Question Old Reliable suddenly overheating hard

[JamesR66]

Hi My PC, which i built with advice from this forum 12 years ago, has suddenly started overheating super hard with no obvious software or hardware changes. It went from like a bsod every 4 months or so to 20 in a day over the weekend. I have cleaned the case (i run it no panels anyway) and replaced the thermal paste on the CPU Cooler (stock intel, never overclocked it). Still sucks, but a little bit less.

Under even modest loads with any kind of game, I see temps quickly in the 105 range and a crash. I am using Speccy to monitor it. Any cheap elegant solutions offered? I'm thinking about trying a water cooler. This thing went from a rock to barely functional. HALP!



Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5 3570K @ 3.40GHz 67 °C
Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 799MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Pro4 (CPUSocket) 28 °C
Graphics
S24B20/S24B30 (1920x1080@60Hz)
Intel HD Graphics 4000 (ASRock)
ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (MSI) 34 °C
CrossFire Disabled
Storage
223GB ATA KINGSTON SV300S3 SCSI Disk Device (SATA (SSD)) 25 °C
1397GB ATA ST31500341AS SCSI Disk Device (SATA ) 33 °C
Optical Drives
TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-224BB SCSI CdRom Device
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

 

[rgd1101]

cpu fan working?

 

[JamesR66]

yes it seems to be spinning visibly and to spec
Instructions MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, Intel 64, NX, VMX, AES, AVX
Virtualization Supported, Enabled
Hyperthreading Not supported
Fan Speed 2045 RPM
Bus Speed 100.0 MHz
Stock Core Speed 3400 MHz
Stock Bus Speed 100 MHz
Average Temperature 88 °C

 

[Eximo]

CPU could be faulty. I had a similar thing happen to an AMD CPU ages ago. Still works perfectly fine, but must have developed some internal short that consumes a lot of power, but not enough to cause instant shutdown.

Getting another i5 or i7 to test with shouldn't be too expensive, but if you are going down that route, might as well get a new motherboard while you are at it.

i7-4790

Intel Core i7-4790 3.60GHz Quad Core LGA1150 CPU Dekstop Processor SR1QF 4th Gen | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Intel Core i7-4790 3.60GHz Quad Core LGA1150 CPU Dekstop Processor SR1QF 4th Gen at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

H97 Motherboard

ASUS H97M-E LGA 1150 DDR3 microATX motherboard (F2-4) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ASUS H97M-E LGA 1150 DDR3 microATX motherboard (F2-4) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

This lets you keep your DDR3 memory. But if you are interested, a brand new DDR4 CPU/Motherboard/RAM isn't too much more.

 

[Bob.B]

Hi My PC, which i built with advice from this forum 12 years ago, has suddenly started overheating super hard with no obvious software or hardware changes. It went from like a bsod every 4 months or so to 20 in a day over the weekend. I have cleaned the case (i run it no panels anyway) and replaced the thermal paste on the CPU Cooler (stock intel, never overclocked it). Still sucks, but a little bit less.

Under even modest loads with any kind of game, I see temps quickly in the 105 range and a crash. I am using Speccy to monitor it. Any cheap elegant solutions offered? I'm thinking about trying a water cooler. This thing went from a rock to barely functional. HALP!



Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5 3570K @ 3.40GHz 67 °C
Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 799MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Pro4 (CPUSocket) 28 °C
Graphics
S24B20/S24B30 (1920x1080@60Hz)
Intel HD Graphics 4000 (ASRock)
ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (MSI) 34 °C
CrossFire Disabled
Storage
223GB ATA KINGSTON SV300S3 SCSI Disk Device (SATA (SSD)) 25 °C
1397GB ATA ST31500341AS SCSI Disk Device (SATA ) 33 °C
Optical Drives
TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-224BB SCSI CdRom Device
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

Look close at the cpu cooler fins over time they can get packed with crud.

 

[JamesR66]

Look close at the cpu cooler fins over time they can get packed with crud.

Yeah i blew that all out with compressed air and it looks all unobstructed... The temps are getting steadily worse today and it's hitting 99c during boot phase. I think new cpu might be the minimum answer just need to get one with the right socket and a good cooler.

 

[thestryker]

Getting an inexpensive tower cooler would really be your best first step depending on availability where you live. A lot of them are very good and worst case scenario you could easily carry it on to a new build.

 

[Karadjgne]

What does the blue screen say?

 

[JamesR66]

What does the blue screen say?

It's usually 000000124 l, 7028 and 142. Pc goes right to 105 now and crashes every time. I bought a new cpu, wrong socket (oops followed advice here and messed up checking) anyone want a i7 4770 1150 socket? I need 1155 crap.

 

[faalin]

Replace the stock cooler with an aftermarket one, that cooler is 11 years old and the push pins that lock the cooler in place do not hold the cooler like they did when new.

Even a cheep Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO will be light years ahead of the stock intel cooler

​

 

[Karadjgne]

Hyper212 isn't that cheap anymore, it's $40+ generally. Thermalrite Assassin 120 King is $20 Amazon. So is BeQuiet PureRock 2 Slim. The 3570k doesn't pull that much wattage unless it's up closer to 4.6+GHz, and even then it's still not a lot, barely over 100w.

Stop 124 is a hardware error, Stop 7028 is a driver error, Stop 142 is a time server error and Stop 105 is an install printer error (wifi?) . Most of that points to probably an issue with whatever you are using for internet hookup. It's possible it's the cpu and how it's receiving the data or dealing with the drivers, but also possible it's the motherboard or add in internet card.

 

[geofelt]

The stock cooler needs to be mounted properly.
See my canned instructions at the end.
Check that all 4 pushpins are through the motherboard and locked.
The cooler should not wiggle.
When pressing down on the push pins, you need to do a diagonal pair simultaneously; otherwise the cooler will not seat level.
Look at the cpu temperature at idle when nothing else is going on. You should see15-20c. above ambient.
Much more is an indication of a flawed mount.

What is the make/model of your case?
I ask because good replacement coolers need 160mm.

Do not even think about an aio cooler.

A simple tower type cooler with a 120mm fan will be hugely better.
Hyper 212 used to be the cheap go to cooler.
I found it difficult to mount properly.
A cooler like this is cheap:

https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-01P6-00014

If you are planning on a cpu upgrade in the future, a Noctua nh-U9s is a top quality unit:

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9s/p/N82E16835608067?Item=9SIAADY44C5770

----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.
Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.
When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.
If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, first run the cpu to heat it up and soften the paste before shutting down and powering off the pc. That makes it easy to unstick the old cooler.
Turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.

It is hard to use too little.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[geofelt]

Some time ago, I experimented with adding a cheap 6450 card to offload the gaming graphics card.
Abandoned the effort; no performance difference in gaming and the image quality of the cheap card was poor.
Past that, the performance of the included HD4000 cpu graphics is superior.
Consider abandoning the HD 6450.

 

[JamesR66]

Thanks for all the help! I have bought a couple sticks of ram too. I will install the cooler very carefully per that guide on the new cpu and if not pick up a tower cooler. And dumping the graphics card seems fine too.

I am considering making this an ubuntu box since Windows 7 is getting more and more obsolete...

 

[JamesR66]

I went ahead and checked the motherboard cooler holes from the back. Fortunately my case has visible back access to the CPU so i didn't need to dismount the Mobo. Guess what one pin wasn't seated! Reseated it and carefully got them all locked in, I'm looking at a healthy and happy 50c right now without a CPU change. That feels very good!

 

[geofelt]

I went ahead and checked the motherboard cooler holes from the back. Fortunately my case has visible back access to the CPU so i didn't need to dismount the Mobo. Guess what one pin wasn't seated! Reseated it and carefully got them all locked in, I'm looking at a healthy and happy 50c right now without a CPU change. That feels very good!