New PC game freeze please help..

Oct 27, 2018
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Okay, I need some help

Specs:
CPU: i7-9700k with Kraken X52 cooler
MOBO: Asrock Z390 Taichi
GPU: Aorus Xtreme 1080 ti 11G
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 3200mhz TWO 2x8 Kits ( didn't know this was bad)
Storage: OS drive Samsung M.2, 3TB Seagate storage HD
PSU: Corsair RM850x (2018 model)

THE PROBLEM
So, I am having a issue where my games will launch (tested with Fortnite and COD Black ops 4) the menus will come up fine usually then I get into a game and within 30 seconds the match will freeze up. I can't close, I have to task manager and force shut down the games.
The rest of the PC works fine I can tab down and use other features but the game will be stuck until I force close. (through all this I still get sound from the game even when froze.

Some of my troubleshoots
Windows is up to date
I've used the program to remove all nvidia files and then updated to the latest drivers.
My bios is up to date.
All of my hardware is staying cool
I used a stability test Nvidia support recommended to see if the GPU crashed and it ran for a hour and a half with no problems.

I am completely lost on what to do next
My ram load seems to be fine, CPU load stays under 40%
HELP!!

Should be noted, I did boot up rocket league and it seemed to function properly?? Maybe because it is a easier game to run.

Hopefully someone has some answers. Thank you so much!
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
First, don't bump. It's highly frowned upon here. Be patient, somebody will be along before too long and you have to factor in what day of the week it is, how many folks likely have work/lives the next day, are there games on, etc. Generally somebody will be along before too long. 'Nuff said.


So, first of all, your memory is only running at 2133mhz, not at it's XMP value of 3200mhz. I think you need to address that first.

Go into the bios, enable the XMP profile for the memory, save settings and exit. If for any reason the system will not POST after enabling the XMP profile, you may have to reset the bios by removing the CMOS battery from the motherboard for 5 minutes and then putting it back, WITH the power unplugged until after the battery is back in the motherboard. Then power back on, go into the bios, set the XMP value AND increase the DRAM voltage by .005v increments until it will POST.

Keep in mind, after setting the XMP profile setting, the system MAY cycle through a few boots while it trains the memory. Let it do that, it is normal. If it does not train correctly and fails to POST with a POST screen error displayed or it resets the CMOS after several failed attempts to boot, then like I said you will need to reset the CMOS and bump up the DRAM voltage. If it still doesn't POST, do it again with .010v increase and so on until it does POST or you get to 1.4v, whichever comes first. Don't raise the DRAM voltage beyond 1.4v AND don't just jump there right away either. Do the process, step by step, so that you can get the memory to train and POST at the lowest stable voltage possible.

After you get the memory running at it's normal advertised speed, check your memory configuration by running Memtest.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-3810006/memory-xmp-configuration-troubleshooting-testing.html
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Okay, apologize for the bump I should have been aware. I will enable the XMP profile this morning and reply when I have successfully completed it. Thank you for the comprehensive help.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Okay, so I got the XMP set and ran the memtest with no failures. To rule it out I tried two sticks of other ram alone and had the same result. What should my next move be? Thanks.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Good deal. That's what I was hoping for, AND, now at least your memory should be running at the correct speed. If you could verify by checking CPU-Z or HWinfo, that would be a good thing.

Did you use the Display driver uninstaller to remove all old Nvidia AND if you've ever had an AMD card installed, the AMD drivers as well, and then install the latest Nvidia drivers?

I would defintely go to the product page for your motherboard, AFTER doing the DDU thing AGAIN, just to be sure, and download EVERY relevant driver for your motherboard. Intel chipset (Intel .inf), onboard sound audio drivers, network adapter drivers, storage controller drivers, whatever is relevant, and install them.

There are a good many drivers for your platform that have been released over the last week, and even the last few days, that it's definitely something you want to do.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Hey Dark, I did use DDS and get all of the items from Asrock’s website to make sure that was all current 3 days ago; But, I can check back again.

Something I haven’t mentioned that I had in mind. I’ve read a lot that it can also be a voltage issue. I bought cable extenders for my power supply. Today I was thinking I would grab another power supply at my place and hook everything up to bypass the extensions to make sure those aren’t causing the problem, or the PSU in general causing any problems.
Is it possible that the extensions could be limiting the voltage?

I also read that my card pulls quite a bit and Windows could possibly be limiting the voltage for power management.

What are your thoughts on these things?

Thanks!

 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Your current PSU is a very good model. I don't know about the extensions, but I'd certainly try removing them and just using the PSU as is with no extensions. I can't imagine they are necessary to reach where they need to reach so I'll assume they are sleeved extensions for aesthetics.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Yes, just for aesthetics. I didn’t think they would cause any issues, but just something else to rule out.

Is there a ballpark range of voltage my particular GPU should be getting when being used?

 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Run something demanding like Furmark or the Heaven benchmark. Post screenshots of the HWinfo system voltage sensors as they appear WHILE running that benchmark. Click below for more information.

HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 version 26.6 or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.

*Download HWinfo
 
Oct 27, 2018
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https://imgur.com/a/8mvAPi9

here's the HWinfo while running Heaven, also tested without extension cables, same result.

Hope this helps.


UPDATE: I have used Aorus Engine to put the GPU in Silent Mode instead of Gaming mode. When the game launched there seemed to be some screen tearing in the shadows and then the game performed fine and I have played multiple games without a freeze or crash.

SO? Gaming mode is making the card work too hard? Wanting too much voltage and forcing it to shut down?? I think this will help us get to the bottom of the problem much easier.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Update:

After finding this issue I did some searching and found that multiple people have had this problem with the Aorus Engine program. They recommended getting EVGA Precision XOC and running the card with a aggressive fan curve. I gave this a try and the GPU ran at the higher clock for much longer but eventually still crashed.

This time I grabbed the error report and screenshotted it to see if that would help the case.

Thanks. https://imgur.com/a/sy3ok5K
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Neither the GPU OR the CPU are under any kind of a load in those screenshots. GPU was at 11% load and CPU was at about 25% load. Something not right about that if you were running Heaven at the same time.

Try running Prime95 version 26.6 and choose the small FFT option. Take the screenshots WITH Prime95 running simultaneously.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Sorry about the first screens, here's while running
https://imgur.com/a/el6KLa0

Update: I've used Precision XOC and dropped Mhz down by -75mhz and raised the allowed power and the system runs stable. I played multiple games last night.

So, it is in working condition, but not sure why I am having to drop my numbers to get it stable.

Hopefully these pictures help, thanks again Dark.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
There is a problem with your cooling, but I don't think it's related to your actual problem although it could be.

What do you have connected to the CPU-FAN and CPU-OPT fan headers? One of them is showing 2000rpm and the other is showing about 800rpm. Do you have the radiator fans connected to one of them and the pump to the other one?

As for your actual problem I suspect that your issues are game specific, or related to immature platform support. I'd be willing to bet these issues will resolve themselves after the platform matures with better chipset drivers and more importantly, drivers that are more mature in supporting the chipset such as the GPU card, audio, LAN and storage controller drivers PLUS Windows itself.

I did notice that compared to your idle screenshots your PSU drops voltage significantly under a load. It does't drop below the discard spec, but it goes from above 12v down to about 11.8v. I'd keep an eye on that. If it drops further at any point, say, 11.6v, replace the PSU even though it's still about .2v above discard. It will mean that it is getting weaker and weaker.

Pretty unusual for a really good, brand new PSU to drop to 11.8v under any kind of load especially when it's easily way above the system demands at 850w.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Immature platform definitely seems possible.

As for the power supply. The idle pics was when I had a EVGA 550 PSU hooked up with no Led’s Hooked up. When I ran the HW this morning for the running info I had my Corsair 850 PSU running with all LED’s active again. Could that effect it? Or maybe the aesthetic extensions really are hurting voltage a bit?

My fan issue might be something to do with too many softwares trying to control them. I’ll have to take a look after work. Everyone knows the nightmares of CAM I’m thinking it’s upping certain fans. I think I can solve that issue.

Do you have any advice for fan speeds? I have 3 front fans with a front mounted radiator behind them and then the 2 radiator behind that for the “push pull setup” I’ve heard this doesn’t make much of a difference but it was more so to use all the fans I had and fill the space.
And then I have 2 top mounted fans and a rear exhaust
So a total of 8 fans.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Yes, CAM sucks. I've recently ripped my Grid+ v2 out due to being at my wits end with CAM and only have it installed still because otherwise my Hue+ resets the lighting every time the power is turned off. Working on finding some other software to run the Hue+.

Are the fans that are in front of the radiator connected to CPU fan headers or Chassis/System fan headers? That configuration really makes little sense as having three fans that will never be able to push through the radiator AND the two rear fans, is probably decreasing performance rather than increasing it. The only way push pull "works" is if the rear fans that are pulling are either going faster than the front fans or are higher CFM fans than the front ones so they don't present an increase in restriction of flow.

Two front mounted fans pushing through a radiator can do a better job by themselves, IF the rear fans are going slower than the front ones, or if there are fewer fans than in the front, or if they are going the exact same speed and are the exact same or lower CFM. Rear fans that outnumber or are the same number of fans as those in front, when going faster at identical CFM ratings, or if they are higher CFM rated fans, will actually then ASSIST the front fans, rather than presenting an increase in the restriction of airflow, and will also help to eliminate any dead spots in the airflow path.

What are the models of the fans in back and in front?

What are the models of your other case fans and the fans on top are they also exhaust or are they intake?
 
Oct 27, 2018
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All of the fans in the case are NZXT Aer120's, except for the two fans on top are Corsair SP120's that came with the case. The corsair fans on top are set to exhaust.

The radiator is mounted behind the middle and top front fan. With the other 2 Aer fans mounted directly behind. The very bottom front case fan is free to breath away from the push pull set up.

To address your explanation, I can set up my fans behind the radiator to have a high performance curve, and set my front case fans in front of the radiator to push into the rad at a slower speed

P.S if you figure out a alternative for CAM, let me know LOL.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Ok, but where are two fans that are in the front of the radiator connected to? Are they connected to the splitter that came with the cooler which should be connected to the CPU_FAN header, or are they connected to one or more of the system/chassis fan headers on the motherboard?

The reason is, if those are connected to the motherboard case fans headers, sys or cha, they are not going to directly respond to changes in CPU temp, instead reacting to the motherboard thermal diode, UNLESS your motherboard has the option in the bios to specify which thermal sensor that header is expected to react to. Some boards you can set the fan headers individually to respond to CPU temp, motherboard temp, GPU card temp, etc.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Ahh now I see. Yes, the fans in front of the Radiator are connected to the splitter from the cooler. I know there are two Fan ports at the top of MOBO I need to make sure the splitter is plugged into the CPU header port, I believe that it is.

I will give this a look tomorrow.

But, if the fans behind the radiator are suppose to perform higher to pull shouldn’t they be the ones connected to the header... and considering I have 8 fans in this build do you think it would be a better decision to just remove the pull fans and stick to the front fans leaving me with still having 6 fans 3 intakes and 3 exhaust.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
You want the rear fans moving more air than the front, but not by a large amount, otherwise they start starving for air too because the front fans will restrict them as well, at least to some degree.

If your CPU temps are good then it's probably not a big deal, it's just that little configuration errors like this CAN sometimes cause some loss of performance so getting front and back balanced or back just slightly faster/higher CFM, is usually better.

Another consideration is whether or not the rear fans or the front fans have higher static pressure ratings. You want the fan with the higher static pressure in front pushing, and that usually is the ones that come with a given cooler.

If you can give me the model numbers of the fans in back and the ones in front, I can check that out. If the rear fans have higher static pressure you might want to move them to the front OR get two more just like them. Again, just a thought.
 
Oct 27, 2018
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Since I sent that update that I uninstalled Aorus Engine and now use EVGA PRECISION XOC and reduced the GPU MHZ -50 I haven’t had a single crash and the very highest I’ve seen my GPU go is 69 degrees Celsius. I will grab fan model numbers now.
 

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