Question No Signal to Monitor with no (intentional) changes

Jan 31, 2020
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Before anything, I want to ensure all of you that yes, I have tried everything on the troubleshooting checklist prior to creating this post (checklist: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq...deo-output-troubleshooting-checklist.1575220/)

Hello, and thanks for opening the thread. Let me give a quick summary of how the problem started, and what I've tried:

I have not made any physical changes to the computer - it's worked fine for the past few months (the last time being this exact same problem), and I haven't had the need to make any replacements or adjustments. I attempted to turn it on today after using it last night, and was met with a no signal to monitor message. I'm completely out of ideas, but I am sure that there are people who know more about computers than me on here!

What I have tried thus far:
  • Unplugging and replugging both monitors back in.
  • Only booting with one monitor plugged in (attempted both).
  • Replacing the HDMI cable with an identical one (attempted both).
  • Attempted to use both a VGA and DVI cable separately with one of my monitors.
  • Attempted to use on-board video after removing my graphics card.
  • Removed each stick of RAM and booted the computer, testing both pieces of RAM and each of my four RAM slots individually.
  • Removed my graphics card and put it back into place.
  • Inserted my graphics card into a different slot on my motherboard.
  • Removed my CMOS battery and waited 5 minutes, along with holding the power button for 30 seconds.
  • Removed my PSU and substituted it with a different one (along with then doing a RAM/RAM slot test again).
  • Shorted the CMOS jumper while the system was both off and unplugged (this solution has worked for this problem in the past).
Computer Specs:
  • Windows 7 OS
  • MSI Z97 Gaming 5 Motherboard
  • GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC 4G Graphics Card (**Note, this graphics card does NOT have a power port in it and only receives power from the motherboard!)
  • Intel Core i7 Processor
  • Corsair H60 CPU Cooler
  • BFG Ex-1000 1000W Power Supply
  • Seagate BarraCude ST2000DM008 2TB Hard Drive (Note: does not contain OS or display drivers)
  • Samsung 850 EVO Solid State Drive (Contains OS & drivers).
  • 8 GB DDR3 PNY RAM stick (x2)







 

R_1

Expert
Ambassador
step 17 any beeps at all? need a speaker?
canned diagnostic speaker rant: speaker making 101
The diagnostic speaker is the motherboards main diagnostic feedback device.
the motherboard may be telling you where the problem is.
my speakers have this plug

I use lamp wire but any stranded wire will do. literally any stranded wires. strip one end like so

attach the stripped end into the speaker spring clips on the speaker.
the other end of the wire should be trimmed like so the semi strip
cutwire.png

by doing a semi strip the wire case is now the socket.
plug one wire to the first pin, and the second onto the fourth pin.
power on the system and listen for beeps
end canned rant

try to force a beep code. remove all the RAM and try to boot, the motherboard should beep heartily and give the NO RAM boot code. if you cannot force a beep code in this way look to the motherboard as the issue.
 
Jan 31, 2020
4
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step 17 any beeps at all? need a speaker?

try to force a beep code. remove all the RAM and try to boot, the motherboard should beep heartily and give the NO RAM boot code. if you cannot force a beep code in this way look to the motherboard as the issue.

I knew I forgot something! Yes, I do have a speaker, but I cannot force a beep code. I also have an LED for my motherboard, and it only displays 00. See attached for both.

View: https://imgur.com/a/Bo6NJLR
 

R_1

Expert
Ambassador
the fact that you cannot force a beep code is not good, my experience means the mobo is borked.
take the system out of the case and breadboard it. make sure nothing is shorting out the case and the motherboard. boot with just the basics. keyboard, GPU, RAM and CPU. see if you can get into the BIOS/get a boot. try moving the RAM to the other slots while you have the system out and breadboarded.
 
Jan 31, 2020
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I fixed it!

For those who come across this thread later with similar issues, here was what was wrong:

Upon removing my liquid cooling from my CPU, I found a copious amount of thermal paste around the surrounding area. Using many Q-Tips, I cleaned the area, the excess off the liquid cooling connecting area, and the top of the CPU. Just to make sure though, I removed my CPU from its socket on the motherboard, and found that thermal paste had also gotten underneath and was between the motherboard CPU socket and the CPU itself (!). After cleaning it all up, my computer is back and operational.

This also fixed my motherboard speaker, along with my aforementioned problem.