Oct 11, 2008
Just some general observations from your list...

That CoolerMaster case looks like a tough unit, more like a bomb proof enclosure than a case for a computer! Nice though. I like the large power button on it. With the PSU being at the bottom, I hope you have enough length to run the E-ATX 12V cable (the 8-pin cable for the CPU) from the bottom to the top left of the motherboard, did you check the length on this?

For burners, I usually stay away from Sony, they rarely provide firmware updates and DVD compatibility isn't the greatest. Personally I stick with Samsung or LG, Pioneer is a good brand as well.

The OCZ RAM you've selected, is that on the QVL for this P6T Deluxe/OC Palm edition board? I would check that, it helps IF you have problems and have to contact Asus, it's the first thing they'll hang up on you for, if your RAM isn't on their tested list.

This is purely personal choice, but is a 90-piece toolkit really necessary? For myself I have a Wiha screw-driver with six different bits on the end, pair of long nose pliers, flat sided snips, an Xacto knife and that's it. I've not found I need anything else.

Your Apevia fan, you likely chose that because its 120mm, blue LED and the CFM rating, but is this fan sleeve or ball bearing? I'm just thinking the life of the fan, a sleeve fan may not last as long, just something to consider.

The PSU choice, personally I'd get something with more of a name, like Seasonic, Corsair or PC Power and Cooling. A PSU (and motherboard) are the key components of your system, you want fluid and reliable power going through your system. I myself have a Seasonic and it's great, it cost me, but I'd rather pay a bit more for quality in this area.

For the thermal compound, personally I choose Noctua's NT-H1 as the full performance of it is apparant right away, rather than the 200-odd hour break-in period for Artic Silver 5. I suppose in the end they all perform more or less the same, 1 or 2 degrees difference is nothing.

Overall, nice system.


Mar 6, 2009
i would change power supply to corsair 1000hx
change heatsink to xigmatek thor's hammer or thermalright ultra extreme
aln is right you you don't need the kit
change thermal compound to the mx-2
also if your going to get a high end gpu then you might as well go with gtx 295 :p


Dec 24, 2008
I have some changes...

Ok now first the PSU. ABS Tagan BZ series PSU's are OK...but if you are spending that much money on a PSU, You should get something better. And do you really need that much power? I assume you are thinking of adding another GPU later down the road, but honestly unless you have something larger than 19x12 res, (ie a 30" monitor) I doubt you will need to add a second 4870x2. Here is what I would do and save a bundle of cash: The 850tx is more than enough for 1 4870x2, and if you need to add more GPU power later, you can just add a 4870 1gb for crossfire instead of a 4870x2, and the 850tx will be fine for that as well. If you really want two 4870x2's, then get this PSU instead, its higher quality:

And on the GPU...Do you need a 4870x2? what resolution are you going to play at? A GTX 285 is cheaper and will do fine on 19x12 res, you can get 33 FPS in crysis at that resolution according to this review (the human eye cannot see anything over 25fps anyway I don't think): If you just went with the GTX 285 I think you would be fine, it will save you money now because it consumes far less power than the 4870x2 and runs cooler too. The 850tx will handle 2 GTX 285's in SLI just fine if you need more GPU power in a year or so.

You picked a mediocre CPU cooler...these coolers are better:

Drop the tool kit, its totally unnecessary. All you need is a standard phillips screwdriver, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and maybe a pocket knife.

Any reason you picked the OC Palm edition? the LCD is cool, but its really not useful, unless you want to do some really high end OC'ing, for which you would want to get a watercooling system... I would just get this:

Get a different DVD Drive, LG or Samsung or Pioneer.

This thermal compound is non-conductive so you wont fry your mobo if you spill, no curing time, and cools just as well as silver 5