speed from 950Mhz to 1000MHz. After a few years, the dual fan unit had one fan go bad. I was lucky to find an exact replacement on eBay for $12, installed it, and it ran fine. Then eventually, say after 3.5 years from purcahse, it would no longer run on 1000MHz without artifacting, so I had to lower it to 950MHz.
 

Clueless1200

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I'm pretty sure they're just letting their customers know that version of the GPU has a factory OC. In my experience factory OCs are usually, but not always trustworthy. That said, the only case I had where one wasn't, was with an AMD GPU though, and even a Sapphire, which ironically is an AMD exclusive brand, and usually highly regarded.

It was a dual BIOS 7970, which had a switch to change speed from 950Mhz to 1000MHz. After a few years, the dual fan unit had one fan go bad. I was lucky to find an exact replacement on eBay for $12, installed it, and it ran fine. Then eventually, say after 3.5 years from purcahse, it would no longer run on 1000MHz without artifacting, so I had to lower it to 950MHz.
So basically I should try underclocking it a tiny bit? Would I see any noticeable difference in performance at all?

At first I did think I had a faulty GPU, since I would get a grey fuzzy screen on certain games for a bit, usually when HDR was on. Can't remember how I fixed it. My desktop resolution would also randomly go down to 480p at times.

And as I said, I had more weird visual glitches the other day where the colours were all wrong.
Are you running an OC by any chance on the CPU or GPU? XMP causing problems should only happen if there's something out of order, like a bad RAM module, or an unstable OC, particularly on the CPU, since it's what works closely together with the RAM.

As for the RAM, to test it, run one stick at a time in the first slot. This is a method that usually determines if one is faulty. To thoroughly test, run a full Memtest86 scan, and let it go through ALL the tests, which can take over 2 hrs.
https://www.memtest86.com/

Did the guys at the shop even run a full memory test? If not they should have. If they say they did, ask them if they ran a full length memtest86 scan using all the tests. It's rare that Corsair Vengeance is faulty out of the box, but possible.
Just saw your edit here, I'll ask them about this, thanks.
 
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I wouldn't underclock an Nvidia based factory OCed GPU necessarily. Check to see if there's an OC on the CPU. Sometimes high volume build houses rush through those and don't stress test as well as they should.

Since buying an EVGA 1080 with reference Nvidia PCB, I'm sold on EVGA. I trust their GPUs. I've had bad experiences with MSI on a compat issue they didn't handle well at all. Newegg saved me with a full refund.

A key thing with GPUs, is always buy them at a reputable place that allows returns within 30 days for any reason, like Newegg, B&H Photo, and Amazon. Make sure you test them thoroughly within 2-3 weeks.
 

Clueless1200

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I wouldn't underclock an Nvidia based factory OCed GPU necessarily. Check to see if there's an OC on the CPU. Sometimes high volume build houses rush through those and don't stress test as well as they should.

Since buying an EVGA 1080 with reference Nvidia PCB, I'm sold on EVGA. I trust their GPUs. I've had bad experiences with MSI on a compat issue they didn't handle well at all. Newegg saved me with a full refund.

A key thing with GPUs, is always buy them at a reputable place that allows returns within 30 days for any reason, like Newegg, B&H Photo, and Amazon. Make sure you test them thoroughly within 2-3 weeks.
I see. I always hear good things about EVGA, yeah. Might go with them next time.

I don't know the first thing about overclocking CPUs though honestly, this is the first desktop I've ever even owned. How would I go about checking that?

My CPU is loud as all hell even while browsing, but I assumed that was the mediocre stock cooler.
 
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All you need do is use Task Manager (Performance>CPU), MSI Afterburner, or look in the MB BIOS to see if the CPU is OCed. These are listed by simplest way first. The main BIOS page generally has a real time CPU clock so you know what speed it's running at.

The specs on that CPU are Base clock 3.6 GHz, and Max Boost clock 4.4GHZ. At idle without an OC your CPU would probably be running more like anywhere from 1-2 GHz. If OCed it would run at a constant 4GHz or more.
 

Clueless1200

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All you need do is use Task Manager (Performance>CPU), MSI Afterburner, or look in the MB BIOS to see if the CPU is OCed. These are listed by simplest way first. The main BIOS page generally has a real time CPU clock so you know what speed it's running at.

The specs on that CPU are Base clock 3.6 GHz, and Max Boost clock 4.4GHZ. At idle without an OC your CPU would probably be running more like anywhere from 1-2 GHz. If OCed it would run at a constant 4GHz or more.
Uh... so does this mean it's OC'd? I only have Chrome with a few tabs, Discord and Steam (no games) running right now... it fluctuates between 3.70-ish GHz to about 4.22.



It's absurdly late here but I'll take a look at the BIOS in the morning too.
 

Clueless1200

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Forgot to say, you need to do this check while Windows Power Plan is in Balanced, not High Performance mode.

Also, do it while your PC is idling, rather than with a game running.
OK, so on balanced and with pretty much nothing running, just sitting there on the desktop, it fluctuates from about 2.64-3.99GHz.

With Chrome, Discord and Steam running (no games), it goes from 3.60-4.17GHz.
 
That's a lot higher than my 8700k runs at idle (mine's 1-2 GHz), but AMDs can run higher speed and voltage at idle. That said, I don't have ANY W10 telemetry running, as I've turned off everything that uses it, and have even used Spybot Anti-Beacon to immunize against it. I also have only 4 startups running. That can result in as much as 1GB less RAM used, and might lower CPU idle speed as well.

That said, just the fact that yours runs as low as 2.64 GHz tells me it's not OCed.
 

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