New watercooling setup!! Any comments?

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
paintballwizzx

paintballwizzx

Distinguished
Oct 8, 2007
75
0
18,630
ok guys, i know this is really pricey... but i also want the best for my components 😀 .. take a look and comment on it if ya want. :sol:

Case http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-mozart-tx-black-window.html 216.99

Fluid http://www.xoxide.com/primoice-nonconductive-fluid-uvblue.html 19.99

Pumps http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html 79.00 X2

Cpu block http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-apogee-gtx-waterblock.html 75.00

Tubing http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2266/ex-tub-113/PrimoFlex_12_ID_-_34_OD_PVC_Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172 30.00

Vga block http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5881/ex-blc-359/Danger_Den_8800GTS_Video_Card_Liquid_Cooling_Block_DD_-_8800_GTS.html?tl=g30c87s145
159.00
Chipset block http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5492/ex-blc-343/Danger_Den_MPC-680i_Liquid_Cooling_nVidia_680i_Intel_Chipset_Block.html?tl=g30c89s149 43.00

Anit-Kink http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3846/tsl-01/Horizon_Blue_UV_Reactive_CoolSleeve_for_38_ID_Tubing_40_Piece.html?tl=g30c289s715 20.00

Reservoirs http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6230/ex-res-128/XSPC_525_Bay_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear.html?tl=g30c97s168 60.00 X2

Radiators http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2153/ex-rad-32/Danger_Den_Black_Ice_Xtreme_II_Dual_120mm_Radiator_Blue_w_Customizable_Fittings.html?tl=g30c95s160 65.00 X2

Temp indicators http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2339/ex-tub-88/Thermaltake_T-type_Water_Temperature_Indicator_CL-W0033.html?tl=g30c229s579 35.00 X2\

Barbs/fittings/connectors 15.00

120mm fans http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2500/fan-199/AeroCool_120mm_Xtreme_Turbine_8939CFM_Fan_-_UV_BLUE.html?tl=g36c15s518 20.50 X12



Estimated total $1250.00 😱
 
If you want to save some money over FCPU check out Petra's or Performance PCs.

You can just use distilled water + PT Biocide to save money on Fluid. Personally I think the case is overpriced and you could save money by going to a Lian-Li Full Tower case (Low end options are high 100s if you don't mind cutting - hang a RadBox off the back and cut a hole in the top for 2 radiators).

D-Tek FuZion is supposed to be the best right now with a nozzle kit and bowing it. Even if you don't bow it it'll outperform the Swiftech GTX with a nozzle kit.

I'd use 7/16" ID Tubing or 1/2" OD barbs. Won't lose much flow and they make bends easier.

For the Res I would just get a Tanky Double from Performance PCs. 2 Ins and 2 Outs for 2 Loops.

VGA Block it's a personal preference, you can save money by going to an MCW60 from Swiftech and not using a full cover block. It's really not needed.

I wouldn't bother with temp indicators.

You can get Swiftech MCR320s for less than the cost of those Radiators.

Fans I would get Yate Loon D12SLs or if you want more performance SMs. They are about $5 a piece.

I did my parts list not too long ago and it was half that to put the CPU/GPU/NB under water on 2 full 3 Fan rads with 2 pumps.
 
Thanks for the reply! ill switch out the cpu block for the D-Tek FuZion, if it indeed is better. and ill get the tanky double also..and the fans for sure! thanks
 


Just the ones I posted about saving some cash.

My list ended up being about $500-600 for a CPU/NB/GPU loop (2 pumps) with 2 320 Radiators.

I'm fully expecting $1000ish for the setup with a case after this build.
 
ya pretty much, the fans i picked were really pricy and i found some ones better for cheaper then they ones you even found. so ill save close to 200$ there... then the dual icebox.. and the D-tek fuzion.

The D-tek fuzion isn't very popular on the net ive found... only found it in a few places..How do you know its so much better?? And im no expert on the waterworld yet, so what nozzle kit should i get?? and how do you bow? i know what it is, but how to do it boggles me...
 
 
wow those PA120.2 are real expencive! what makes them so? the MCR220s are tripple... i need doubles.. i also want a blue one. so one of the above is gonna be it..

Another qustion i thought of lastnight was do longer tubes in your loop make cooling worse?
 


lol didn't see that post. I've been gone a few days.. anyways.

If you want a blue one that one will do fine but it won't perform as well as an MCR220 (which is a double, the 320 is the triple). You could get the MCR220 and get some UV paint and do it yourself.

Thermochills are expensive because they are currently the pinnacle of performance in the water cooling market, you pay for the premium.

Yes, longer tubes will cause more restrictions. More restrictions will lower the overall flow of the closed system. This is why you should make smooth transitions, nothing like a hard "L" or anything like that. In the closed loop though, the flow will be the same at any point in the system. The overall flow will be lower with more tubing/restrictions (also depending on the head rating of the pump).
 
What you have to do is pay attention to the "flowrate" and "head" of your pump. While flowrate may appear to be the most popular of characteristics of a pump, the "head" of a pump will have some influence on your question of tubing length (a well as height).

For purposes of definition, “Head” refers to the height of a vertical column of water. This is the maximum height that a pump can sustain any semblance of flow rate before it loses its capabilities. For purposes of an example we'll use a pump rated at 317gph with an imaginery "head" of 36 inches. At 0 inches of height you will have maximum flow rate and the pressure will be zero. Pressure is a measure of resistance to flow. Thus, at its initial discharge, at 0 height, the pump experiences its least resistance and generates its fullest flow. As the height in the cooling loop increases, the resistance to flow increases and the flow rate decreases. Earlier we said that our pump had a "head" of 36 inches. The closer the pump gets to its "36 inch" height, the less flow is generated.

So, at 0 height we have 0 pressure and 317gph. At 36 inches we have full pressure and no flow.

Understand that the areas of greatest resistance are, first, going to be the rads and then the waterblocks. This is why waterblocks like the MCW60, Fuzion, Maze4 or the Swiftech Stealth are less likely to affect the efficiency of your cooling loop because they have simplified channels (in contrast to, say, the fullbody DangerDen, EK, Alphacool and Koolance GPU waterblocks which have the additional channels for memory). The greater the "head" of your pump, though, the more tubing you can employ and still maintain excellent flow.

The pump that you are getting, the MCP 655, is excellent in this department as it has a max "head" of over 10 feet and a flowrate of 317 gph.

Understanding that the CPU and GPU are the primary components for cooling, any additional waterblocks in a loop should only be considered if a decent HSF combo couldn't suffice (as they will only add to the resistance in a cooling loops flow).
 
Wow, very indepth answer! thanks! that helps me out alot, and because im getting two of he mcp 655 pumps, I dont have much to worry about in that place.

The MCR220 res i think i might just do... I looked at some reviews and it looks close to top notch.. and the blue uv paint too.

also, im still really confused at what the best gpu block is.. i just dont know.. the dangerden one i chose is the best ive heard... but the swiftech stealth is lookin pretty good... so i just dont know.. ugg.

thanks guys for the info!
 
Well, as far as GPU blocks are concerned I can let you know about my experience between the Danger Den Fullbody waterblock and the Swiftech Stealth as it applies to the 8800GTX as I have used both with it.

I, initially, purchased the Danger Den Fullbody waterblock and was getting around 56 degrees on load. With the Swiftech Stealth I am currently getting 46-47 on load - quite a big difference. While I did have to use heatsinks for the voltage regulators on my GPU (they came with the Stealth) I was quite pleased with it's performance. The Stealth is based on the Spogee CPU waterblock design and is condusive to a good flowrate. While the Danger Den model does encompass the video memory and the voltage regulators in its waterblock it is not as good for the flowrate as the Stealth due to its many bends and turns in the water channel.
 
Why dont you go with CoolIts Systems new Boreas 12TEC Liquid cooled chiller that comes installed in a Sliverstone TJ-07 caase. You will save close to $300 and have a system thats 100% better. I will have one in my lab sometime this week for testing and then to do the review. I also just tested and reviewed their new Freezone Elite. The new design as well as the 120mm 120cfm fan truly paid off. I had a QX6800 that was OCed to 3.51GHz running under full load for 36hrs and it never went over 34c. the mobo died so we did not have a chance to push it higher,but since then i have had it at 3.86Ghz and it did not go over 40c underfull load. Now the Elite has six TEC units and it gave me those fantastic temps,so you can only imagine how well a larger Chiller with 12 TECs and two 120mm 120cfm will perform. The Boreas is setup to cool processors/ vidio cards / as well as chipsets for around $900 shipped and that includes the software / control module / and MTEC Control Center. Plus like i mentioned it comes pre-installed in the TJ-07 case. However you can also just buy the Boreas and install it in what ever case you choose as long as it has the room. I have photos if you would like to see them.

Stan




 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom