Question No change in temps after installing 3 Arctic P12 PWM 0db fans.

[JumperCat]

Recently I installed 2 of the fans in the title on the top of my Q500L case as well as replacing the stock exhaust fan with one. Theyre "0db" so I expected them to be pretty silent and decrease the monstrosity temperatures that my case produces. I am talking about my CPU (Ryzen 5 3600) running almost 65°C with 0 apps open (CPU cooler - Be quiet! Pure rock 2). Not only did the temps not decrease, the PC is now louder as the fans are very loud ( they are on 50% power above 70°C). Can I do something to lower the temperatures without my PC sounding like a F-16? I can give more details if needed.

 

[Aeacus]

Which P12 PWM? Since there are several, and none of them, at first glance at least, offer semi-passive feature (0 dB(A)),
Arctic 120mm PWM fans lineup: https://www.arctic.de/en/products/c...ed9cb9c267ab|dcdb46891f1b44d0a7d9ceddcc34350d

 

[JumperCat]

Which P12 PWM? Since there are several, and none of them, at first glance at least, offer semi-passive feature (0 dB(A)),
Arctic 120mm PWM fans lineup: https://www.arctic.de/en/products/cooling/case-fans/?order=topseller&p=1&properties=e823368765aa42648807ed9cb9c267ab|dcdb46891f1b44d0a7d9ceddcc34350d

These ones right here: https://www.arctic.de/en/P12-PWM-PST-A-RGB/ACFAN00232A

 

[Phaaze88]

I don't know if there's a quality control problem with that case or what, but some say cooling is fine in this case, others say the opposite.

So maybe, just maybe, there's a specific configuration(s) that work in this case, while others don't. Unfortunately, I don't know what the good config is... maybe a chimney stack would work.
What's the rest of the hardware, like:
-ram(for height info)
-gpu model(need to know what the cooler type is)

 

[Aeacus]

These ones right here: https://www.arctic.de/en/P12-PWM-PST-A-RGB/ACFAN00232A

Thank you.

Now, while Arctic makes great airflow fans, their static pressure fans are average.

The fans you got, have 1.85 mmH2O static pressure. It's okay-ish, but nothing to be happy about. For comparison, in my PCs, the 120mm fans i have (Corsair ML120 Pro LED), has static pressure of 4.2 mmH2O. That's more than double + then some.

Also, due to the unique layout of your Q500L PC case, your PSU will contribute into heating up PC internals, hence why you see such high temps.

Random image from the net to showcase it:

See how the PSU exhaust ends just in front of the top fan? And not being flush with top panel.

--

Your PC case also supports 140mm fans, and i don't know why you bought 120mm fans, while you could've gone with 140mm instead. Going with 140mm fans is always better idea, since same spec fan, but in bigger size, offers better airflow and can be better in static pressure, than it's smaller counterpart.

For example; Arctic P14 PWM PST A-RGB has;
68.9 CFM (vs 48.8 CFM of P12 PWM PST A-RGB)
2 mmH2O (vs 1.85 mmH2O of P12 PWM PST A-RGB)
specs: https://www.arctic.de/en/P14-PWM-PST-A-RGB/ACFAN00239A

Now, between the P12 and P14, the increase in static pressure is little and i doubt it would've made a difference. But difference in airflow is great and it could've made a difference.

--

Though, do note that you can not get both at the same time: good airflow and low noise. It is either great airflow with high noise, or poor airflow with little noise. <- There is exception to this rule, but this can't be done in the PC case you have. Since you do not have any front fan mounts, while PSU takes up half of the front as well.

 

[JumperCat]

Thank you.

Now, while Arctic makes great airflow fans, their static pressure fans are average.

The fans you got, have 1.85 mmH2O static pressure. It's okay-ish, but nothing to be happy about. For comparison, in my PCs, the 120mm fans i have (Corsair ML120 Pro LED), has static pressure of 4.2 mmH2O. That's more than double + then some.

Also, due to the unique layout of your Q500L PC case, your PSU will contribute into heating up PC internals, hence why you see such high temps.

Random image from the net to showcase it:

See how the PSU exhaust ends just in front of the top fan? And not being flush with top panel.

--

Your PC case also supports 140mm fans, and i don't know why you bought 120mm fans, while you could've gone with 140mm instead. Going with 140mm fans is always better idea, since same spec fan, but in bigger size, offers better airflow and can be better in static pressure, than it's smaller counterpart.

For example; Arctic P14 PWM PST A-RGB has;
68.9 CFM (vs 48.8 CFM of P12 PWM PST A-RGB)
2 mmH2O (vs 1.85 mmH2O of P12 PWM PST A-RGB)
specs: https://www.arctic.de/en/P14-PWM-PST-A-RGB/ACFAN00239A

Now, between the P12 and P14, the increase in static pressure is little and i doubt it would've made a difference. But difference in airflow is great and it could've made a difference.

--

Though, do note that you can not get both at the same time: good airflow and low noise. It is either great airflow with high noise, or poor airflow with little noise. <- There is exception to this rule, but this can't be done in the PC case you have. Since you do not have any front fan mounts, while PSU takes up half of the front as well.

Thank you for explaining everything thoroughly, I really appreciate it! I will note everything you said. The thing is, I wouldn't have an issue with the noise IF temps decreased. As you said, with good airflow comes high noise, and vice versa. Here, its just the same temps I had before WITH extra noise. Lets say I would remove the fans right now, id have the same temps without any noise. So I'm trying to figure out what's going on.

 

[Aeacus]

So I'm trying to figure out what's going on.

My best guess, Arctic P12 fans, that you installed at the bottom, and i assume as intake?, may not have enough static pressure to pull the cool air in from the bottom, due to the case fan grille (and maybe even through the filters). Then again, where is your PC placed at? On the floor on the carpet? Or on the table with clear path to the bottom of the case?

And your PSU also exhausts into your PC case, adding far more heat to the system. Most PC cases, with bottom mounted PSU and when fan is facing downwards, completely isolate PSU from the rest of the PC's airflow. Or when PSU fan is mounted upwards, PSU acts as exhaust.

--

Now, it may be possible to "save" your PC, but that means buying new fans and exceptional ones.
Most fans out there, have either good airflow but poor static pressure or vice-versa. However, there are fans out there that struck near perfect balance between good airflow, good static pressure and relatively low level of noise. But those fans come with premium price and question here is if you're willing to pay the price.

If you are, then look towards Corsair ML Pro series fans,
120mm, specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050042-WW
140mm, specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050048-WW
review 01: https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/leo-waldock/corsair-ml140-and-ml120-fans/
review 02: https://thepcenthusiast.com/corsair-ml120-pro-led-120mm-pwm-premium-fan-review/
120mm, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/LkJkcf,GXkwrH,MpBrxr,wPFXsY/
140mm, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/D34NnQ,cfyxFT,sYNypg,ycH48d/

In my Skylake and Haswell builds (full specs with pics in my sig), i have those very same fans in use (red LED in Skylake, blue LED in Haswell) since these fans are one of the best (if not the best) fans when it comes to the balance in airflow and static pressure. Sure, ML Pro LED fans have premium price but they also have mag-lev bearing (one of the few fans that have it).

Pros/cons wise, you're looking at:
120mm
Pros

• great airflow (12 - 75 CFM)
• great static pressure (0.2 - 4.2 mmH2O)
• great RPM range (400 - 2400 RPM)
• PWM control (4-pin fan)
• mag-lev bearing (300.000+ work hours)
• 4 color options (red, blue, white LED and non-LED version)
• warranty 5 years

Mediocre

• noise output (16 - 37 dB(A))
• power draw 0.299 A

Cons
* price

140mm
Pros

• great airflow (20 - 97 CFM)
• great static pressure (0.2 - 3.0 mmH2O)
• great RPM range (400 - 2000 RPM)
• PWM control (4-pin fan)
• mag-lev bearing (300.000+ work hours)
• 4 color options (red, blue, white LED and non-LED version)
• warranty 5 years

Mediocre

• noise output (16 - 37 dB(A))
• power draw 0.276 A

Cons
* price

--

I suggest buying 4x 140mm fans and mounting them as: 2x 140mm as top exhaust, 2x 140mm as bottom intake. Or if you want to go all out, then get one Corsair ML120 Pro LED as well, for rear exhaust.

Now, i know that they don't offer ARGB or any RGB in that matter and are instead single color (or no color at all), but what they do offer, is exceptional performance, which is equal to the premium price they cost.

Here, even when these high-end fans won't solve your heating issue, then it's time to replace your PC case.

 

[JumperCat]

My best guess, Arctic P12 fans, that you installed at the bottom, and i assume as intake?, may not have enough static pressure to pull the cool air in from the bottom, due to the case fan grille (and maybe even through the filters). Then again, where is your PC placed at? On the floor on the carpet? Or on the table with clear path to the bottom of the case?

And your PSU also exhausts into your PC case, adding far more heat to the system. Most PC cases, with bottom mounted PSU and when fan is facing downwards, completely isolate PSU from the rest of the PC's airflow. Or when PSU fan is mounted upwards, PSU acts as exhaust.

--

Now, it may be possible to "save" your PC, but that means buying new fans and exceptional ones.
Most fans out there, have either good airflow but poor static pressure or vice-versa. However, there are fans out there that struck near perfect balance between good airflow, good static pressure and relatively low level of noise. But those fans come with premium price and question here is if you're willing to pay the price.

If you are, then look towards Corsair ML Pro series fans,
120mm, specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050042-WW
140mm, specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050048-WW
review 01: https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/leo-waldock/corsair-ml140-and-ml120-fans/
review 02: https://thepcenthusiast.com/corsair-ml120-pro-led-120mm-pwm-premium-fan-review/
120mm, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/LkJkcf,GXkwrH,MpBrxr,wPFXsY/
140mm, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/D34NnQ,cfyxFT,sYNypg,ycH48d/

In my Skylake and Haswell builds (full specs with pics in my sig), i have those very same fans in use (red LED in Skylake, blue LED in Haswell) since these fans are one of the best (if not the best) fans when it comes to the balance in airflow and static pressure. Sure, ML Pro LED fans have premium price but they also have mag-lev bearing (one of the few fans that have it).

Pros/cons wise, you're looking at:
120mm
Pros

• great airflow (12 - 75 CFM)
• great static pressure (0.2 - 4.2 mmH2O)
• great RPM range (400 - 2400 RPM)
• PWM control (4-pin fan)
• mag-lev bearing (300.000+ work hours)
• 4 color options (red, blue, white LED and non-LED version)
• warranty 5 years

Mediocre

• noise output (16 - 37 dB(A))
• power draw 0.299 A

Cons
* price

140mm
Pros

• great airflow (20 - 97 CFM)
• great static pressure (0.2 - 3.0 mmH2O)
• great RPM range (400 - 2000 RPM)
• PWM control (4-pin fan)
• mag-lev bearing (300.000+ work hours)
• 4 color options (red, blue, white LED and non-LED version)
• warranty 5 years

Mediocre

• noise output (16 - 37 dB(A))
• power draw 0.276 A

Cons
* price

--

I suggest buying 4x 140mm fans and mounting them as: 2x 140mm as top exhaust, 2x 140mm as bottom intake. Or if you want to go all out, then get one Corsair ML120 Pro LED as well, for rear exhaust.

Now, i know that they don't offer ARGB or any RGB in that matter and are instead single color (or no color at all), but what they do offer, is exceptional performance, which is equal to the premium price they cost.

Here, even when these high-end fans won't solve your heating issue, then it's time to replace your PC case.

There is clear path at the bottom of my case and the fans are at the top, not at the bottom. Sadly at the moment I am unable to spend more money on fans, so these will have to do. In the future I will upgrade my case, as my motherboard is ATX and even though the case supports ATX things are pretty suffocated in there, which also means the cable management is pretty poor. All of these things are my case's fault. Any good case recommendations around the 80-90 euro mark? Also going to unmount my CPU cooler and add some new thermal paste this week. Hopefully things get a bit better, my CPU hits 68-77 degrees while gaming. Thank you for all the tips you gave, I will save some of these fans just in case I upgrade at any time. Appreciate you!

 

[SkyNetRising]

There is clear path at the bottom of my case and the fans are at the top, not at the bottom.

Can you show a photo of your system with side panel removed?
(upload to imgur.com and post link)

How are your fans oriented?
Does your case have any intake fans at all?
It looks like your pc case doesn't support frontal intake fans.

BTW - intake fans are much more important than exhaust fans.

 

[Aeacus]

Sadly at the moment I am unable to spend more money on fans, so these will have to do.

You'd see most improvement if you take you side panel off and run open case. This way, heat won't be trapped inside the small case.

BTW - intake fans are much more important than exhaust fans.

Overall, yes. But there are exceptions.

Now, with only intake fans, you'd get positive pressure inside the case, while with only exhaust fans, you'd get negative pressure inside the case. It has been proven that between positive or negative pressure, negative pressure gives better cooling. Of course, that is, when the fans are powerful enough to create a good negative pressure. But with poor to mediocre fans, better run those as intake, especially if fan amount is 1-3.

There is clear path at the bottom of my case and the fans are at the top, not at the bottom.

I'd dismount at least one (preferably both) top fans and put them at the bottom, as intake. This way, you'd have some sort of airflow, from bottom to (top) rear.

 

[JumperCat]

You'd see most improvement if you take you side panel off and run open case. This way, heat won't be trapped inside the small case.

What about the dust?

You'd see most improvement if you take you side panel off and run open case. This way, heat won't be trapped inside the small case.



Overall, yes. But there are exceptions.

Now, with only intake fans, you'd get positive pressure inside the case, while with only exhaust fans, you'd get negative pressure inside the case. It has been proven that between positive or negative pressure, negative pressure gives better cooling. Of course, that is, when the fans are powerful enough to create a good negative pressure. But with poor to mediocre fans, better run those as intake, especially if fan amount is 1-3.



I'd dismount at least one (preferably both) top fans and put them at the bottom, as intake. This way, you'd have some sort of airflow, from bottom to (top) rear.

What about the dust if I remove the side panel? Also do you mean the glass or the other side panel? Should I dismount both fans and run them at the bottom of my case? Thanks!

 

[JumperCat]

I don't know if there's a quality control problem with that case or what, but some say cooling is fine in this case, others say the opposite.

So maybe, just maybe, there's a specific configuration(s) that work in this case, while others don't. Unfortunately, I don't know what the good config is... maybe a chimney stack would work.
What's the rest of the hardware, like:
-ram(for height info)
-gpu model(need to know what the cooler type is)

Sorry! I never really saw your reply. I have 1x8gb hyperx fury stick and my gpu is a rx 6600 powercolor hellhound.

 

[Aeacus]

What about the dust if I remove the side panel?

Dust is least of your worries when your PC is burning up due to excess heat.

Also do you mean the glass or the other side panel?

Glass panel. That is, IF you keep your top fans as they are.

Should I dismount both fans and run them at the bottom of my case?

If you want your PC case to lean more towards negative pressure, then you can leave the top fan, closest to rear fan, in place, as exhaust. While putting the single bottom fan close to the front.

Else-ways, dismount both and put them as bottom intakes.

--

Overall, you can try two things:

1. Move top fans to bottom and as intake.
2. If bottom fans still doesn't help, remove the glass side panel, until you get either more/better fans, or new PC case.

 

[Phaaze88]

Sorry! I never really saw your reply. I have 1x8gb hyperx fury stick and my gpu is a rx 6600 powercolor hellhound.

Well, I was noticed, so it's fine. I have a suggestion that you could try, might not cost anything, and may help.
1)Get a pair of 2x4s, or something similar, that you can use to sit the feet of the case on top of. The extra height should enhance bottom intake.
2)2 bottom intake fans.
3)Flip your rear case fan to intake.
4)Move the fan on your Pure Rock 2 to rear intake.
Instead of the usual:
[heatsink]fan <-airflow direction

Do this:
fan[heatsink] ->airflow direction

5)2 top exhausts.