Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (
More info?)
Thanks all for your thoughts on this, I realize that the hold coil is
working in all cases where it doesn't move at all or very little,
because I can catch and hold the ball during play.
I guess what I was trying to say is why don't all the flippers work
alike in the hold mode. As I mentioned before when I replaced the TIP
102 darlington transistor switch that grounds the flipper hold winding
it made a big difference in the test, in fact when I played a game today
to actually test the repair the flipper now hand normal power and could
make it up the ramp every time. Before the repair I could move it
manually halfway and the hold test would work the rest of the way.
That makes me think when the flipper is used in game play it's
activating both coils, and their combined strength give a healthy snap
to the ball. Naturally when it hits the EOS switch the power coil turns
off to prevent overheating.
I always thought of the darlington transistors as switching on and off/
hi internal resistance when off or direct short to ground when switched
on. It now seems that they can switch but still have some internal
resistance thus reducing current flow and the overall power of the flipper.
On my JD 3 of the 4 flippers work fine in the hold test only the upper
right needs a little help getting it going. The upper right flipper
works good in the game, but when I play my son's JD it's upper flipper
seems to work a little better(it passes the test) like when you do quick
2nd flip. So my take is perhaps the hold transistor on my JD might need
replacing. Which would make the hold test a valid test and if the
flipper doesn't move up on its own it needs board work.
As matter of reference I tested the NF board in my JD also to be sure
there weren't any mechanical issues in the flipper assembly causing
this. The lower left flipper worked with it's JD board installed during
the hold test, the NF board didn't until i put the tip102 in.
This makes me think the hold test is valid and a sign of flipper weakness.
I will try replacing the tip102 in the JD upper right flipper this
weekend and see if it fixes it failure in the hold test and let you know.
I welcome any other input.
There's nothing worse than a weak flipper!
Rich
adi@txpinball.com wrote:
> Hold can't raise the flipper on its own, too heavy. It might barely move,
> might indeed go all the way up, or might not move at all, I've seen all 3,
> so you (falsely) will assume it's bad, when in fact it's not. In that same
> test, go to it and when hold appears move it slightly up by hand (like the
> power part of the coil does in the game) and see if hold parts really holds
> it.
>
> If your hold was bad you will have a fast double flip (and after second flip
> the flipper will stay down until you press the button again, then double
> flip again, then down etc...) whenever you press that flipper button.
>
> Adi
> www.txpinball.com
>
>
> "Richard Young Sr." <rysr@optonline.net> wrote in message
> news:GPhFe.169$Kx6.117@fe12.lga...
>
>>Looking for other opinions on the WPC games with the Fliptronic boards.
>>They have a flipper coil pick ( #12) in the diagnostics tests section. I
>>was working on a No Fear with a weak left flipper, I ran the test and
>>the power stroke worked OK but the hold stroke did nothing. I tested a
>>couple other pins I have and had a similar response and their flippers
>>appear to work fine. I replaced the Darling hold transistor on the NF
>>board and it now the test works 3 out of 5 strokes on the no fear board.
>>
>>Has anyone else tried this test on some of their pins and do you think
>>the hold test is relevant?
>>
>
>
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