[SOLVED] New PSU Installation

Sep 28, 2020
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I installed a new psu and when I went to turn on my computer, it kept restarting. Is this normal? The computer did eventually turn on after I unplugged and replugged everything a few times because I thought something was wrong.

Also, do I need to wait before turning on my computer after installing a new psu (then pressing the on switch)?

The motherboard cable also seems very tense, should I order new cables? I feel like it might give out sooner or later.

The psu is a Corsair HX1200, it has a 0 rpm mode, is this beneficial or bad? I feel like if the fan was moving all the time at low rpm that is better, but I'm not even sure how to get it to turn on.
The psu is a little warm, but I'd like it to be colder for the most part.
 
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Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
4.75v is the minimum according to the ATX spec. I wouldn't want to see anything below 4.8 for the 5v. ATX spec also says the 12v is good down to 11.4v, but we don't agree, and neither does another reference from the ATX spec which says it needs to be within 5% of the nominal value, and we tend to fail and discard at 11.7v. I have seen plenty of systems have full accountable functional problems with less than 11.7v or less than 4.8v.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
What are your full hardware specifications?

Was this system fully configured and running prior to swapping out the PSU?

Wait? No. The only thing you have to "wait" for is to make sure everything is connected correctly.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Maximus X Code
I7-8700k
2080
3200 mHz ram CAS latency is 14 (32gb)

What do you mean by fully configured? It was running on a defective psu.
The new psu is running now after I replugged everything multiple times, I was just wondering if it was normal for it to restart multiple times on a new psu.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
It MIGHT be normal. It really depends on how your BIOS settings are configured. If the MRC fast boot (Memory controller fast boot) is disabled in the Extreme tweaker section of the BIOS (Advanced view) then it may very well be running through it's three memory training runs. If the MRC fast boot is enabled, then it should simply fast boot using the known good memory timings from the XMP profile if that is set. If it's not set, you should set it. And then once you've set the XMP or manually configured the memory configuration and have had a successful POST, you should set the MRC fast boot to enabled, to avoid re-training the memory every time the system restarts or cold boots.

There could certainly be other reasons for it, but that would be the most common. Three restarts for memory training is pretty common after a power loss when MRC fast boot is not enabled.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Oh okay, so the 3 restarts were the training runs? I've always had fast boot on with the defective psu. On the new psu I remember it restarting twice, and that's when I decided to replug everything. After it restarted again, I replugged it again. After that, everything seemed normal.
Could I have potentially messed it up by switching the psu power off at the end of the restart and replugging everything?
Also, should the new psu be warm while it is operating? When my defective psu started rebooting my pc, I decided to put it outside the case and it was always cold to the touch while playing any games that don't take too many resources. The new psu has 0 rpm mode while the defective psu always had its fan on, but it was silent if that really makes a difference.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
I doubt it. I'd just run through the BIOS and make sure all the settings still look correct and that XMP is enabled, boot order is right, fan profiles are where you left them, etc. If so, and so long as it is booting correctly now, then it was probably just due to the training after the loss of power.

You have an extremely high quality 1200w unit in use with a graphics card that only requires a good 550w power supply. The chances are good that your PSU fan is NEVER going to come on, or if it does, that it will never come on beyond low speed. I'm not sure why you went with a 1200w power supply for a system that only requires about half that, if that, unless you were planning to add a second RTX 2080, but no, you will probably not ever notice the new PSU being "warm" in any meaningful way with your current configuration.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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I was asking about the temps because I'm feeling the new psu at the moment while playing and it feels warm, I'd prefer the fan to be on, but at the moment I can't find out how. I guess the fan makes quite a difference because I just checked on my brother's psu (different and has fan on all the time but still quiet), it is quite cool to the touch, and not defective.

I guess my main worry is if the warmth will wear it down faster compared to the psu fan on.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
It won't. That unit is a tank, tested without flinching at temperatures up to 46°C, which it will never reach with the little load you are putting on it. Technically it is probably even grossly overkill for your system. There is no way to disable the zero RPM configuration on that, unlike on the "i" models that are software configurable, from what I can see.

If it gets warm enough to need the fan to come on, it will, period. If it doesn't, then it doesn't NEED to. You CAN test to make sure the fan actually works, if you really feel the need, by using a paper clip.

 
Sep 28, 2020
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That answers most of my worries.

I guess the last thing is should I be worried about a tense cable? The motherboard cable that came with it, compared my my psu I'm gonna RMA, how it splits into two to connect to the psu. One of them is shorter than the other and it seems like the wires on the other end is probably stretching due to the glue and heatshrink on the capacitor. I feel like it might give out later.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Which cable are you talking about? Post an image of it so I can see.

 
Sep 28, 2020
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I can't seem to insert the image using the link you sent me. So I'll paste the link below.

This is the imgur pic: View: https://imgur.com/45A4SEo

The pic isn't mine by the way, but it looks exactly the same as mine.

The red circle, you can see how the two ends are not leveled. So when I plug them into the psu, the one pointed with a green arrow gets quite tense since the glue + heatshrink is really holding the wires.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
That split connector is common. It should plug in side by side to the power supply. There shouldn't BE any "tense", or what I assume you mean is "tension", on that cable. They don't plug into different places, they plug into the same place, side by side. And no, glue and heatshrink are not holding the wires. The wires have metal clips that keep them held inside the connector. You could not pull one out without completely destroying the wire if you wanted to. You need special tools to unclip and remove a wire from one of those connectors so there is zero chance of them pulling out of the connector on their own.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Thanks for clarifying, I didn't really know how strong it was held from the wire to the connector. My other psu was the opposite where the smaller connector on the split end was longer, so it was really easy to bend and connect without any tension.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Yeah, I see what you are saying, but so long as it reaches, it should "relax" over time. By a week or two it probably won't be nearly as much tension as when it was new. And if you are really concerned, you could always put a tiny slit in the shrink tube that keeps those two bundles together, right where they split and go their own way, just to relieve a little tension on the connector. Be careful to not cut any of the actual wiring though, just the outer shrink tube that goes around the whole bundle of wires and it would be a good idea to do it with it unplugged, and then cut all the way around so that there is no split remaining afterwards, so that it doesn't just keep splitting down the length of the shrink tube.

So basically, just remove about an 1/8" of the end of that shrink tube which will allow the bundle to have a little more flexibility and reach. It shouldn't take very much at all. But it's probably fine as is anyhow.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Oh yeah, where exactly would I find the MRC fast boot in the bios? It rebooted once when I powered on the pc this morning. It's just incase it reboots the next morning.
I've been just gaming on the new psu at default settings to make sure everything was fine before I overclocked. Then I overclocked it a bit along with the XMP profile later in the morning.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Well, it's the next day and now it got really weird. My computer turned on, no display, and my gpu fans sound like they are running at 100%. Computer and cpu fans are not running, lights are on though.
 
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Sep 28, 2020
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The power supply had a defect, It would reboot under load. I also tested it on my brother's computer and his rebootes under load also.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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It's running now after I inserted my two ram sticks to the other two slots. But this morning when I tried turning it on, the onboard code was 00 (maximus x code motherboard).
It seemed to run fine yesterday, maybe the ram wasn't in all the way, but that doesn't make sense how I was able to use the computer all day.

I decided to just run everything at optimized settings, and will see how it boots tomorrow. Then I'll probably run the overclock settings if all goes well for a week or so.
 
Sep 28, 2020
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I think it's the psu, someone has a psu tester. I plugged it in, and the voltage failed. My defective psu apparently passed it, but failed under load.
 

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