[SOLVED] New PC won't boot

Jun 22, 2020
4
0
10
Build:
Ryzen 5 3600
ASRock B550 Steel Legend
Gigabyte 2070 Super
Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB
Corsair RM750

I built my 2nd ever gaming PC today and was going well until I tried to post. When I flick the switch on the PSU to on the fans light up and spin for a millisecond then turn off immediately and then when I try to turn it on from the switch or manually with a screwdriver I get nothing.

My first thought was a faulty PSU however I tested it with a paperclip and it ran fine for about 10 seconds then shut off which I read was normal so everything should be fine there. I also made sure all my cables were properly seated and they were however I noticed when I plug in the 24 pin connector I didn't hear a clicking noise which I thought you usually get, could be nothing just thought it was worth noting. I took out my GPU, reset CMO's, pretty much everything from any forums I could find and still nothing.

One thing I did notice is that when I wiggle the 24 pin connector sometimes the fans and lights will spin and light up again so I feel like it might be a motherboard or cable issue but am unsure of anyways to test that. I was just wondering if anyone has had any similar issues or any advice on how to fix it and anything is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Solution
For boards that have 4+8, only one of them is actually required with 8-pin being preffered. Having both is only something for extreme OCing or just to have somewhere to plug in the 4-pin into for what few PSUs actually have both.

The easiest household way of determining if a PSU might be the problem is to swap it out with a different known-good decent quality unit. The proper way of testing a PSU is to hook up 12V, 5V, 3.3V and 5VSB to an oscilloscope to check if they all stay within tolerances for nominal DC level + noise/ripples.

The next most common reason for PCs not turning on or only doing so for a split second is a short somewhere tripping the PSU's protections such as a misplaced motherboard tray standoff, an IO shield ground...
You only mentioned the 24-pins connector, what about the 4/8-pins CPU 12V one? PC won't work without it.

The paper clip test only shows that the PSU isn't completely brain-dead, it does not prove that it is actually working properly.

My motherboard has an 8 pin and a 4 pin CPU connector and the 8 pin was plugged in correctly and all the way. I read that you really only need to add the other 4 pin if you're overclocking and idk if thats true but if not I would love to know that because my PSU only had cables for 8 pins I believe so I don't have anything that would fit the 4.

Is there another test I can do to see if the PSU is fully working not just half working?
 
For boards that have 4+8, only one of them is actually required with 8-pin being preffered. Having both is only something for extreme OCing or just to have somewhere to plug in the 4-pin into for what few PSUs actually have both.

The easiest household way of determining if a PSU might be the problem is to swap it out with a different known-good decent quality unit. The proper way of testing a PSU is to hook up 12V, 5V, 3.3V and 5VSB to an oscilloscope to check if they all stay within tolerances for nominal DC level + noise/ripples.

The next most common reason for PCs not turning on or only doing so for a split second is a short somewhere tripping the PSU's protections such as a misplaced motherboard tray standoff, an IO shield ground tab stuck inside a connector, a cable pinched by the case, etc.
 
Solution

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