Question New prebuilt gaming PC - worked for 6 hours, now won't power on at all

[kefka95]

I recently purchased an ABS Gladiator gaming PC from Newegg:

https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali455/p/N82E16883360039

Here are the copy/pasted specs:

• Intel Core i7 10700F 2.90GHz (4.80GHz Turbo Boost), 8-Core 16-Thread
• ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 3070 8GB
• ASUS TUF Gaming B460M-Plus, WiFi 6
• DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GTE V2
• G.Skill Ripjaw V 16GB DDR4 3200MHz
• 1TB Intel 665P M.2 NVMe SSD
• ASUS TUF Gaming GT301 Mid-Tower
• 750W 80 Plus Gold
• Windows 10 Home 64-bit

I plugged it in, and it worked great! I played some AC: Valhalla and Cyberpunk, amazing performance. However, at some point, after about 6 hours, the system appeared to enter sleep mode (power button was flashing). I pressed the power button to wake it up, and...nothing. I powered off the PC and tried to turn it back on, and nothing happened. When I press the power button, nothing responds at all, it doesn't even try to start.

The motherboard LED is lit, so I know it's getting power. When I press the power button, I hear a very faint "click" from the PSU, so I know the power button is communicating with the PSU at least. If I hold down the power button for 5 seconds, I hear another very faint "click". I've double-checked all of the connections that I can reach, and everything appears to be firmly connected.

Only thing I can think of is to try hooking up the PSU from my old PC to see if it's a PSU issue, but that's a pretty big headache, especially since I want to keep my old PC functional.

Any other thoughts on what else I can try? Otherwise this entire thing may just have to be returned.

 

[doolittle]

might be best to hit up their customer support and see what they recommend before you start swapping out parts, just in case it voids warranty:

Please contact us at (800)685-3471 Monday - Friday between 8:00AM to 5:30PM PST or email your information to Customercare@Abs.com so we can begin to fix the issue for you.

if you get the green light for swaps then yes psu a good idea

personally I would first disconnect all mobo power, swap out the GPU (have an old HD5450 laying around right?) just to see if you can get to the BIOS then go from there - if nothing then PSU would be my next step

good info here on what else to check:

How To - "No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Kjellebel]

I recently purchased an ABS Gladiator gaming PC from Newegg:

https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali455/p/N82E16883360039

Here are the copy/pasted specs:

• Intel Core i7 10700F 2.90GHz (4.80GHz Turbo Boost), 8-Core 16-Thread
• ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 3070 8GB
• ASUS TUF Gaming B460M-Plus, WiFi 6
• DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GTE V2
• G.Skill Ripjaw V 16GB DDR4 3200MHz
• 1TB Intel 665P M.2 NVMe SSD
• ASUS TUF Gaming GT301 Mid-Tower
• 750W 80 Plus Gold
• Windows 10 Home 64-bit

I plugged it in, and it worked great! I played some AC: Valhalla and Cyberpunk, amazing performance. However, at some point, after about 6 hours, the system appeared to enter sleep mode (power button was flashing). I pressed the power button to wake it up, and...nothing. I powered off the PC and tried to turn it back on, and nothing happened. When I press the power button, nothing responds at all, it doesn't even try to start.

The motherboard LED is lit, so I know it's getting power. When I press the power button, I hear a very faint "click" from the PSU, so I know the power button is communicating with the PSU at least. If I hold down the power button for 5 seconds, I hear another very faint "click". I've double-checked all of the connections that I can reach, and everything appears to be firmly connected.

Only thing I can think of is to try hooking up the PSU from my old PC to see if it's a PSU issue, but that's a pretty big headache, especially since I want to keep my old PC functional.

Any other thoughts on what else I can try? Otherwise this entire thing may just have to be returned.

You do not have enough power for this. ASUS DUAL???? You shoul be happy if you could power this card alone.

 

[Kjellebel]

I recently purchased an ABS Gladiator gaming PC from Newegg:

https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali455/p/N82E16883360039

Here are the copy/pasted specs:

• Intel Core i7 10700F 2.90GHz (4.80GHz Turbo Boost), 8-Core 16-Thread
• ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 3070 8GB
• ASUS TUF Gaming B460M-Plus, WiFi 6
• DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GTE V2
• G.Skill Ripjaw V 16GB DDR4 3200MHz
• 1TB Intel 665P M.2 NVMe SSD
• ASUS TUF Gaming GT301 Mid-Tower
• 750W 80 Plus Gold
• Windows 10 Home 64-bit

I plugged it in, and it worked great! I played some AC: Valhalla and Cyberpunk, amazing performance. However, at some point, after about 6 hours, the system appeared to enter sleep mode (power button was flashing). I pressed the power button to wake it up, and...nothing. I powered off the PC and tried to turn it back on, and nothing happened. When I press the power button, nothing responds at all, it doesn't even try to start.

The motherboard LED is lit, so I know it's getting power. When I press the power button, I hear a very faint "click" from the PSU, so I know the power button is communicating with the PSU at least. If I hold down the power button for 5 seconds, I hear another very faint "click". I've double-checked all of the connections that I can reach, and everything appears to be firmly connected.

Only thing I can think of is to try hooking up the PSU from my old PC to see if it's a PSU issue, but that's a pretty big headache, especially since I want to keep my old PC functional.

Any other thoughts on what else I can try? Otherwise this entire thing may just have to be returned.

It's CPU and RAM, I assume.

Apologies...should mayyyybe juuust work until you start to raise the clocks

 

[King_V]

You do not have enough power for this. ASUS DUAL???? You shoul be happy if you could power this card alone.

The RTX 3070 recommends 650W according to Nvidia, and they tend to be conservative. OP has a 750W PSU.

Are you assuming that the "dual" part means OP is running two RTX 3070 cards? Nvidia only supports SLI on the 3090. The "dual" refers to the dual fan setup on the Asus card.

 

[doolittle]

Are you assuming that the "dual" part means OP is running two RTX 3070 cards? Nvidia only supports SLI on the 3090. The "dual" refers to the dual fan setup on the Asus card.

A rig with dual 3070s for $1700 would be such a killer deal!!

Good question for OP, curious what model PSU they put in there, ideally since it's newegg imagine if they put in a capstone would be nice - or did they pull an amazon and go with a lower quality model

 

[kefka95]

might be best to hit up their customer support and see what they recommend before you start swapping out parts, just in case it voids warranty:



if you get the green light for swaps then yes psu a good idea

personally I would first disconnect all mobo power, swap out the GPU (have an old HD5450 laying around right?) just to see if you can get to the BIOS then go from there - if nothing then PSU would be my next step

good info here on what else to check:

How To - "No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

Thanks, those are good thoughts. I'm actually struggling to even remove the GPU, which I need to do in order to reach the CMOS battery and NVME slots. The little PCI release lever is almost completely blocked off by the massive CPU cooler. I guess I could try pressing in the lever with a long screwdriver, but I'm afraid the screwdriver will slip and end up slamming into the motherboard in a nasty way. I could try removing the CPU cooler, but I honestly have NO idea how to remove that thing, and I'm kind of scared to even mess with it (lol!).

I should mention that the only other thing I changed on the PC was to set the memory profile in the BIOS from Auto to XMP, which was recommended by basically everybody. The PC continued to work just fine for several hours after that, so I don't think that caused the issue.

I'll try getting in touch with ABS and see what they recommend.

 

[kefka95]

A rig with dual 3070s for $1700 would be such a killer deal!!

Good question for OP, curious what model PSU they put in there, ideally since it's newegg imagine if they put in a capstone would be nice - or did they pull an amazon and go with a lower quality model

Looks like the PSU is a Gigabyte 750GM. Lots of bad reviews for this one on Newegg, including reviews that mentioned the "click" sound. Not a good sign...

 

[doolittle]

...I'm actually struggling to even remove the GPU, which I need to do in order to reach the CMOS battery and NVME slots. The little PCI release lever is almost completely blocked off by the massive CPU cooler. I guess I could try pressing in the lever with a long screwdriver, but I'm afraid the screwdriver will slip and end up slamming into the motherboard in a nasty way. I could try removing the CPU cooler, but I honestly have NO idea how to remove that thing, and I'm kind of scared to even mess with it (lol!).

I used one of the rear PCI slot covers bent at a 90 degree angle, and wrapped with electrical tape in a sad effort to minimize damage - you have to get it just at the right spot, using your phone camera may help if you can fit it in there to see exactly where it is, you can also guesstimate where the lever would be based on the mobo pix on newegg (for some reason they are the best ones) and best do from the cpu side so you don't have to go under the massive heatsink and as you are pulling up slightly on the GPU itself (taking the weight off the lever) then the lever should be easy to press as you are pulling the gpu out of the lever - if that makes sense...

in other words don't put too much pressure on the lever and let the gpu weight do all the work on it as you are pulling on it slightly to take the weight off the lever, and you can almost feel the lever mechanism as you are pulling the gpu out and the lever will be near weightless (don't force it as that will damage the board if it slips)

 

[g-unit1111]

I used one of the rear PCI slot covers bent at a 90 degree angle, and wrapped with electrical tape in a sad effort to minimize damage - you have to get it just at the right spot, using your phone camera may help if you can fit it in there to see exactly where it is, you can also guesstimate where the lever would be based on the mobo pix on newegg (for some reason they are the best ones) and best do from the cpu side so you don't have to go under the massive heatsink and as you are pulling up slightly on the GPU itself (taking the weight off the lever) then the lever should be easy to press as you are pulling the gpu out of the lever - if that makes sense...

in other words don't put too much pressure on the lever and let the gpu weight do all the work on it as you are pulling on it slightly to take the weight off the lever, and you can almost feel the lever mechanism as you are pulling the gpu out and the lever will be near weightless (don't force it as that will damage the board if it slips)

Looking at a picture of that build, I really can't see any instance where you would have to physically remove hardware in order to access critical components like the CMOS battery, unless it's under a whole bunch of motherboard heat sink plating. Usually the CMOS battery is located between the second and third PCI-E slots or there's something like a hard CMOS reset on the motherboard I/O panel.

But in any case, you shouldn't have to do any of that. I would say that there's a 99% chance that it's that junk power supply that is being the culprit. I usually don't buy or recommend pre-built systems for that reason. You will almost always have to replace the PSU with something much better within the first year of owning it.

 

[kefka95]

So I called ABS, and they had me run some tests to confirm that the PSU was in fact dead. Fortunately ABS support was very responsive and helpful, and they're sending me a new PSU right away. The new one is an EVGA SuperNOVA. Not sure if that's better than the Gigabyte, but it can't be worse!

 

[popatim]

good deal!