Question Newly Purchased Ryzen 7 5800X, No Post regardless of troubleshooting

[NotApplicable]

Hi All,

Specs below...

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite Wifi
GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 6700 XT
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200MHz (32GB, 2 sticks proper slots)
PSU: NZXT 750W Modular
Cooler: Noctua NH-U12a
Current CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
BIOS Version: F37
SSD Drive: Mushkin Temptest M.2 NVMe SSD 2TB
Operating System: Windows 11

Steps:

Cleared CMOS via shorting the jumper pins
Cleared CMOS via pulling the battery for 5 minutes and then reseating it
Turned off the PSU, hold power button for 30 seconds, turn PSU back on and attempt to boot
Tried one single RAM stick to boot, no dice
Reset BIOS defaults using original CPU and had already updated the BIOS to the non-beta version (Latest, F37), no dice
I've swapped the CPU out approximately 7 - 8 times to troubleshoot, no dice
I've attempted to load Optimized Defaults via BIOS with original CPU installed before attempting to install the 5800X, no dice after installing the new CPU.

I'm wondering if either the CPU is dead OR...
AMD fTPM along with Secure Boot enabled is causing the issue altogether.

Would anyone have any suggestions before I send the CPU back to Amazon?

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, it DOES work if you put the 5600x back in?

If so, I think I would TRY the F38a BIOS first, and then swap CPUs back out, do a HARD reset of the BIOS, and see if it will POST into the BIOS. I am assuming that you mean it will NOT POST into the BIOS if the 5800x is installed, yes?

If that doesn't work, then yes, I'd return the CPU because there is literally nothing else it could be and getting a CPU from Amazon or Newegg that somebody has already ruined, or modified, or had problems with, it 100% not an uncommon thing and you might never know it. They are very good at making sure the packaging looks like it has never been opened before after somebody returns something. It's one of the ways they tend to scrape a few extra dollars off the bottom of the barrel as many people will simply suck it up and buy another one or go a different direction and never return that part that Amazon already knew was bad because they just don't want to have to deal with it or because Amazon/Newegg makes it a real PITA sometimes to return electronic hardware, in some cases, if it's ever been installed.

BIOS hard reset procedure should be followed EXACTLY as outlined, not piecemeal in different steps like what you did before. You did all the steps, but as separate processes. Needs to be all one process. Disconnect power/Turn off PSU switch, remove CMOS battery, press power button for 30 seconds, restore CMOS battery, restore power, power on.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

 

[DRagor]

If your 5600X is still working fine with all those swaps then I guess there is nothing else but bad 5800 to suspect.

AMD fTPM along with Secure Boot enabled is causing the issue altogether.

Since secure boot is enabled by default on most boards now that would mean you could not swap CPU at all which makes no sense.

 

[NotApplicable]

Thank you both for your input. I do appreciate it. It's definitely a bad CPU at this point and as Darkbreeze replied, I did recently try those steps earlier this morning around 9:40AM EST. I'm most likely going to say it's a bad CPU.

Again, thank you both.

 

[NotApplicable]

So, it DOES work if you put the 5600x back in?

If so, I think I would TRY the F38a BIOS first, and then swap CPUs back out, do a HARD reset of the BIOS, and see if it will POST into the BIOS. I am assuming that you mean it will NOT POST into the BIOS if the 5800x is installed, yes?

If that doesn't work, then yes, I'd return the CPU because there is literally nothing else it could be and getting a CPU from Amazon or Newegg that somebody has already ruined, or modified, or had problems with, it 100% not an uncommon thing and you might never know it. They are very good at making sure the packaging looks like it has never been opened before after somebody returns something. It's one of the ways they tend to scrape a few extra dollars off the bottom of the barrel as many people will simply suck it up and buy another one or go a different direction and never return that part that Amazon already knew was bad because they just don't want to have to deal with it or because Amazon/Newegg makes it a real PITA sometimes to return electronic hardware, in some cases, if it's ever been installed.

BIOS hard reset procedure should be followed EXACTLY as outlined, not piecemeal in different steps like what you did before. You did all the steps, but as separate processes. Needs to be all one process. Disconnect power/Turn off PSU switch, remove CMOS battery, press power button for 30 seconds, restore CMOS battery, restore power, power on.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

Yes you are correct, with the 5800X installed, I cannot access the BIOS, no display on screen (directly connected to GPU). The steps you mentioned, I did make an attempt and still, no dice. I'll go ahead and make a return to Amazon. I do appreciate you taking the time today.

 

[NotApplicable]

If your 5600X is still working fine with all those swaps then I guess there is nothing else but bad 5800 to suspect.

Since secure boot is enabled by default on most boards now that would mean you could not swap CPU at all which makes no sense.

My thoughts to the "T". If the CPU were to POST, I would have been greeted with the BIOS screen telling me the BIOS has been reset and to reconfigure settings. The CPU is DOA I'd say. Thank you for taking the time today, I do appreciate it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Sorry it's bad news, but better than continuing to beat your head against the wall for no reason. When buying from Amazon, did you buy "Sold by" and "Ships from" Amazon, or was it through a third party Amazon seller that shipped it to you or even if it was third party and Amazon "shipped" it, still can be sketchy. Can be sketchy anyhow, but more likely when third party is involved as Amazon does absolutely not vet those products. They simply send them or fulfill the online portion of the order while the dude in some garage in Chicago or New York sends you your part.

I always try to stick specifically to Sold by and Ships from Amazon when ordering from them if at ALL possible. At least it helps somewhat to minimize the risk. Good luck man.

 

[kerberos_20]

If your 5600X is still working fine with all those swaps then I guess there is nothing else but bad 5800 to suspect.

Since secure boot is enabled by default on most boards now that would mean you could not swap CPU at all which makes no sense.

no issue, once your swap CPU, mainboard firmware will let you know that TPM cached entry is corrupted/mismatched due to CPU change and will let you choose between reseting TPM or skipping it (bitlocker reasons)


theres basicly zero diff between 5600X and 5800X, so should be just CPU swap without fiddling with bios updates/clearing cmos

 

[JeffreyP55]

Hi All,

Specs below...

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite Wifi
GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 6700 XT
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200MHz (32GB, 2 sticks proper slots)
PSU: NZXT 750W Modular
Cooler: Noctua NH-U12a
Current CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
BIOS Version: F37
SSD Drive: Mushkin Temptest M.2 NVMe SSD 2TB
Operating System: Windows 11

Steps:

Cleared CMOS via shorting the jumper pins
Cleared CMOS via pulling the battery for 5 minutes and then reseating it
Turned off the PSU, hold power button for 30 seconds, turn PSU back on and attempt to boot
Tried one single RAM stick to boot, no dice
Reset BIOS defaults using original CPU and had already updated the BIOS to the non-beta version (Latest, F37), no dice
I've swapped the CPU out approximately 7 - 8 times to troubleshoot, no dice
I've attempted to load Optimized Defaults via BIOS with original CPU installed before attempting to install the 5800X, no dice after installing the new CPU.

I'm wondering if either the CPU is dead OR...
AMD fTPM along with Secure Boot enabled is causing the issue altogether.

Would anyone have any suggestions before I send the CPU back to Amazon?

I swapped out a 5600x for a 5950x. All I did was a hard reset and all was fine. Windows 11 Pro..
Just needed to enable DOCP and set overclocking functions to auto.
Follow the directions given to you on how to do a hard BIOS reset.

 

[NotApplicable]

I swapped out a 5600x for a 5950x. All I did was a hard reset and all was fine. Windows 11 Pro..
Just needed to enable DOCP and set overclocking functions to auto.
Follow the directions given to you on how to do a hard BIOS reset.

I have absolutely followed the instructions for the hard reset and there is zero response. Fans are full speed, no POST screen, no display on the monitor either. I'm afraid it's a dead cpu, sadly.

 

[NotApplicable]

Sorry it's bad news, but better than continuing to beat your head against the wall for no reason. When buying from Amazon, did you buy "Sold by" and "Ships from" Amazon, or was it through a third party Amazon seller that shipped it to you or even if it was third party and Amazon "shipped" it, still can be sketchy. Can be sketchy anyhow, but more likely when third party is involved as Amazon does absolutely not vet those products. They simply send them or fulfill the online portion of the order while the dude in some garage in Chicago or New York sends you your part.

I always try to stick specifically to Sold by and Ships from Amazon when ordering from them if at ALL possible. At least it helps somewhat to minimize the risk. Good luck man.

Agreed. This was sold and shipped by Amazon so I'm a bit puzzled as to how this cpu is DOA.

 

[NotApplicable]

Well Gentleman,

I've nipped this in the bud. It seems rather strange to me so I will detail below.

Using the manufacturer recommended A2 and B2 slots for the RAM (Slots 2 and 4), the system would not post with the 5800X in. I took out the RAM module from slot 4 and the system POST'ed and I could configure the BIOS. To test, I put the RAM module back in slot 4 and the system again would not POST, no display, etc. So I tried slots 1 and 3 with the same result, no display, no POST. I thought... Hmm, I remember this from a previous 5800X installation. So, I placed the RAM module that was in slot 4, into slot 1 so that the RAM modules were situated in slots 1 and 2... voila, everything works as intended. XMP profile is enabled, fan configuration set to Performance and I'm messaging you all from the PC now. I will test with a few games to see how performance fares.

Thank you all.

 

[DRagor]

the RAM modules were situated in slots 1 and 2... voila, everything works as intended

Not really though. In this configuration you are losing dual channel which means big hit on performance. Check the 5800 for bent pins.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Exactly. Nothing is "fixed". If you cannot use slots A2 and B2, which are the ONLY approved slots for two DIMM operation PER JEDEC standards and per standard bus termination reasons which are there FOR a reason, then there is either a problem with the board, or the memory or the CPU. Period. If you have to ANYTHING else, you are simply putting on a band aid. If those DIMM slots work with the same memory but a different CPU, then the CPU is the problem. Period.

 

[NotApplicable]

Exactly. Nothing is "fixed". If you cannot use slots A2 and B2, which are the ONLY approved slots for two DIMM operation PER JEDEC standards and per standard bus termination reasons which are there FOR a reason, then there is either a problem with the board, or the memory or the CPU. Period. If you have to ANYTHING else, you are simply putting on a band aid. If those DIMM slots work with the same memory but a different CPU, then the CPU is the problem. Period.

You've hit the nail on the head. I've reinstalled the original 5600X with the RAM in slots A2 and B2, no problems and boots fine. The memory controller on the CPU may be at fault. It is being returned.

Thank you all again.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You are very welcome and best of luck going forward.