Question No post - no video - please help

Mar 31, 2019
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0
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System Details:

MSI H81-M33 board
I7-4790
16gb Ram
Attempting to use on board video which has vga and hdmi

So I recently built my son a Ryzen 2700 system and took his working mobo and processor out and into a new case to replace our older pc . The issue is the system starts but doesn’t post. The processor fan runs hard and the system doesn’t post. So today I decided to do process of elimination.. I went to micro center and bought new ram, new power supply, new processor fan / heat sink, new thermal paste, and a new cheap video card. I came home and built the system .... same issue. I tested each part individually, no post....

I took the processor out, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and cue tip and used the new paste already on the bottom of the new heat sink I purchased..... same issue, no video. I put the processor in another oem board and did the same process.... no video. I don’t know how, but it has to be a bad i7 processor now, right? Thought and opinions are much needed.....
 
Remove the CPU and check the motherboard for bent pins. Also, don't rule out the possibility of bent pins on either end of the display cable. Trying a different cable may be the answer, or trying a different output, ie, VGA instead of HDMI or reverse. Make sure the monitor actually is showing display capability with another system as well. Just because it did previously, does not mean it is now. This system worked before at some point too, but now it isn't, and the display or cable may be the issue.



If there are no bent pins on the motherboard and no obviously burnt or discolored spots on any of the CPU contacts, then try doing a hard reset of the BIOS. If you try to use the CPU integrated graphics, make sure the graphics card is completely removed from the system and that the display cable is connected to the proper output on the motherboard.

If you try to use the graphics card, make sure the display cable is connected to the graphics card, not the motherboard, and that it is installed ONLY in the primary x16 slot, which is the longest slot that is closest to the CPU socket.

Once you are ready with the system set up the way you want it, or if one way fails to work and you are trying the other way, do the following.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If none of that works, then it is likely you have a dead motherboard or something is not connected correctly.

Be sure to check, and double check, ALL of the following.

 
Mar 31, 2019
3
0
10
Remove the CPU and check the motherboard for bent pins. Also, don't rule out the possibility of bent pins on either end of the display cable. Trying a different cable may be the answer, or trying a different output, ie, VGA instead of HDMI or reverse. Make sure the monitor actually is showing display capability with another system as well. Just because it did previously, does not mean it is now. This system worked before at some point too, but now it isn't, and the display or cable may be the issue.



If there are no bent pins on the motherboard and no obviously burnt or discolored spots on any of the CPU contacts, then try doing a hard reset of the BIOS. If you try to use the CPU integrated graphics, make sure the graphics card is completely removed from the system and that the display cable is connected to the proper output on the motherboard.

If you try to use the graphics card, make sure the display cable is connected to the graphics card, not the motherboard, and that it is installed ONLY in the primary x16 slot, which is the longest slot that is closest to the CPU socket.

Once you are ready with the system set up the way you want it, or if one way fails to work and you are trying the other way, do the following.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If none of that works, then it is likely you have a dead motherboard or something is not connected correctly.

Be sure to check, and double check, ALL of the following.

Bent pins in the socket. Now I have to watch YouTube videos on how it’s so simple to fix. I already tried and I need a super strong magnifying glass.
 
I figured that's what it was, which is why I listed that first. It USUALLY is in these kind of situations. Probably about 80-20%. Sucks, but at least you know. Next time, come see me or one of the other mods or veteran members BEFORE you buy anything. Could have saved yourself some money not buying things that weren't needed and put it towards a new motherboard if you end up having to get one. Well, a new USED one anyhow, since it's unlikely you'll find any new old stock that's reasonably priced enough to not make just going with a whole new system look a lot more appealing.

Hopefully you can fix the pin bed, but I wouldn't bet the house on it. The pin bed assembly IS often fixable, but equally often there is too much damage OR even just ONE pin that is broken below the level of where you can actually do anything about it, and the board has to be replaced. Either way, at least you found the issue and hopefully you can fix it. High powered reading glasses + a normal magnifying glass, both of which you can get from Walmart for less than five bucks, are what I usually use in these situations.

Or at least I used to. Two years ago I bought one of these from Harbor freight, and this is what I use for any delicate work now that requires magnification.

You can get one for about 20 bucks if you find and print one of the 20% off coupons or if you get them in the mail.

https://www.harborfreight.com/desktop-magnifying-lamp-60642.html