Question no signal following gpu upgrade - same issue since with original gpu

Dec 1, 2019
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Hi, really hoping someone can help. I've already gone through all similar posts about this issue but can't make any progress and backtracking hasn't helped.

I've recently upgraded my GPU from an nvidia 1060 6gb to palit rtx 2070 super jetstream. at the same time, i swapped out my 8gb of ram for 16gb corsair vengeance rgb.

booted up, the ram lights triggered doing a rainbow effect, so believed them to be seated properly, and the gpu lit up and the fans started spinning, so believed that to be seated properly also.

yet.... no signal to monitor using HDMI.

I've seen people saying a BIOS update should sort it out, yet here's my new problem...

I took out the new ram and put one 4gb stick of my old ram back in to see if that sorted it out. same issue.

i then put the new ram back in and swapped my gpu over for my old one so that i could check my bios and see if i needed an update (which I don't believe I do in all fairness, sure I checked not too long back and there hadn't been an update for years), yet I'm still getting no signal.

there's a hdmi slot in my mobo which i tried and still got no signal (this was with a gpu plugged in mnd, yet to test with it removed).

what could i have done wrong here? i was careful to flush out any remaining power and ground myself when i was swapping the components.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

my specs for reference

intel i5 8400
asus prime h310-plus
kolink core series 600w 80 plus certified

original gpu and ram

Geforce GTX 1060 OC 6144MB GDDR5
Team Group Vulcan T-Force 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 PC4-19200C14 2400MHz Dual Channel

my new ram is ddr4 also but 3600mhz which i know is more than my mobo can utilise but read it'll just cap it at the mobo's threshold.

again, any advice, greatly appreciated! going crazy here.
 
Dec 1, 2019
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wasn't very clear so thought i'd add, i don't get the screen where you can launch bios. have no signal immediately after switching the pc on
 
Dec 1, 2019
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first off, very speedy response. thanks so much for the help.

secondly, nope and nope... i will do tomorrow but it's late now and i've been working on this all day. gotta be up early for work.

i've seen this posted elsewhere but don't understand how cables make a difference when it was working this morning before i started tinkering? not refuting this, just curious how that works.

but yeah, i'll try this tomorrow. can connect my ps4 to it
 

delaro

Splendid
Ambassador
first off, very speedy response. thanks so much for the help.

secondly, nope and nope... i will do tomorrow but it's late now and i've been working on this all day. gotta be up early for work.

i've seen this posted elsewhere but don't understand how cables make a difference when it was working this morning before i started tinkering? not refuting this, just curious how that works.

but yeah, i'll try this tomorrow. can connect my ps4 to it
That is the simplest thing to try and always a possibility.

The bad news is if that doesn't work then it's most likely the power supply, from Kolink only the Continuum series are any good. What you can do is remove the GPU, move the HDMI cable to the motherboard and attempt to boot off the IGPU of the I5.
 
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Dec 1, 2019
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That is the simplest thing to try and always a possibility.

The bad news is if that doesn't work then it's most likely the power supply, from Kolink only the Continuum series are any good. What you can do is remove the GPU, move the HDMI cable to the motherboard and attempt to boot off the IGPU of the I5.
Thanks again.

So would that mean my psu is dead now with the fact my old card no longer works?
 

DSzymborski

Champion
Moderator
Thanks again.

So would that mean my psu is dead now with the fact my old card no longer works?
It's likely, but this is part of testing. It's not a very good quality PSU and a poor choice even for your initial parts. Delaro's 100% correct. Kolink's Continuum series, made by Sirfa/Sirtec are solid PSUs, but the "Core" series is not, based on an ancient design from hec. It's not even really a 500W power supply; the max load on the +12V rail is a hair under 400W.

Replacing the PSU is the next step of diagnosing the issue; it's not necessarily the final destination, unfortunately. It's just that when there's any power-related problem and there's a low-quality power supply in the mix, one of the things that is necessary is getting it out of the equation. Which is another good reason to have a power supply that matches your components/investment!
 
Reactions: corpious
Dec 1, 2019
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It's likely, but this is part of testing. It's not a very good quality PSU and a poor choice even for your initial parts. Delaro's 100% correct. Kolink's Continuum series, made by Sirfa/Sirtec are solid PSUs, but the "Core" series is not, based on an ancient design from hec. It's not even really a 500W power supply; the max load on the +12V rail is a hair under 400W.

Replacing the PSU is the next step of diagnosing the issue; it's not necessarily the final destination, unfortunately. It's just that when there's any power-related problem and there's a low-quality power supply in the mix, one of the things that is necessary is getting it out of the equation. Which is another good reason to have a power supply that matches your components/investment!
Ty for this. Psu really isn't up to scratch then. Saw 550 recommended.

I really didn't want to have to change the psu, seems so complex but I'll take the plunge if I have to. I'll at least test the monitor and another cable later today.
 
Dec 1, 2019
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It's likely, but this is part of testing. It's not a very good quality PSU and a poor choice even for your initial parts. Delaro's 100% correct. Kolink's Continuum series, made by Sirfa/Sirtec are solid PSUs, but the "Core" series is not, based on an ancient design from hec. It's not even really a 500W power supply; the max load on the +12V rail is a hair under 400W.

Replacing the PSU is the next step of diagnosing the issue; it's not necessarily the final destination, unfortunately. It's just that when there's any power-related problem and there's a low-quality power supply in the mix, one of the things that is necessary is getting it out of the equation. Which is another good reason to have a power supply that matches your components/investment!
Recommendation wise then, should I try out this Continuum series or sort something else? Also what wattage would you recommend if the wattage stated isn't what you actually get in some cases?
 
Dec 1, 2019
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right, progress. the ram appears to be the culprit, but too scared to put the new gpu back in after what you guys have said about the psu.

putting both old sticks of ram back in instead of just one (imagine i used the wrong slot for just 1 stick) gave me a display signal, which showed the following message -

this system has posted in safe mode.
This may be due to the previous POST attempt failing because of system instability, or if the power button was held in to force the system off (which btw i've been doing when i've been getting no display. simply pressing the power button once wasn't powering the system down).
If the system failed to POST after you made changes to UEFI settings, you may wish to revert to stable settings to prevent POST failure.

so from this, i can at least deduce that the ram alone caused the issue. why would this be? as i said before, my mobo can only use 2666mhz and the new ram is 3600mhz, but i read that it doesn;t matter as the mobo will just cap it at 2666. is this correct? as apparently it isn't unless something else with the ram is amiss.

i'll be sorting out a new psu before i go back to installing the new gpu, so would welcome recommendations as i don't really know what im looking for.

one more thing of note, when i wasn't getting a display signal, i also noticed that the leds on my keyboard weren't lighting up, so does that indicate the mobo wasn't posting from the start, before i'd held down the power button?

thanks again for all the help so far.
 
Dec 1, 2019
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also! just found something interesting posted by overclockers, who i bought my original build from.

We use Kolink heavily in our systems and they've proven to be more reliable than some of the Superflower, Corsair and BeQuiet models that we have used in the past and a lot more reliable than XFX that we used briefly last year.

I'm yet to experience anything that makes me doubt their quality and, since I know the guy who designs them and I know how much he knows about PSUs, I don't expect to either.

The reason why they are so competitively priced is because we've been able to cut out a couple of the middle men that usually take their cut on the more recognised retail brands.
 
Dec 1, 2019
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also! just found something interesting posted by overclockers, who i bought my original build from.

We use Kolink heavily in our systems and they've proven to be more reliable than some of the Superflower, Corsair and BeQuiet models that we have used in the past and a lot more reliable than XFX that we used briefly last year.

I'm yet to experience anything that makes me doubt their quality and, since I know the guy who designs them and I know how much he knows about PSUs, I don't expect to either.

The reason why they are so competitively priced is because we've been able to cut out a couple of the middle men that usually take their cut on the more recognised retail brands.
sorry i ran out for a drink but meant to follow up on this. i think the psu is perfectly fine for a 1060 which is why they bundle them with mid tier machines but saw a post from the manufacturer talking about how they moved on to working with hec which ties in with what you've said. looks like 1060 is their limit where they remain reliable, so yeah, if you have a recommendation for my spec i'd appreciate it.
 
Dec 1, 2019
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It's likely, but this is part of testing. It's not a very good quality PSU and a poor choice even for your initial parts. Delaro's 100% correct. Kolink's Continuum series, made by Sirfa/Sirtec are solid PSUs, but the "Core" series is not, based on an ancient design from hec. It's not even really a 500W power supply; the max load on the +12V rail is a hair under 400W.

Replacing the PSU is the next step of diagnosing the issue; it's not necessarily the final destination, unfortunately. It's just that when there's any power-related problem and there's a low-quality power supply in the mix, one of the things that is necessary is getting it out of the equation. Which is another good reason to have a power supply that matches your components/investment!
sorry to chase a response mate but want to get this sorted.

do you know the answer to my ram related question? is running 3600mhz ram with a mobo that caps at 2666mhz a problem? or is my ram dead?

also, any recommendations for a psu? price fluctuates so much with corsair 650w and i don't understand what the difference between them is.
 
Dec 1, 2019
11
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That is the simplest thing to try and always a possibility.

The bad news is if that doesn't work then it's most likely the power supply, from Kolink only the Continuum series are any good. What you can do is remove the GPU, move the HDMI cable to the motherboard and attempt to boot off the IGPU of the I5.
sorry to chase a response mate but want to get this sorted.

do you know the answer to my ram related question? is running 3600mhz ram with a mobo that caps at 2666mhz a problem? or is my ram dead?

also, any recommendations for a psu? price fluctuates so much with corsair 650w and i don't understand what the difference between them is.
 

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