Question New PC not posting/peripherals not working

[PainRemains]

(Copy-pasted from Reddit as got no replies - it posts now but issue not fully solved and not sure how to proceed)

Alright, so... first, my old PC died recently. Don't really know what happened, it would boot but the motherboard lights wouldn't come on and the monitor would have no signal. Keyboard and mouse also would have no lights and not come on.

As that system was mostly old anyway I just built a new PC. Am re-using the GPU. All turns on fine and the lights for everything are on. But after plugging the monitor, mouse and keybard into the mobo's USB hub at the back, they don't come on (monitor still says no signal). This is even though I just used that hub for BIOS flashback to bios 3040, which worked fine. They also don't work in the case's front USB slot.

Orange CPU/DRAM light is on on the motherboard, not sure what this means. It's just on, not flashing. RAM slots are in DIMM A2 and B2 as per mobo manual.

- ROG Strix B650-A Gaming Wifi

- Gigabyte RTX 3080 Vision OC

- Corsair Titanium 32GB
- Ryzen 7600 + Thermalright Assassin Spirit

- Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVMe

- Crucial MX500 SSD

- Seagate 2TB HDD


EDIT: Mouse, keyboard and monitor all work on my girlfriend's PC just fine.

EDIT 2: I took one RAM stick out and it's now posting. Haven't put the other one back in yet.

EDIT 3: Didn't realise there was a checklist thread on here, apologies. Going through it now

 

[Aeacus]

Alright, so... first, my old PC died recently. Don't really know what happened, it would boot but the motherboard lights wouldn't come on and the monitor would have no signal. Keyboard and mouse also would have no lights and not come on.

Either dead: CPU, MoBo, RAM, GPU, PSU or all of them dead.

- ROG Strix B650-A Gaming Wifi

- Gigabyte RTX 3080 Vision OC

- Corsair Titanium 32GB
- Ryzen 7600 + Thermalright Assassin Spirit

- Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVMe

- Crucial MX500 SSD

- Seagate 2TB HDD

All that, but why exclude the most important component inside the PC? The one and only: PSU.

That being said: PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

EDIT 2: I took one RAM stick out and it's now posting. Haven't put the other one back in yet.

So, your issue is solved?

Btw, did you do breadboarding as well?

 

[PainRemains]

Oh yeah sorry, PSU is Corsair RM850. Bought new.

It posts now, but I'm not sure if that second RAM stick is going to play ball. Currently installing Windows and working through the issues with that. Had to reset FTPM in the BIOS and installing network drivers now. Not sure what breadbording is.

I guess I should see if the other RAM stick works now.

 

[PainRemains]

Put the second RAM stick in, wasn't working for a moment, then the CPU/DRAM light went red for a second and it booted. Thank Christ.

 

[Aeacus]

Not sure what breadbording is.

With breadboarding, you place MoBo on any cardboard box (e.g MoBo's own retail box does fine), then install: CPU, CPU cooler, RAM (GPU too, if your CPU doesn't have iGPU), connect monitor, KB, mouse and power cables and power on the build. Breadboarding is very convenient way to test if your hardware works. Since if it doesn't, it's easy to disassemble it and RMA any components needed, without you needing it to pull all of it out from the PC case.

Once you've verified that build works (POST and you can access BIOS), then you can install the MoBo to PC case and do all other cable management + PC case fans and unicorn puke too (if you're into the latter).

It should look similar to this:

Spoiler: Click here to view image

My Skylake build breadboarded, just after i bought it.

Corsair RM850.

Mediocre quality unit. Not the worst but not the best either. Good to power office PC without dedicated GPU. But can fall short of powering gaming rigs with dedicated GPU and high loads.

Put the second RAM stick in, wasn't working for a moment, then the CPU/DRAM light went red for a second and it booted. Thank Christ.

Did you buy the RAM as two individual DIMMs? Or did both DIMMs come in one, sealed package as a set?

It could be MoBo issue or RAM issue. Though, DDR5 should be more robust than DDR4 is.
Then again, you didn't buy the RAM by looking it up from MoBo memory QVL beforehand, right?

 

[Zerk2012]

Good to power office PC without dedicated GPU. But can fall short of powering gaming rigs with dedicated GPU and high loads.

That's not really true. Nothing wrong with the RM850, the 2019 model has the same 10 year warranty I think the newer one only has a 7 year warranty.

I bought the RM850 White version for the white cables.

To say it's just good for a office PC with no video card is just wrong.

 

[Zerk2012]

Put the second RAM stick in, wasn't working for a moment, then the CPU/DRAM light went red for a second and it booted. Thank Christ.

Glad everything is working!

 

[PainRemains]

Glad everything is working!

Is there a likely reason why it wouldn't post at first? I can't really find a straight answer. All is well seemingly, I'm just curious.

 

[Zerk2012]

Is there a likely reason why it wouldn't post at first? I can't really find a straight answer. All is well seemingly, I'm just curious.

I'm not on 24/7

Straight answer on what? Your PC is working as intended correct?

AM5 motherboards might take a while to work it has to go through memory training.
EDIT a lot of people think just put it together, turn it on and go to BIOS. Not the way it works on them.
More like build it turn it on a wait a while and see if it comes alive.

 

[COLGeek]

I'm not on 24/7

Straight answer on what? Your PC is working as intended correct?

AM5 motherboards might take a while to work it has to go through memory training.
EDIT a lot of people think just put it together, turn it on and go to BIOS. Not the way it works on them.

This is correct. The system can take a while to boot the first time, a minute or so, in order for it to train it self about its hardware configuration.

 

[Zerk2012]

Is there a likely reason why it wouldn't post at first? I can't really find a straight answer. All is well seemingly, I'm just curious.

A couple things I would do if you need piece of mind.
1. Enable EXPO in BIOS to get the memory running the correct speed. (this should be done regardless)
2. Run Memtest 64
3. Download OCCT and run the CPU stress test and monitor the temp.
4. Run the GPU stress test and monitor temps (OCCT still)
5. Run the power supply test (OCCT still)
You can Google anything you don't understand like the Memtest 64 the OCCT if fairly straight forward.
If all of those pass then just enjoy your new PC.

EDIT some people would recommend different test instead of OCCT but it's decent to test stability and temps.

 

[PainRemains]

Thanks, I will do all of these. Had enabled EXPO already.

Although... I now have a complete different issue.

I enabled Memory Context Restore in BIOS as saw a few posts saying it made their system post way faster and all was lovely and smelled of roses. Boy I wish I researched a bit more first.

Enabled MCR and put Power Down on auto. Immediate BSOD. Restart. Immediate BSOD.

Now when I try to disable them, after clicking OK the whole thing just freezes and I have to hard restart...

Using most recent BIOS, 3040. Should I reset CMOS?

EDIT: Just restoring default BIOS settings seems to have fixed it. Yeah never touching MCR again.

 

[John Chesterfield]

That's not really true. Nothing wrong with the RM850, the 2019 model has the same 10 year warranty I think the newer one only has a 7 year warranty.

I bought the RM850 White version for the white cables.

To say it's just good for a office PC with no video card is just wrong.

+1

 

[Aeacus]

That's not really true. Nothing wrong with the RM850, the 2019 model has the same 10 year warranty I think the newer one only has a 7 year warranty.

I bought the RM850 White version for the white cables.

To say it's just good for a office PC with no video card is just wrong.

Corsair has made 4 iterations of RM-series;
1. RM-series 2012 [CP-9020055], 5 year warranty. RM850 review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-rm850/
2. RM-series 2019 [CP-9020194], 10 year warranty. RM850 review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm850-power-supply,6127.html
3. RM-series 2021 [CP-9020232/CP-9020234], 10 year warranty. No reviews. Specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...ly-modular-atx-psu-cp-9020232-na#tab-overview
4. RM650 2023 [CP-9020280], 7 year warranty. No reviews. Specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...r-atx-power-supply-cp-9020280-na#tab-overview

Since there are no reviews of 2023 and 2021 models, i'll look at 2019 model.
In Aris'es review, +12V rail regulation is quite loose, over 1%. And +3.3V rail failed transient response tests. Somehow, PSU is most efficient in 30% load, while most PSUs are most efficient 50%-80% load. As Aris himself said, RM 2019 costs the same as better quality RMx series, while having lesser quality components.

Since it is mostly known that RMx is good quality PSU, a PSU that costs the same, but has inferior components and poorer results in review (even failing some tests), can not be considered equally good. Thus; RMx - good quality, RM - mediocre quality. And based on the warranty length of 2023 version, RM-series reliability has lowered, most likely due to even more inferior components that doesn't last as long.

 

[Zerk2012]

Corsair has made 4 iterations of RM-series;
1. RM-series 2012 [CP-9020055], 5 year warranty. RM850 review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-rm850/
2. RM-series 2019 [CP-9020194], 10 year warranty. RM850 review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm850-power-supply,6127.html
3. RM-series 2021 [CP-9020232/CP-9020234], 10 year warranty. No reviews. Specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...ly-modular-atx-psu-cp-9020232-na#tab-overview
4. RM650 2023 [CP-9020280], 7 year warranty. No reviews. Specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...r-atx-power-supply-cp-9020280-na#tab-overview

Since there are no reviews of 2023 and 2021 models, i'll look at 2019 model.
In Aris'es review, +12V rail regulation is quite loose, over 1%. And +3.3V rail failed transient response tests. Somehow, PSU is most efficient in 30% load, while most PSUs are most efficient 50%-80% load. As Aris himself said, RM 2019 costs the same as better quality RMx series, while having lesser quality components.

Since it is mostly known that RMx is good quality PSU, a PSU that costs the same, but has inferior components and poorer results in review (even failing some tests), can not be considered equally good. Thus; RMx - good quality, RM - mediocre quality. And based on the warranty length of 2023 version, RM-series reliability has lowered, most likely due to even more inferior components that doesn't last as long.

And all of them are good enough to run a modern gaming PC.
A few people on this site think if you don't buy the best power supply made then your asking for problems that's just not true.

It's a big difference in buying a over rated pile of crap, and a decent PSU that is perfectly acceptable quality.
I guess all of these people have a ticking time bomb all 9 pages of them. I see lots of 3080's 4090's and 7900xtx's being used.
https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/FPYmP6

I guess this PSU was not good enough either.
https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650RM-Semi-Modular-CrossFire-Capacitor/dp/B00918N4A0

I been using it in my PC for 10 years went from a 4790K now in it's 2nd PC 10600K paired with a 2080 and never had a single problem. I have the RM 850 (2019) in the box still never installed it yet.

I see no reason to even continue this since your not going to change my mind or me yours.

 

[Aeacus]

A few people on this site think if you don't buy the best power supply made then your asking for problems that's just not true.

Different persons have different standards (some have higher standards while others have lower standards) and it's up to every person to decide how good of a build quality components are safe to use in their PC. But keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything.

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i won't put a mediocre quality unit into my PC that fails to meet ATX PSU standards set in place for all OEMs to follow, so that the PSUs are safe to use and doesn't damage other components. In fact, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs.
Some may call me nuts that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) and my latest PSU purchase for Haswell build costed €205.50 (Seasonic SSR-650TR), while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €80.50 (Seasonic GX-550). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my two main PCs are powered by the best offered by Seasonic. Only for my 3rd PC, old AMD build, i slightly reduced my PSU quality standard and bought a PSU that costed €101.50 (Seasonic PX-550). Still, all 3 of my PSUs are good/great quality units (Tier A quality within PSU tier list).

I guess all of these people have a ticking time bomb all 9 pages of them. I see lots of 3080's 4090's and 7900xtx's being used.
https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/FPYmP6

It comes down to the personal standard.
E.g this 700W Thermaltake unit is used even more people, 12 pages worth. And there, i also see 3060/ 3070/ 4060/ 4070/ 7800XT GPUs used,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/b8Jkcf

Or this 500W Thermaltake unit. 21 pages worth of users,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/Wbhj4D

and never had a single problem

It is easy to talk from personal experience, especially when you haven't had nothing bad happen. But just because Lady Luck smiles to you, doesn't mean it is so in wider scope. E.g you could ask from any of the 500W/700W Thermaltake unit users and they would tell you same thing: "nothing bad happened", thus validating why they use those Thermaltake units and most likely continue to buy and use it + spread the word about this specific model, as of why it is a good buy.

In similar sense; person who drives drunk daily and never had an accident happen, can justify why to drive drunk. But that doesn't mean that driving drunk is something wise to do, just because one person says that they have been fine for all that time driving drunk.

I guess this PSU was not good enough either.
https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650RM-Semi-Modular-CrossFire-Capacitor/dp/B00918N4A0

Seasonic G-series. Back in the day when it launched (2012), it was actually 2nd best unit from Seasonic. Best being the X-series. S12II and M12II EVO units were below G-series, but still good.

And back then, most what you could get PSU warranty wise, was 7 years (e.g X-series). 5 years was common back then (e.g G-series had 5 years warranty), while 3 years warranty was also acceptable (e.g S12II/M12II EVO-series).
Nowadays, most what you could get PSU warranty wise, is 12 years (e.g Seasonic Vertex/PRIME). While 10 year warranty is the norm. 7 year warranty PSUs also can do, but i'd use those only in office builds (e.g Seasonic Core/Focus GM or Corsair RMe/RM650 2023).

Though, there are lemons, even among the best. I've seen Seasonic PRIME or Corsair AXi units also acting up, where PSU RMA is the fix. Hence the reason brand new hardware comes with a warranty.
If there is 0 chance of manufacturing error, there wouldn't be any warranty at all, for all products.

In my days, i've had to RMA some of the hardware components. E.g my 1st Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB lasted me for 28 days only, before drive died completely. Did RMA and month later when replacement arrived, it has now worked for several years.
Or when i got my Corsair 750D AF full-tower ATX case, it's front fascia plastic holding clips were broken and power button didn't work either. So, another RMA and got replacement parts.
Am i going around saying to others not to buy Samsung drives or Corsair PC cases since i've had a bad experience with those? No, i'm not. I still value those highly. Also, i'm well aware for the reason why products come with a warranty.

I see no reason to even continue this since your not going to change my mind or me yours.

Well, yeah, i'm not going to lower my standards just because you're happy with your lower standards. And same is vice-versa, i let you (or anyone in that matter) to decide what level of component standard they think is safe to use.

But i've said it before and i'll say it again: since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
And due to that critical importance, i have a high standard when it comes to PSUs (or power delivery in general, including UPS).