Cinebench isn't a steady state load and therefore is useless as a metric for determining thermal compliance. For stability, sure, it's useful as ONE tool among many, but for thermal compliance it's not an acceptable standard.
There are a few tools out there which ARE, but among them, the most acceptable one is Prime95 Small FFT, with or without AVX enabled depending on whether you tend to run AVX enabled games or applications and whether or not you have an AVX offset configured in the BIOS. Or even know how to do that.
For most people the standard policy would be to disable ALL of the AVX variants in the Prime95 options on the main torture test screen when you select Small FFT. For 95% of people that will be the right decision.
Your current temps are too high. For Ryzen 3000 series you do not want to see anything above 85°C MAXIMUM while under a full, steady state, all core load. You don't even list your CPU cooler. You're not overclocking using the stock cooler are you? If you are, you need to remove the OC until you have better cooling. You also don't indicate what case or what your case cooling solution looks like either. These are all important considerations if you are going to overclock the CPU or memory, and to some degree even your graphics card.
Another problem I see is that you are using a VERY low end power supply. The fact that it's only 550w, which barely meets the recommendation for an RX 580 equipped system with a stock configuration, says that for any kind of daily driver that you expect or would like to see last a while, this is a very bad idea. It's not good quality to begin with and when you pile on the additional demands of overclocking you are seriously shortening the lifespan of that PSU and possibly your other hardware as well since a highly taxed PSU, especially when it's not good quality, is bound to have more measurable problems with voltage regulation, ripple and signal noise. All of which can kill your hardware, a little bit at a time.
If you are using stock cooling and that power supply, I'd say you'd be wise to completely remove any OC until you have better cooling and a better quality power supply. Preferably one that's more like 650-750w AND is good quality. And by good quality, I don't just mean "Gold rated" or some well known name brand. It needs to be a MODEL that is known to be reliable and uses quality components inside, as well as having at least decent to preferably good build quality, soldering, etc. plus using a platform that allows for sufficient cooling. Performance is a major factor as well, and professional reviews are how we determine which models or platforms tend to have these things.
Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...
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PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...
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