New RX 580 Signal Issues

056265

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So, I got a new rx 580 from powercolor.

I removed my old 380 and installed the 580, plugging in the 6+2 pin and the 6 pin power connectors.

I boot up the system and start to have issues with the monitor losing signal to the graphics card, as my display shows for 1-2 seconds and then goes black and starts to cycle through my display source options. When it reaches DP in, it stops and says "No signal" and then after 1-2 more seconds the display comes back. This then repeats.

This ONLY happens when I have the GPU selected I believe, as when I boot up the system with a clean DDU use, the system boots with "Microsoft basic render driver" and I can use the system, which is what I'm doing now.

In device manager, the card comes up under "Radeon RX 580 Series" and the fans are currently spinning with the LED on the card being on.

When I took out my 380 I did pop off the PCEI clip but nothing was broken on it and I simply reattached it.

I have read about this being a display port issue and I am using a Acer monitor that supports 144hz and I am using the displayport cable that came with the monitor, having no issues running 144hz on my old 380.

Does anybody have any ideas as to whats wrong? I really just want to be able to use my new card :(
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Do you have the latest motherboard BIOS version installed?

Have you tried a hard reset of the CMOS to reset the hardware tables. Sometimes JUST doing that can resolve a lot of issues when you install new hardware, even though you technically shouldn't HAVE to do it. Always worth trying. I've seen this correct just about everything short of a bad component in a lot of cases where new hardware did not want to work correctly.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If that does not work, then I'd try all of the following:

Here are the first steps to take when trying to solve these kinds of hardware problems. If you have already tried these steps, all of them, exactly as outlined, we can move along to more advanced solutions.

If there are any you have NOT done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.


First, make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.

Second, go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.

IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.

The last thing we want to look at, for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.

If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

Here are the full instructions on running the Display driver uninstaller and CLEAN installing new drivers.

*Graphics card CLEAN install tutorial using the DDU*

It's probably also worth mentioning that I've seen a LOT of faulty RX 580 cards in the last month or two, with little explanation as to why so far. If nothing else, you might try going back to a driver version from around October or November, before most of these problems seem to have begun. It would be wise to again use the DDU in safe mode before installing an older driver version.
 

056265

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Okay, I flashed my BIOS. After that I tried reinstalling the drivers from August 2018. Still have the problem. I then turned off the PC, turned off the PSU, unplugged cables from the wall and PSU and then removed the CMOS battery. I held the power button for 30 seconds and waited a few more minutes. I put my BIOS settings back to how they were, pretty much stock and then booted. Screen still loses signal every few seconds and takes longer to restart, making troubleshooting a nightmare. What should I try next?
 

056265

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Picked up a HDMI 1.4a cable as my monitor supports HDMI at 144hz, didn't fix the problem and instead on installing the latest drivers from a clean restart the GPU decided to crash and windows wouldn't boot but instead the monitor would flash different colours of Blue, Green, Red and White. Took the card out and reinstalled my r9 380, cleared CMOS and booted, my 380 works fine as it did before so that cancels out the possible PCIE issue and the PSU issue as both cards draw similar power. Card seems to simply be faulty, I got an RMA from Newegg and I'll be printing the label and dropping it off monday, hopefully I get a WORKING replacement!!

I would provide you with the model number but right now I'm too lazy to open up my computer again.
The PSU I'm using is a EVGA 600W White 80+ which has a 49A 12V rail.

Here's the exact PSU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0600-K3/dp/B01127D0MY/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546878920&sr=1-1&keywords=600w

Hopefully that helps! Thanks for all the help!
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
That's absolutely not good enough for that card. That W1 series unit is really not very good regardless of it's specs. Raidmax, Ultra and some others have units with specs like that, and they too are terrible choices. For a mainstream internet browing machine or office system, maybe, but even then there are better choices for those machines, but for a gaming card. Forget it. Not going to last, or possibly, even work well from the start in some cases.

They are much like the older Corsair CX units. They simply don't hold up under the loads imposed by gaming systems regardless of what their paper specs say. It's also group regulated, not DC-DC, which is still somewhat acceptable these days in cases where it's absolutely necessary because nothing else is available IF the group regulated unit is a very good example of what a power supply should have been for it's time, which that unit is not.

While I do still think the problem was the card, I would advise that you move this power supply to a secondary system, or use it as a temporary backup for troubleshooting purposes or sell it, and get a power supply that is both good quality and DC-DC since you obviously are not a person who lives in an area where you should have to settle for a group regulated unit due to it being the best that is available to you.


There are a lot more like this one, and while there are no actual reviews that I have ever seen of that unit specifically, there are plenty of reviews of other units using the same platform and none of them are any good.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12930

If you click the spoiler box below you'll find my rather explicit model recommendations, AND, I have one further recommendation to make. Not only should you get yourself a very good unit for use with that card, for the variety of reasons mentioned above, but also a higher capacity unit. I realize that the paper specifications for the R9 380 and RX 580 are the same when it comes to the recommended capacity but the RX 580 units really need a larger capacity model. I've seen at least two instances where a very good (Seasonic Titanium ultra 550w in one case, EVGA G2 550w in another) unit was fine for a while but at some point (Likely because of higher than new power demand from changes to the driver structure and possibly some aging of the card as well) that began to not be enough and the cards were tripping their over current or over power protections.

I'm pretty sure I've seen several other cases of this on these cards, but couldn't confirm because those card owners were not as knowledgeable as these other two. An increase to a same or better quality 650w unit cured both those scenarios without further issue. In light of that, it would probably be a very good idea to plan for a high quality 650w-750w unit rather than cutting it dangerously close to where it's troubles seem to begin.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.


 

056265

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I did assume that the PSU would be cutting it close, as well as the lack of reliability. The idea was to get the card up and running and then purchase another PSU immediately as I was well aware of the problems with my current one. Probably going to get an EVGA 750 GQ as I've had good experiences with their 1000W GQ units when building crossfire builds for others. The 750 GQ is only £89.99 and the 650 GQ is £79.99 so I don't see any reason not to purchase the higher bracket. If you have any other PSU recommendations that would be cheaper than this, please do let me know.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
If you don't mind dealing with mail in rebates, there are several that are much better than the GQ series, for about the same price as those after rebates. Both Seasonic and EVGA have always been hassle free for me when it comes to honoring their rebates in a fairly timely fashion. If not, then the GQ series is pretty fair as well.
 

056265

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I recently RMA'd a 580 because it was giving no signals (From Newegg)
I repurchased another (580 8GB Red Devil from PowerColor) from eBuyer instead. I used DDU on my 380 and then removed the card, installing the 580. On booting up, the 580 does not send a signal to my monitor with HDMI or DP at all. The LED's light up and the fans spin however.

I have tried clearing CMOS and I turned off CSM in BIOS, as it was enabled but legacy boot wasn't.

When booting with the integrated GPU, device manager shows my integrated chip from Intel and then Microsoft basic display driver, no Rx 580. I have tried disabling the Intel chip and then running the new drivers but the Intel chip automatically enables itself and the AMD software says it can't identify my card or something along those lines.


Please help, I upgraded PSU to 750w from EVGA, brand new and I really don't think ANOTHER card is broken, but more a problem with my PC. PLEASE help, I'm absolutely desperate after looking on the internet.
 

TJ Hooker

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Just to confirm, your monitor is plugged into your graphics card outputs, not the motherboard display outputs, correct? If you have it connected in the right place you won't be able to get a display from the integrated graphics without changing the connection. And all power connectors have been connected to the graphics card?
 

056265

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Just to confirm, your monitor is plugged into your graphics card outputs, not the motherboard display outputs, correct? If you have it connected in the right place you won't be able to get a display from the integrated graphics without changing the connection. And all power connectors have been connected to the graphics card?
Yeah, I'm not new to PC building. The DP is connected to the card and the 6+2 and 6 pins are connected to the GPU.
 

056265

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Are you able to try the 580 in a different system, and/or do you have a different graphics card you could try in yours?
Yep. My old 380 works fine in my system. Sadly no other PC to possibly test it in. I had to reinstall the 380 after the last 580 wasn't working. The 380 works fine, no issues.
 

056265

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Are you able to try the 580 in a different system, and/or do you have a different graphics card you could try in yours?

Just to confirm, you can't even get a display in the BIOS with the 580?
Absolutely 0 display with the 580, the monitor turns on and looks for a signal when the PC is booted and simply goes past display port or hdmi as if nothing is connected.
 

TJ Hooker

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Huh. That does sound like a dud card. It was a brand new card right?

When you said the iGPU would re enable itself, that was after you disabled it in the BIOS? Interesting, didn't know it could do that.

Could try updating your motherboard BIOS if you haven't already. Really doubt it would help, but it's not going to hurt either.
 

056265

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Huh. That does sound like a dud card. It was a brand new card right?

When you said the iGPU would re enable itself, that was after you disabled it in the BIOS? Interesting, didn't know it could do that.

Could try updating your motherboard BIOS if you haven't already. Really doubt it would help, but it's not going to hurt either.
Brand new from eBuyer. I did not disable it in BIOS, that is impossible because I need to iGPU to get into windows with a display........

When disabled in device manager I was talking about. It reenables when amd drivers try to recognise my card.
MOBO Bios was updated with the last 580 to see if that was the issue, less than 1-2 weeks ago.
 

TJ Hooker

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Grasping at straws here, but maybe try: connect monitor to iGPU, clear CMOS, disable iGPU in BIOS, then shutdown. Then connect monitor to graphics card and power it up.

Does sound like you're going to have to RMA it though :(
 

056265

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Grasping at straws here, but maybe try: connect monitor to iGPU, clear CMOS, disable iGPU in BIOS, then shutdown. Then connect monitor to graphics card and power it up.

Does sound like you're going to have to RMA it though :(
I feel severely let down by eBuyer, Newegg and powercolour. Thanks for the suggestion but I repackaged it completely and I'm going to contact eBuyer about their appalling supply channel. Just going to RMA it and buy from Amazon because I know for a fact I won't have issues with them. On the downside the red devil is my favourite looking 580 and I won't be able to get it on Amazon for a reasonable price.
 

TJ Hooker

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That sucks. DoA cards do happen, but getting multiple in a row is just rotten luck. I don't know how much fault the retailers really have though, if it was a brand new in box card that is faulty it seems like that'd be on Powercolor. That or it got damaged in transit at some point, in which case it'd be hard to assign a blame to anyone in particular.
 

056265

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So I received a PowerColor RX 580 8GB from Newegg the other month. I DDU'd my current R9 380 drivers and installed the card but when connected I received no signal from the card on both the HDMI and DisplayPort ports. Literally 0 display, monitor wouldn't even show BIOS. It simply would turn on, try to detect a signal and then go to "No Signal" and go into standby until I unplugged the cable or plugged another one in, in which case it cycled the sources and eventually came to the same "No Signal" and then went to sleep. The cards fans spun and the LED's turned on. I tried booting into windows with the iGPU and I installed the drivers for the card to see if that could be the problem, in which case the same happened. Then after multiple reinstallations of the drivers the card somehow bricked itself and upon boot the screen would flash different colours. I put this down to a faulty GPU and possibly my 600W EVGA PSU, as it was pretty low quality.

Fast forward to getting a refund for that card, I went with eBuyer instead and paid £20 more for the same card. I also just upgraded my PSU to a brand new EVGA 750W Gold PSU in order to maximise stability and remove any possible future problems.

So, new GPU comes and I install it. Same problem, no signal to monitor. When booting with iGPU and the card installed in the board, it did not display in device manager and when trying to install the AMD drivers it would not recognise the card and would give errors.
I tried turning off CSM in BIOS as it was enabled but legacy boot wasn't.

I feel as though this is an issue with my system and would greatly appreciate any help as the eBuyer 580 is in the middle of an RMA right now and they haven't confirmed it as faulty yet. I'm afraid the card might get shipped back to me and I'll have to just work out what's wrong, which is what I have already tried doing!

System Specs:
ASRock Z270 Killer SLI/ac
i7-7700k
16gb G.Skill Aegis
1TB Seagate HDD
EVGA 750W GQ PSU

I did read a thread about a guy who had to "discharge the capacitors" in his monitor for his new card to work, whereby he disconnected the power and DisplayPort cables and let the monitor sit, and had to do this multiple times. I don't have the card to try this but is this really an issue!?

EDIT: I'm using my R9 380 still and it works PERFECTLY, I've used it inbetween the 580's and I'm using it again now that the second 580 is in an RMA, so there's no issues with my PCIE.
EDIT2: Although I made this as a new thread to gather responses it was merged here and so is probably going to garner 0 attention, which completely defeats the purpose of the post. Thanks mods.
 
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056265

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I mean, I don't know what you can do without having the card. Seems like your best option is to just wait and see what Powercolor says.
eBuyer sent me an email saying I'm being refunded in the next few working days, so either they took my act of sales comment or the card was actually faulty. I really don't want to buy another 580 and I might even consider just buying a mini zotac 1070 for £60 more, I think the performance increase would outweigh the benefit of having freesync possibilities...
 

TJ Hooker

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Yeah, I guess I don't blame you for not wanting to try another RX 580 after your bad luck. You might have better luck getting a more well known brand like MSI or Sapphire, and/or buying from somewhere with a brick and mortar location nearby if possible such that returns/exchanges would be easy.

But a 1070 would be a good option too. I don't know what 2060 prices are like for you, but that could be an option too. And you can actually use Freesync with Nvidia cards now. But support will vary, with some monitors working out of the box and others requiring some fiddling and maybe having some quirks.
 

056265

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Yeah, I guess I don't blame you for not wanting to try another RX 580 after your bad luck. You might have better luck getting a more well known brand like MSI or Sapphire, and/or buying from somewhere with a brick and mortar location nearby if possible such that returns/exchanges would be easy.

But a 1070 would be a good option too. I don't know what 2060 prices are like for you, but that could be an option too. And you can actually use Freesync with Nvidia cards now. But support will vary, with some monitors working out of the box and others requiring some fiddling and maybe having some quirks.
I don't see any point going with a 2060 for £70 more than a 1070 to be honest, especially for the 10 or so frames average I'd get. Also not interested in the shill that is ray tracing lol.
I've heard about Nvidia cards supporting FreeSync but I thought it was a hack/mod sort of thing and unofficial? I've had a look online and I still don't quite understand how it works, if you could be so kind to explain to me? Just because I'd love to buy a 1070 instead, the only factor I was counting was that I have a FreeSync monitor, so if I could use FreeSync with a 1070 I'd purchase it 100% over the 580, as the price difference is only around £50 and the performance difference is huge.
 

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Yeah, I guess I don't blame you for not wanting to try another RX 580 after your bad luck. You might have better luck getting a more well known brand like MSI or Sapphire, and/or buying from somewhere with a brick and mortar location nearby if possible such that returns/exchanges would be easy.

But a 1070 would be a good option too. I don't know what 2060 prices are like for you, but that could be an option too. And you can actually use Freesync with Nvidia cards now. But support will vary, with some monitors working out of the box and others requiring some fiddling and maybe having some quirks.
Well it turns out my monitor was one of the 12 supported out of the 400 tested or something like that, the Acer XZ321Q, I got it for a really good price a few years back! So I'm assured that it works great by Nvidia I guess, only issue is I can't find anywhere in the monitor settings to turn on FreeSync... the only place I can turn it on is in my Radeon settings
 

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