Question Onboard Header Compatibility with Motherboard

Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
I need help with connecting Onboard Headers to my chassis. This is my first pc build and I am using the ASRock B450M Pro 4 (MOBO) and the NZXT H510 (Case). I am not getting the system to turn on from the power on switch on the top of chassis and I believe it is due to these connectors. If anyone could assist me with connecting them properly, please let me know. I attached pictures with this post to show the onboard headers, the connector pins that come with the case that was prewired to the case, and the parts in the manual for both the mobo and the case where it tries to tell me what to do. Thank you for your help, I would really appreciate it.

Full PC Build:
Ryzen 5 1600 AF
ASRock B450M Pro 4
16GB DDR4 3200Mhz
GTX 1650 Super SC
Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD
Seagate Barracuda 250GB SSD
EVGA 600W BR
NZXT H510

View: https://imgur.com/a/0EV9BVc

View: https://imgur.com/a/ydCBgdM

View: https://imgur.com/a/JwIwkVT

View: https://imgur.com/a/dqnbe7p
 
is a pretty standard setup that you are showing.
power button, reset button / power & HD LEDs.

if you are connecting them properly and they are not functioning; either the case or the motherboard is not operating correctly.

if you are having trouble figuring how they should be connected; show it in an image and we can correct your problem.
 

RodroX

Commendable
Aug 4, 2019
1,299
371
1,340
56
That pink paper diagram seems correct to me.

Did you plugged all the power cables to the motherboard? (ATX 24 PIN and the 8 PIN)
Are this cables fully pushed towards the motherboard?

Is you PSU turned ON, it should have a small switch on the back?

What else is installed to the motherboard, CPU, RAM, Storage, GPU?
 
Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
I originally thought that my issue was with the PSU which turns out to be working perfectly fine. The 24 pin ATX connector is plugged in along with the 8 pin CPU connector. I jump-started my PSU using the paper clip method, and it turned on completely normally. I tested for electrical current in the 24 pin ATX connector, and that cable was receiving current. With this being said, I still am not receiving any power to the system when pressing the power button when everything is connected and plugged in. This is what is leading me to believe that the problem lies in the positioning of these connectors since the cables that are prewired in the case are somewhat different than the onboard headers on my motherboard (I don't have a reset switch). I have a Ryzen 5 1600 AF installed with the stock cooler, 16GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200Mhz, a 250GB Seagate Barracuda SSD and a 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD, and an EVGA GTX 1650 SUPER SC Ultra installed to the motherboard.
 

RodroX

Commendable
Aug 4, 2019
1,299
371
1,340
56
Well, thats a lot of new information ok.
Then what I would do is try and shortcut the power button pins on the motherboard. Just put a small flat screwdriver head on the two pins (you already know pretty well which pins are) and if everything is ok the system should turn on.

Just be carefull not to shortcut anything else near the system panel header.

(If you wana turn it OFF, in case Windows is not installed yet, you should shortcut the pins one more time.
 
Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
That did not work. We are now connecting another verified power supply that we know works to see if we can get it to turn on. If not, I have a feeling it is the motherboard.
 
Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
I have tried flipping the cable upside down and there was still no response. I just attached another power supply to the motherboard and was getting no response when turned on. I used the paper clip trick on this other power supply and it turned on perfectly fine. I'm starting to think that it is both the motherboard and power supply that are faulty. That would be my luck.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
It's not the psu. Those front panel pins get power from the motherboard, which gets its power from the psu via the 24pin connector. Eps is a direct link to the cpu, so not involved.

The post-it is correct. You should be able to short the top-right 2 pins ( #3/#4) and turn the system on. If not, then pin #3 on top (from r to l) and pin #3 on bottom row.
 
Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
I have tried shorting both sets of pins you just described and I still am getting no response. I have a feeling that this motherboard is faulty. I retested the power supply and I am now getting a response using the paper clip trick, I think the reason I wasn't getting a response previously was because I did not have the paper clip ends far enough into the 24 pin connector.
 

Paperdoc

Glorious
Ambassador
The connections in your pink note are WRONG! See your mobo manual p.27.
PLED + and - you have correct.

HDLED you may have correct. The photo of its connector does not show any label for the + and - on it, and polarity is important for this one. HOWEVER, if you plug it in backwards, it will do no damage - the LED just will never light up, Once you get your system working, if you find that LED never lights, just unplug this and flip it over.

Your diagram says you have plugged the PWR SW pair into the top third and fourth pins from the left. But the manual says you need to orient that connector VERTICALLY on the upper and lower pins of the third column from the left. Polarity is NOT an issue for this one - it is just a momentary-contact switch and it works no matter which way you turn it.

Your photos do not show another very similar connector for the RESET SWITCH, but you should have one. It also is turned vertically and plugs into the fourth column from the left. Again, polarity does not matter for this one.

That will leave one unused pin at the bottom right of the header.
 
Apr 21, 2020
20
0
10
0
My case did not include a RESET connector. I have flipped the POWER SW connected vertically onto the third row of pins and am still getting no response from the computer when turned on via power button.
 

Paperdoc

Glorious
Ambassador
I am presuming that you have turned on the switch on the back of the PSU.

One mistake common in firt builds is not getting the positions right for the case stand-offs. If you know all about that and have done it properly, ignore this. But if you need details of what to check and how, post back.
 

Paperdoc

Glorious
Ambassador
OK. Stand-offs come with your case, and are used to create a space between the bottom of your mobo and the metal mounting plate under (behind) it. Generally they look like little brass pieces about ¼" long with a threaded shaft sticking up on one end, and a threaded hole in the other.

A mobo has several mounting holes - typically nine in three rows of three. You put screws through these holes into the stand-offs, and that is the support for the mobo. But if you look closely at those holes, you will see little metal "fingers" around each mounting hole like a flower. The fingers and screws provide a Ground connection from the mobo to the case at these points, but there should NOT be any other contact from mobo to case.

Cases often arrive with most or all of their stand-offs pre-installed in threaded holes in the case back mounting plate, positioned to match the most common hole pattern in mobos. But some mobos use different mounting hole spots, and some cases do NOT have the stand-offs pre-installed so you must do that yourself. To allow for other patterns, the case back plate has many extra threaded holes for stand-offs. As the installer, you must examine the exact locations of the holes in the mobo, and then ensure that there is a stand-off installed in the proper location on the back plate to match each mobo hole. Ideally there should be one stand-off under each hole for best support of the mobo. But more importantly, there must NEVER be a stand-off where there is NO matching mobo mounting hole - such a metal piece under the mobo could create a short from a bottom trace to ground. Of course, NO stand-offs virtually guarantees there will be a short.

When you have installed the stand-offs you partially install the mobo and check very carefully that you do have the stand-offs and holes matched on every hole before installing the screws. Adjust any that are out of place before completing this phase.

Since you have already installed your components in the case, you may need to go backwards and actually remove the mobo mounting screws and remove the mobo, at least partially, so you can see and be SURE all the stand-offs are in correct positions before re-installing.
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS