[SOLVED] New PC won’t post but fans are spinning

[hirok0_o]

I have finished my first PC build and when I went to turn it on nothing would come up and the fans would spin, I had a gigabyte b450m aorus motherboard and got a red cpu light. I looked into this and got a new motherboard (ASRock b450m hdv) and still get the same problems. Any help please I do not know what to do.
Hardware:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600
GPU: Zotac GTX 1660 (an exdisplay)
RAM: 1 8GB Stick Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2666mhz (an older ram stick not the ones with rgb which I can’t find an image of the same on the internet)
MB:ASRock b450m hdv
PSU:Thermal Take 550W
HDD:1tb Seagate Barracuda (an older one from 2013)

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

what errors are you getting with the new board; beeps, lights, etc?

check motherboard compatibility listings for this specific CPU. some models need BIOS updates to officially support certain CPUs even if they are the same platform/chipset.

check power cables are firmly seated; 8pin CPU cable, 24pin motherboard cable, PCIe 6/8pin cables to GPU.

 

[hirok0_o]

Hello,
when I power on the PC I don’t get any beeps or lights, unlike my old one which gave a red cpu light, and for the b450m chipsets it says that they are ready for the ryzen 2000 series. And pretty sure that all the cables are seated properly. Could this be a PSU issue? I thought it was a MB issue but I thinks it’s unlikely to get 2 bad motherboards in a row. Thank you for helping me through this.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

Could this be a PSU issue?

it's definitely a possibility. which Thermaltake model is it?

also a possibility that the GPU is bad, that the system is functioning but you're not seeing it because the display is getting no signal.

GPU: Zotac GTX 1660 (an exdisplay)

what do you mean by "exdisplay"?

easiest way to troubleshoot both would be to switch each out with known working components. any friends, family, etc with systems you could borrow from or a secondary system of your own you could swap from for a quick troubleshoot?
if yes; try different RAM, GPU, & PSU.

before any of that try doing a CMOS hard reset on the motherboard;
power down, switch PSU to off, remove power cable.
remove CMOS battery and wait for ~5mins. then hold down system power button for ~30secs.
replace battery, power back up, and hope for the best.

 

[hirok0_o]

The PSU is a litepower 550W. The exdisplay means it used to be on display or was refurbished. Also I have no spare parts to swap out and test and can’t get my friends parts as we are on lockdown. I will try out the hard reset in the afternoon, when I do this do I need to take all of the components out?

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

I will try out the hard reset in the afternoon, when I do this do I need to take all of the components out?

just leave everything installed.

regarding the PSU;
i have seen some very bad reviews about the quality of the Litepower series. they are designed for low-power HTPC or simple web browser type builds. this could very well be the cause but it's still hard to diagnose.
i would look into getting a better/more reliable PSU even if it isn't the actual culprit at the moment. you wouldn't want it causing later damage to components even if it is working fine now.

also regarding the GPU;
has it worked for you in a previous build or was this a fresh purchase with this non-functioning system? there's a good chance if it was refurbished that it just failed again before you got to experience it actually working.

 

[hirok0_o]

The GPU and the rest of the build was all fresh purchases so I do not know if the GPU works and I will try with the PSU however the website refunds are only allowed up to 30 days and any later it must have a fault with it, the website I got it off is Ebuyer. And for the GPU I have 60 more days to re it. Thank you for the advice so far, I really appreciate you doing this.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

...I will try with the PSU however the website refunds are only allowed up to 30 days...

the "lock down" has made some things difficult but if you can find an open shop they will usually test power supplies for free for you. i imagine it's usually free because they hope they can convince you to buy a new one directly from them if it's faulty.

if it's determined to be faulty, and too late for return, hopefully Thermaltake would give you an option through RMA to exchange this model towards a better more reliable one.

there's a few articles/threads stickied here that may help you find a better model:

Power Supplies

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[hirok0_o]

Ok once all of the covid-19 issues are dealt I will try and get the PSU tested, I dont think any repair shops are open as they don’t count as essential shops by the government. I will the hard reset a bit later and see the results. And I will then test the PSU, do you know how I can do this. I have heard about a paper clip test but not informed about it. Also when the PC is on I got to switch it off with the normal power button holding it for a few seconds but it doesn’t switch off and I have to press the off button on the PSU, not sure if this is something importan?

On my old motherboard when I switched it on there was a red CPU light, could I possibly have a CPU issue?
Sorry for all of the questions.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

On my old motherboard when I switched it on there was a red CPU light, could I possibly have a CPU issue?

it usually means a general CPU problem;
like incompatible CPU, BIOS updates needed, insufficient power, temperature, or any load of other possibilities. you would have to see if your motherboard manual or support webpage offers any particular meaning to certain color lights, patterns, or warning beeps/alarms.

Also when the PC is on I got to switch it off with the normal power button holding it for a few seconds but it doesn’t switch off and I have to press the off button on the PSU, not sure if this is something importan?

this could be a faulty case power switch or one that just isn't designed to work as most do. you could try reseating the front panel power switch connection to the motherboard and also ensure the +/- are aligned correctly.
some cases i've had to hold it in for 5+ seconds to power totally off.

And I will then test the PSU, do you know how I can do this. I have heard about a paper clip test but not informed about it.

you'd have to search online(google, etc), or maybe start a new thread here, for the best way to accomplish this for your specific PSU.

 

[hirok0_o]

Ok thanks I will probably get back to you tomorrow morning and tell you how things went and hopefully we will be able to diagnose the problem fully fingers crossed. Thank you again for helping me with this especially at a time like this.

 

[hirok0_o]

Hello, I am sorry but I have not reset the CMOS because I am unsure as what to do. I know you said I have to remove the battery but there is a header on my MB that says CLR CMOS. I checked the manual and it says to use a jumper to reset it but I don’t have one and it doesn’t say to remove the battery. Sorry but I am a bit unsure and worried I will do something wrong

Edit: I have seen video but I’m still not fully sure what to do. Sorry that Im making this a bit harder.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

using the provided jumper may accomplish the same thing but it also may just reset BIOS settings to their defaults. this jumper would be with your motherboard accessories. a very small rectangular plastic piece.

you want a full hard reset to be sure though.
for the CMOS hard reset follow my directions.

...power down, switch PSU to off, remove power cable.
remove CMOS battery and wait for ~5mins. then hold down system power button for ~30secs.
replace battery, power back up...

not trying to be rude, but if you can't follow these simple directions you really shouldn't be working on this system.

 

[hirok0_o]

Ok I will do this sorry I was just a bit unsure.

 

[hirok0_o]

Hello, I had done the hard reset last night and I am still getting the same problems.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

Hello, I had done the hard reset last night and I am still getting the same problems.

so that rules out basic BIOS settings as the cause of the issue.

now you only need to test the PSU, CPU, RAM, GPU, HD...
and still verify this specific CPU, not only it's series but this specific model, for motherboard compatibility.

 

[hirok0_o]

The CPU model number is YD2600BBAFBOX

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

your motherboard manufacturer's product page will have updated lists of which models are compatible, usually based on BIOS version.
try checking it's "support" section/tab/page or something similar.

 

[hirok0_o]

On the ASRock website for my CPU it supports all BIOS versions

 

[hirok0_o]

What trouble shooting shall I do next?

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

you would need to test the other components one at a time and try to determine which is failing.

you don't have onboard graphics so to test the GPU you would have to try another known function GPU in the same PCIe slot.
or try yours in another known functioning system and see if it works.

same with PSU, CPU, and RAM.

the easiest thing to do right now may be to just try a different display or try the current one with a different system.
there's always a chance that the monitor is just not functioning correctly.

 

[hirok0_o]

Ok I will try another display, my current one works with other systems like my PlayStation. But as of testing parts I don’t have anything to test it it with unfortunately.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

...my current one works with other systems like my PlayStation...

one more possible culprit crossed off the list

 

[hirok0_o]

Also my RAM needed lots of force, more than I would have expected and the clip isnt in line with the other closes one and the gold connectors look a bit worn. Could this be a problem?

Edit: I have connected it to another display, a tv, and still get the same issues.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

Also my RAM needed lots of force, more than I would have expected and the clip isnt in line with the other closes one and the gold connectors look a bit worn. Could this be a problem?

i've run into this issue with needed extra force many times with different boards. usually you have to find the correct angles to start with one corner of the stick at a time and then press firmly. the latch can sometimes also need the correct force from certain angles even though they should pop closed when the RAM is inserted.

can also mean a problem with the DIMM slot or with the RAM module's connectors though. and actually noticing the connectors looking a bit off would worry me.
try different DIMM slots and see if the same stick enters a little easier.